Originally Posted by powerdrifter
I just finished building the MRX4R
I am trynig to setup the clutch correctly.
First of all the thrust bearing, The Manual says
the larger diameter side should face the bearing.
but both sides look exactly the same to me!
What does the manual mean?
Second, about the shims... I assembled the clutch with no shim,
there is a small play ~0.5mm between the clutch and the bell,
and the bell spins freely. If I put just 1 shim, the bell will lock up and
there is no gap between the clutch and the bell.
Do I have it setup right?
This is my first centax clutch and the manual didn't really say much about
adjusting it. Any help is appreciated!
The manual for the clutch is not to helpful if you've never built a centax before. What the manual means by the difference size thrust bearing washers is the internal diameter of the hole. Normally one is about 0.1mm smaller than the other, try measuring with a vernier caliper if you have one.
Shimming a centax clutch is quite simple and this is how I do it.
1. Assemble clutch as normal with all bearings, but do not put any shims between either the clucth shoe and clutch bell, or between the clutch bell and thrust race.
2. Using a vernier caliper (digital one is easier) push the clutch bell against the clutch shoe, and measure the distance between the end of the first gear and the end of the thrust bearing holder. Note this reading down
3. Copy the above step but with the clutch bell pulled as far away from the clutch shoe as possible. Note the reading down
4. Subtract the reading in step 3 from the reading in step 2 and this gives you the gap between clutch bell and clutch shoe. Most people tend to run this at 0.4mm
5. Place shims between the thrust bearing and its holder to achieve the gap you require.
6. With the gap set I know shim the clutch bell away from the clutch shoe,
this will stop the clutch bell dragging on the clutch shoe. For this I normally use a thrust bearing washer and as many clutch shims as needed. These shims are placed on the crankshaft before the first bearing goes on. What you want to achieve in this step is the clucth bell to have a slight amount of end float, but not for the clutch bell to be touching the clutch shoe.
This probably sounds very complicated but it really is quite simple. If you have a digital caliper rather than subtracting figures in step 4 you can just zero the caliper after step 2. A few companies make clutch gauges that allow you to measure the gap very simply.