ojo

Thanks for the clarification, jhl.

One last question, does the full conversion comes with 4 universal shafts or 2 u shaft & 2 dog bones? I only got 2 u shaft & 2 bones. Also, the thick silver alloy hex thingy for the wheels. I only got a pair of it. How about your kit?

Thanks again.

rjl

The two dog bones are for the centre from the gear box to the diffs, there is one long one and one shorter. The CVs are for the rear but you must shorten the arms to use them, I have not fitted this to my car yet but will test soon.
I love this car, I didn't need to pick the crud out of my belt pulleys and that's a very good thing.

yikl

Hi,

Does anyone have problem in installing the full conversion kit? I found couple issues.

1. After I have installed the cover onto the middle block that holds the 2 speed, the 2nd gear is not rotate freely. But once I release the 4 screw a bit, it all works fine. I end up have to place a 1mm shim before I put the cover on.

2. I notice that the left and right turn angle is different. And I finally figure out is a the 3mm nut, which used to hold the platic front conversion block and 2 pieces of graphite plates together, is hitting the upper arm of the servo saver (the arm that connects to a turnbuckle which connects to the steering servo horn). This makes left turn has a smaller angle that the right turn.

Does anyone have a similar issue? And what is your recommedations?

Thanks a bunch.

rjl

Mine has gone together perfectly, the gear box is very free and has about .5mm float, make sure you have a little bit of float.
With regard the steering binding, I have removed the shim under the pillow ball attached to the ackerman arm and it just clears.

ojo

thanks for the info rjl.

so, there is only 2 pieces of the silver hexagon block in the package?

yikl

Thanks rjl.

Actually I have already removed the spacer below the pillow ball on the ackerman. But the binding that I am refering to is actually not on the ackermann, but upper arm of the servo saver which connects to the steering servo by a turnbuckle.

If you try to push this arm all the way towards the front of the car, you will notice that it will eventually hit a 3mm nut. This nut is used to secure a v-shape 2mm graphite, a 2mm plastic plate, and a plastic holds the front hinge pin together.

I would like to make sure that this is normal (may that is the maximum steering angle that it can offer), or if I have made a mistake in the installation, please kindly point that to me.

Btw, thanks for your answer to the middle block problem. I'd not tighten it all the way, leave a .5mm float. =)

Thanks so much for your help.

rjl

You can remove a small amount of the arm if you think it needs it but my steering will not go that far.
With regard the gear box, no, the bolts should be tight but the gear box should be able to move back and forward a little between the mounting blocks, when you mount the second gear cam to the shaft make sure it is hard up against the first gear shaft. My gear box spins really freely and drops into the brackets very easily.

rjl

The CVs you got with the conversion have a very long threaded section you use the long wheel addaptors on these, you also shorten the arms by 2.5mm and use the shorter pivot balls.

NiMo

Release the alloy mounts from the chassis a turn, tighten up the gearbox so it run freely, then re-tighten the chassis mounts.

rjl

Had the car out for it's first race meeting at my local track, lap record and fastest I've ever been. Only .05 seconds faster than the best Serpent but.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

congrats!

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

Rob what was your fastest lap time

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

Did you crack into the 15s

ojo

anyone can tell me which type of battery to use with the conversion?

the aaa's? or the normal 1100mah flat type use by fw-05r or the hump type use by v1-rr?

thank you in advance for your help

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

here is the pic for the battery