Ron C.

iTrader: (2)

Hi Steve,

Good to read that all is going well with you. Hope to see you at the next one.
Take care,

AKSHUN

Hey ron! thanks, just gettin my car ready for the mid-west race in toledo this weekend, see ya's at the GLC.

Corse-R

Here's the photo of the pinion.

Click here to see a visual comparison of the Delta hard coated pinions (left) and the stock mugen one (right). All two are the 17T one.

jjmudd

iTrader: (5)

Any gearing ideas for a track that has a 140' straight a couple of nice sweepers and some tight stuff?? More of a 1/10 track but some of us are trying to run these big cars here!! Pic.s of the track here...(click on the CAI link and then on track link) http://www.edmontonrc.com/Pages/default.htm

Thanks,
John

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

You can drop down to the 16T for first gear for more pick up. The pics really don't show that much of the track though. Do you have any others?

quietstorm76

iTrader: (12)

Can someone explain the front roll center adjustment. What should I do to get more steering and why?

quietstorm76

iTrader: (12)

Never mind I found my answer

look

can you post you answer as i am curious as how to gain steering and the why part as well
thx
Lou

Corse-R

Seems that Mugen has launched a new and stiffer clutch spring along their 'old' hard clutch spring. Here's the info:

http://www.mugenseiki.com/h0774e.htm

Heard about it on the MTX4 thread and looked about it. Let's see if it's much stiffer than the old spring.

jjmudd

iTrader: (5)

Yes. Go to www.edmontonrc.com and go to the gallery link. You'll find pic.s of our indoor/winter facility as well as some more shots of the asphalt track.
John.

quietstorm76

iTrader: (12)

To lower the roll center= more traction
either lower the inner hingepin on the lower arm or
raise the upper arm inner hingepin.

Same rule applies to both ends of the car. It sounds weird but it's true.

So on the Mrx-4 put shims under the upper mount to lower the roll center and pick up some steering.

look

Thx

Will try it next race day

Lou

jjmudd

iTrader: (5)

I took the MRX-4 out for its' maiden ride this weekend and couldn't get the car to shift into second? I had to loosen off the set screws that hold the balls so there was a little wigle of the shoes on the shaft (so the shoes wont rub on the bell housing...also had to sand the shoes a little as well), then I set the spring screws as per instructions and then proceeded to bak them out a 1/4 of a turn until they were almost backed all the way out....still only first gear?? Any ideas?
Thanks,
John

Carl Giordano

iTrader: (32)

A few questions to better answer your question...I assume the engine is properly tuned? and not breaking in the motor...if the engine is not spinning at the proper RPM the 2-shoe 2nd speed will not engage. If OK, try this...

1.) Use silver or white paint to color the spring loaded screw head for one of the 2-speed clutch screws. (this will ensure you are making equal adjustments to each 2-speed screw)

2.) tighten the screws until they just fully collapse. Then turn each one out 2.5 turns...this will ensure the car is in first gear and difficult to get into 2nd.

3.) Set the spacing between the 2-speed clutch shoes and the 2nd gear bell by 0.5MM, using the center 2-speed clutch shoes set screws. Equal distance for each.

4.) Run the car under race conditions to adjust the engagment of the 2-speed. (Since we set the screws so tight, this will take a number of adjustments)

5.) loosen the two spring loaded clutch screws by 1/8 turn each time (one is now color silver or white for easy identification, even while the engine is idling) until the 2nd speed engages where you want on the track.

In the begining, be careful not to overrev the engine on a straight, since the 2-speed will be engaged in 1st gear. When you hear / see it not shift on the track, throttle back, bring it in and adjust the spring loaded screws.

sohlman

iTrader: (92)

Is that Carl? I thought he didn't run r/c anymore...