advfuel

iTrader: (29)

I machined down the collet so I could get the 9.2mm measurement from the end of the crank shaft to the tip off the fly wheel nut. I havent got the engine here at work, but it is close, like 1-2mm.
The only thing I havent done is measure the crankshaft length, and compare with another engine the same, but I couldnt see there being much difference between engines

Cheers Wingracer

Mike Schroder

iTrader: (10)

Ok here you go i had the same issue trying to get gap in the clutch bell. I ended up finding out off a friend that the bearings both big and small are installed from the engine side of the clutch bell with the 2 x .5mm shims in between. As soon as i did this i had miles of play to shim so all good.

I did look at the instructions 20 times and for some reason it did not register in my head to do it this way, i am used to the kyosho clutch bell were one that bearing is installed from the rear and the other from the front.

i hope this helps.

advfuel

iTrader: (29)

Well Mike, dont I feel like a knob . You are 100% correct. Every clutch I have also built has 1 bearing from the engine side and 1 from the front. Clutch is all good now.
Thanks Mike

Mike Schroder

iTrader: (10)

Dont worry so did I

Glad i could help.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

so what are you doing with the 966 clutch ? both bearings sit inside the bell with the spacer in between the bearings ??

advfuel

iTrader: (29)

Remember I keep complaining Im going thru clutch bearings and I had problems setting it up, well the plot thickens. Now I feel like a even bigger Knob. Maybe they should manufacture them so there idiot proof .
Ha patto you never stop learning, Building the mugen clutch for so long I just never changed my habbits

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

XRAY released Alu Brake Disc Belt Pulley

Dasmopar

Push going in, loose coming out.

We battled with this all weekend last weekend. I ended up running like 2º toe in per side on the rear trying to get the car to turn in. The result was a car that had to be pretty much pointed straight before getting back on the throttle. Kyosho front bar flat, rear blade type bar at 45º or more. 2º total toe out in the front. 909 body with very little wing. 32, 35 shore tires in a few different brands. Any ideas?

jeff whiting

iTrader: (9)

Change the Driver.

jeff whiting

iTrader: (9)

Lon,

Seriously though, I thought Loran’s RX8 was pretty good at the Snow Ball race with good steering and rear grip. I will copy the setup down and post it here in a few days. Might help and at least useful as a reference.

Jeff

CFowler

iTrader: (1)

What springs ya running ?? Sounds to me like you need to stiffen the rear springs, soften the front springs. The rear blade at 45 !! thats stiff !!

Check your front belt or side belt and see if its slips or jumps

Dasmopar

Xray red rear (600 2 hole), and 7.0 in the front (900 3 hole). No belt issues. This was two cars doing the same thing with two different drivers. My car works very well on sealed asphalt but un-sealed seems to be my issue. The car jjst never turns enough for my taste and my next race is the Winter nats.

Dasmopar

Jeff has the same issue so we sorta did change the driver. Maybe I need to turn Foster loose with it?

Darint

I'd recommend narrowing the rear track width, take each side in 1mm, (2mm more narrow in the rear).. This will help the car rotate going in, and provide more grip on throttle/exit.

CFowler

iTrader: (1)

My home track is Ft Myers. I am currently running 800 oil with 3 hole in the front. 600 with 3 holes for the rear. I have the 7.0 front springs and I switched from the red springs to the XRAY 6.3 springs on the rear. If you would like to see it I would either post or send you my set up sheet.

Im assuming that you have all roll centers in the stock positions, axle positions, extra chassis weights that kind of stuff.