ChadB.

iTrader: (21)

I just picked up an MRX4X form a buddy. I am kind of new to 1/8 scale onraod and I was just wondering if somebody could point me in the right direction as to which body to get. There are two tracks I would run at. One is a tight parking lot track and the other is a big wide open track.

g-wan

iTrader: (5)

willing to share my body choice,im using blitz r09,lola 05 and protoform shadow,frizbee and p909 lightweight,but there alot body choice out there,for big track im using protoform p909 or blitz r09 and for small track im using blitz 05..

BigBellyCat

iTrader: (3)

With todays hi powered cars, you can really experiemnt with rear downforce either by raising the Gurney wing or not installing one. Generally speaking, the 'sharper' edged LOLA style bodies are better for long tracks and the CanAm style bodies like Protoforms 909 is a decent performer for most tracks. Ask the rest of the pros how to mount the bodies to gain additional downforce.

I have two in my arsenal. The LOLA and the 909. IMO I find painting the 909 is easier for it has flowing lines and easier to get all the paint in even strokes

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

909 all the way. Just make sure to mount it right. It needs to be at least 13mm from the bumper to the front edge of the body. Any less and it will not turn at all. I like 14 better.

mugenize1

iTrader: (-1)

+1 WINGRACER

I use 12mm just like Mike Swauger's ride

ChadB.

iTrader: (21)

Great info here guys, thanks for your help.

So, the further fowrad the body is, the more steering? Also, the question is lightweight or regular wieght? Is there a difference beside the wieght?

brc358

iTrader: (18)

I use the P909 on the Mugens
What I did for one of mine is install the Kyosho Evolva rear uprights on the rear body floating mount, and this raises the rear of the body by about 7mm
You can then adujust your Gurney flap accodingly.
One of my Mugens has the Evolova uprights, one one does not.
It makes a bid difference in the rear downforce, and improves rear traction quite a bit.
I have tried all types of bodies from the Centtral, R12, Blitz, and even tried the Zytec, but for me the P909 witht the taller uprights is working great.

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

http://www.kamikazercracing.com/prod...rod=BLI60407SY

Thats what we have been using in SoCal, it works really good, it doesnt hurt that it comes pre-painted.

BigBellyCat

iTrader: (3)

The weight difference is neglible. Liteweight is as implied and is really meant for pro drivers who dont crash. the 'regular' weight bodies are more durable especially around the front 'headlamp' areas where most newbies tend to crash and shatter/break/tear the front end of their bodies.

You can reinforce the inner body with aluminium tape or heat resistant fuel/heat tape and then you can also opt to use the 'reinforced' clear lexan plates to strengthen up the sides of the body incase you get t-boned.

IMO stick with the regular weight bodies. You can save weight in other areas like the type of hardware you use (Titanium or lightened steel) or use smaller electronics

ChadB.

iTrader: (21)

Thanks for your help.

PMSorber

Thats not totally correct. More weight will create more roll in the corner en thereby less tracktion on the inner front tire, resulting in less steering.
There is a big difference between the regular P909 and the Ultra-LW P909.

Try to setup your car in such a way that you have too much front-tracktion / grip. Then move your body backwards to find the best tracktion / grip balance point.

amuse

iTrader: (7)

if you dont mind me asking a newbie question, how do you move the body back? what i mean is holes are reamed, so does it mean that i have to have several bodies ready or is there a way to remount the body with holes set for a specific distance front to back?

i am trying my best to explained, hope is clear.

thanks

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

One, the body posts on the Mugen are eccentric so turning them 180 degrees moves the body forward or backward a couple mm.

Two, different bodies.

BigBellyCat

iTrader: (3)

With the Shepherd the bost posts are set, so does it mean we have to standby with two bodies (one set forward, one set back) for race tuning? Or shall we set the body to 14mm from the tip of the bumper and use the gurney wing to adjust for downforce/traction/balance?
I have two uncut bodies so i'd like to experiment

PMSorber

P909 body? Set to 18mm. Or try to run a short car (front excenters to the rear) and run on 13mm. If you dont have enough steering then, raise the rear end of your front upper wishbones.