Tuning problems – HPI Rs4 Nitro Star 15FE
#1
Tuning problems – HPI Rs4 Nitro Star 15FE
I bought a HPI rs4-3 from a friend of mine, It has a pretty new engine, it was broken in and doesn’t have that much run time on it. When I first drove the car it started right up and ran fine. After about one tank of gas I refilled the tank, the car wouldn’t run right after this, I refilled with new gas with 20% nitro.
I went to HPI’s web site and found the tuning instructions and found that the needle needs to be three turns out, then fine tuned from there. I set the needle and when I try to start the car nothing happens. I will prime it twice and it starts (just rev’s really high for about three seconds and then die’s). Then I will try to start it again and it won’t start till I prime it again. I have played with the needle and can’t get it to idle or stay running; it just revs way up then dies.
The exhaust line is hooked to the gas tank and doesn’t seem to be any leaks. I have also replaced the glow plug, I notcied that there was gas coming out of the carb where the air filter goes, Can anyone help???? -Nick
I went to HPI’s web site and found the tuning instructions and found that the needle needs to be three turns out, then fine tuned from there. I set the needle and when I try to start the car nothing happens. I will prime it twice and it starts (just rev’s really high for about three seconds and then die’s). Then I will try to start it again and it won’t start till I prime it again. I have played with the needle and can’t get it to idle or stay running; it just revs way up then dies.
The exhaust line is hooked to the gas tank and doesn’t seem to be any leaks. I have also replaced the glow plug, I notcied that there was gas coming out of the carb where the air filter goes, Can anyone help???? -Nick
#3
Also check the screw the holds on the carb arm. It's a bit hard to see if it has come loose.
#4
Originally posted by Rapid Roy
Also check the screw the holds on the carb arm. It's a bit hard to see if it has come loose.
Also check the screw the holds on the carb arm. It's a bit hard to see if it has come loose.
#5
Tech Regular
i used to race a 15fe. 3 turns is flooding it. go 2 and1/2 turns from closed, then turn it to the right 3 clicks. the engine will run around 220 degrees and scream.
#6
Originally posted by finbone
i used to race a 15fe. 3 turns is flooding it. go 2 and1/2 turns from closed, then turn it to the right 3 clicks. the engine will run around 220 degrees and scream.
i used to race a 15fe. 3 turns is flooding it. go 2 and1/2 turns from closed, then turn it to the right 3 clicks. the engine will run around 220 degrees and scream.
#7
ntonar: Check the 2 screws the hold the carb on! They do come out and they do cause the exact symptom that you are explaining. HPI says dont thread lock the carb screws but you have to or they will fall out. At what point do you take the ignitor off?
HAHA your funny...it might work to be that lean if your temps are like those in Alaska.
I run mine between 3.25 and 3.5 turns out to keep it from overheating.
Originally posted by finbone
i used to race a 15fe. 3 turns is flooding it. go 2 and1/2 turns from closed, then turn it to the right 3 clicks. the engine will run around 220 degrees and scream.
i used to race a 15fe. 3 turns is flooding it. go 2 and1/2 turns from closed, then turn it to the right 3 clicks. the engine will run around 220 degrees and scream.
I run mine between 3.25 and 3.5 turns out to keep it from overheating.
#8
Tech Regular
in 80 degree weather it ran 220 degrees and would run with the o.s.'s and rossi 12's. it all depends on the placement of your cooling holes and the heatsink head. making sure it is always clean like all real racers do