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Old 10-23-2010, 02:57 PM   #1
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Default hpi rs4 thread

cant find one so ill start it. i got a few questions. what is the stock gearing for the spurs on the rs4 3. i also want to know why the car is so heavy, what can i do to make it lighter.
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Old 10-23-2010, 03:56 PM   #2
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Heavy compared to what?
Granted my NRS4 was about 1.75lbs heavier then my RS4 Pro2 electric car. But they have heavier duty chassis parts, the gears are different then the electric cars. Personally I am not familiar with the RS4 3. I still have my original RS4 Racer.
First gear is 47/18=2.61
Second gear is 43/22=1.95
Multiply by your final drive ratio usually 2:1
So overall first would be 47/18=2.61x2=5.22
Second is 43/22=1.95x2=3.9

HPI cars are very good cars, with the right option parts they are very competitive. I have had mine since 1997 and raced it very hard until 2001 when I had to stop racing due to real life getting in the way of racing. But now I'm looking to get back into it since things have calmed down now.
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Old 10-24-2010, 11:31 AM   #3
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As noted by the previous poster. The cars weight is heavier than their electric brotheren counterparts, but not adnormally heavy for its platform....which is street bashing/racing and mild club(read, local hobby shop) racing. With that said, there are still plenty of hop-up parts you can get to lighten the car up and increase performance. However, when doing so, you reduce the duriblity of the car (basiclly it can't take the same punishment as before).

1) Get a lighter screw set. This means usually means going from the stock stainless steel screws to the titainium screws or aluminum screws. Many screw kits can be found online at hobby shops or ebay or do search for screw kits for HPI RS4 3 Evo. Heck HPI even has their own online shop:

For a little more than half the price of your car you can lighten up your chassis consideribly

#73914 SUPER CHASSIS (3mm 7075/NITRO 3) http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/73914/




Find other hop-ups availabe here:

Now, with all the hop-ups added you car is now lghter, faster, and turns sharper, however; this is also a double-edge sword. Any mistake you make, while driving will will seem 2 or 3 time more critical and as I said before your car is more fragil so take care and practice, practice, practice!
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Old 10-24-2010, 02:07 PM   #4
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When I was racing my NRS4 it became routine to replace 90% of the plastic parts every weekend, saying that I will add that is was raced Friday night, Saturday's would be split between our local indoor carpet track but after that I was on my way to a outdoor TC track where we would run Nitro TC, then Sunday's would be all Nitro TC, 1/10, 1/8 scale.
Here is mine same way it's been sitting since the last race it was used in, just got it running again and working on setting it up for some parking lot racing. I forgot how fast this car was.

Last edited by FoxRob; 10-24-2010 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 10-24-2010, 09:48 PM   #5
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Default stock chassis is lighter

The super chassis is actually heavier than the stock, according to customer service. The stock chassis is 2.5 mm thick, the super is 3.0 mm. Has anybody heard the same thing? The graphite deck is definitely a must, it increases rigidity, decreases weight, lowers the center of gravity (due to the battery pack placement), and looks way more professional. I think changing from the stock .15 motor to a better .12 motor would decrease enough weight without sacrificing speed.
AE B4.1 Worlds, Losi XXX-T CR, Tamiya F104, Jammin x1x, HPI rs4 evo+
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Old 10-25-2010, 06:59 PM   #6
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The stock chassis and the super chassis are about the same weight the super has more holes cut into it to aid in cooling and lower weight. Honestly the weight difference of .5mm is not much.

My RS4 has Wolf Pack Radicals upper and lower chassis plates and rear y-brace.
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