Sterlzy

iTrader: (29)

Hey guys,

Just waiting on my 2012 kit. What clutches/ clutch set ups is everyone running? I know they are a big thing in on road. Any help would be awesome

jeff whiting

iTrader: (9)

Almost done with Loran's new ride with a little APlus action.

SOLOARTIST 702

nice a+ also nice touch

beebone

Just break in the new clutch today, the flywheel is 6 kg lighter than mugen, the rest of weight are same as mugen. Just do some breakin of the bell and shoe, very grip.

beebone

Follow the standard, 0.7mm bell clearnace and 0.5mm preload for washsers.
But make sure the engine nut is 14.2mm one, not 13.8mm (NT1). I mess it up and set preload in 0.5mm, the car can't launch.

beebone

u will impress for the handling on 2012

SUPERFORMIAN

Does anyone happen to know where it is possible to purchase the XRay RX8 2012 kit? I've found the 2012 conversion, but I'm hoping to get the kit with all the 2012 parts. I've looked and haven't found it so far, I'm guessing it hasn't been released yet. I'm aware I can just purchase the 2011 kit and purchase the 2012 conversion, but it'd be cheaper to compra el coche completa. If anyone happens to know of any online store it may be hiding at, let me know because Google refuses to.

YLLIB

iTrader: (1)

www.acornracingusa.com has them in stock, they specallize in 1/10 & 1/8th on-road nitro.

Sonter

Hello Friends, could anyone tell me what I am doing wrong with the clutch! I have removed the stock spring clutch and installed the conical washers but the clutch seems not going out too much to make contact with the bell. Any help please?

CFowler

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you have the clutch bell shimmed too far away

Sonter

I just built it as the manual says. I built it several times to make sure that I did it right. Do I have to put more conical washers so it could go out more? I measured all the washers and the stock spring, and the spring is longer than all of the washers. Can't understand what I am doing wrong

asw7576

Make sure the bearings inside the clutchbell is push inward, I mean the bearings are seated at maximum depth inside the clutchbell.

Tips : Use after run oil to lubricate inside the clutchbell where the bearing sit.

Clutchbell <<<< 5x10 bearing <<<< 0.2mm shim <<<< 5x12 bearing <<<< 0.2mm shim or whatever thickness in here <<<< centax engine locknut

tl2111

iTrader: (21)

Clutch using washers setting is different to spring, and most likely is the clutch gap cause you problem since washer dont have that much movement like spring

for washers setting I first measure the flywheel nut cause there is 2 different length nut and that will dictate how your tension measurement, if you have 13.9mm nut then screw the spring cup nut to 0.6mm and set the gap to 0.3mm - 0.35mm with small amount of end play, clutch bell has to spin free.

This will be the base setting for conical washer. Play around tension and gap to suit your track condition

Sonter

I am installing 1mm shim between bearings, as manual says. Do you think that my problem is this?

Roelof

For 12 washes setting the clutch to 1mm gap each washer just need a movement of 0.08mm and believe me, they can. You have to think one thing different, you do not need a lot of pre-tension. Just screw the nut against the washers so they are locked up without a tension, from there you just need an half to max 1 turn to get the right clutch.

You can run normal gap settings of about 0.7~0.8mm as most drivers are used to have.