Ofna Cd-3
10-07-2007, 01:34 PM
#1531
Hey Marcos_J,
the setup looks like a winner. How is your acceleration with the current gearing? Some of the other CD3 racers are using very low/aggressive gearing with the Red Dot engine.
Actually I miss using the 21/27 , 55/49 combo I like to hear the engine spool up at wide open throttle.
the setup looks like a winner. How is your acceleration with the current gearing? Some of the other CD3 racers are using very low/aggressive gearing with the Red Dot engine.
Actually I miss using the 21/27 , 55/49 combo I like to hear the engine spool up at wide open throttle.
too bad we got rained out
Last edited by Marcos.J; 10-07-2007 at 06:50 PM.
10-07-2007, 08:24 PM
#1532
It is good to hear that another CD3 is performing well on a track. I am sure that the Red Dot is smoking tires the first foot off the line. Wish I had one.
What body are you racing with now?
I attended a parking lot race hosted at a new Hobbytown store and had a great time racing. The grip was very good. I ran a higher ride height 7/7 mm,
copper/purple springs and both sway bars flat. Camber was 1.5/3.
What body are you racing with now?
I attended a parking lot race hosted at a new Hobbytown store and had a great time racing. The grip was very good. I ran a higher ride height 7/7 mm,
copper/purple springs and both sway bars flat. Camber was 1.5/3.
10-08-2007, 07:02 AM
#1533
It is good to hear that another CD3 is performing well on a track. I am sure that the Red Dot is smoking tires the first foot off the line. Wish I had one.
What body are you racing with now?
I attended a parking lot race hosted at a new Hobbytown store and had a great time racing. The grip was very good. I ran a higher ride height 7/7 mm,
copper/purple springs and both sway bars flat. Camber was 1.5/3.
What body are you racing with now?
I attended a parking lot race hosted at a new Hobbytown store and had a great time racing. The grip was very good. I ran a higher ride height 7/7 mm,
copper/purple springs and both sway bars flat. Camber was 1.5/3.
10-15-2007, 10:06 AM
#1537
10-15-2007, 07:07 PM
#1538
Comments to Markus's CD3 setup.
Every driver has a setup that works well for their driving style. Please take my comments as just that, comments. 
What I have found is that if you can balance the diffs first, the chassis setup is easier to configure.
1. If you are staying with the front gear diff, 120k fluid provides a lot of on-power understeer. If you modulate the throttle you can get the car turned. The front and rear diff are way out of balance. I have migrated to F/R 50k and up/100k and up for high traction. 20k/50k for medium traction.
and believe this 10k/20k - 30k for low traction. These values provide no on power understeer or oversteer, just neutral behavior due to throttle control.
I have not run the one-way diff this season, so I don't have a tested configuration for rear diff fluid to complement it.
2. I tried the spring configurations F/R gold 35 lbs/red 22 lbs ( purple/red also) for quite a few tracks. The very high traction tracks (very sticky) yielded the best results.The purple/purple (high traction) and then copper/copper has better overall chassis behavior for oversteer control. The best combination I have used for medium down to low traction tracks is F/R copper/purple (no typo here). Even with a high roll center I found that the rear was not spring stiff enough, which resulted in oversteer under quick direction changes. The rear spring (increase over the front spring value) did not affect rear traction on acceleration, as much as it improved the lateral traction and side bite. I have run this configuration at medium to low traction conditions only, and will use it for those conditions.
3. The 4mm droop will help in long curves, but if you have some heavy braking areas, your rear end could get loose due to the weight transfer forward. I so not have much experience "droop" tuning.
4. One important setting I don't see is your rear roll center. Which are you using high or low? I am assuming high, or you would be compaining with a low roll center and the red springs on the rear.
The other settings can be changed based on driving style, track conditions etc.
What I have found is that if you can balance the diffs first, the chassis setup is easier to configure.
1. If you are staying with the front gear diff, 120k fluid provides a lot of on-power understeer. If you modulate the throttle you can get the car turned. The front and rear diff are way out of balance. I have migrated to F/R 50k and up/100k and up for high traction. 20k/50k for medium traction.
and believe this 10k/20k - 30k for low traction. These values provide no on power understeer or oversteer, just neutral behavior due to throttle control.
I have not run the one-way diff this season, so I don't have a tested configuration for rear diff fluid to complement it.
2. I tried the spring configurations F/R gold 35 lbs/red 22 lbs ( purple/red also) for quite a few tracks. The very high traction tracks (very sticky) yielded the best results.The purple/purple (high traction) and then copper/copper has better overall chassis behavior for oversteer control. The best combination I have used for medium down to low traction tracks is F/R copper/purple (no typo here). Even with a high roll center I found that the rear was not spring stiff enough, which resulted in oversteer under quick direction changes. The rear spring (increase over the front spring value) did not affect rear traction on acceleration, as much as it improved the lateral traction and side bite. I have run this configuration at medium to low traction conditions only, and will use it for those conditions.
3. The 4mm droop will help in long curves, but if you have some heavy braking areas, your rear end could get loose due to the weight transfer forward. I so not have much experience "droop" tuning.
4. One important setting I don't see is your rear roll center. Which are you using high or low? I am assuming high, or you would be compaining with a low roll center and the red springs on the rear.
The other settings can be changed based on driving style, track conditions etc.
10-15-2007, 07:55 PM
#1539
Every driver has a setup that works well for their driving style. Please take my comments as just that, comments.
What I have found is that if you can balance the diffs first, the chassis setup is easier to configure.
1. If you are staying with the front gear diff, 120k fluid provides a lot of on-power understeer. If you modulate the throttle you can get the car turned. The front and rear diff are way out of balance. I have migrated to F/R 50k and up/100k and up for high traction. 20k/50k for medium traction.
and believe this 10k/20k - 30k for low traction. These values provide no on power understeer or oversteer, just neutral behavior due to throttle control.
I have not run the one-way diff this season, so I don't have a tested configuration for rear diff fluid to complement it.
2. I tried the spring configurations F/R gold 35 lbs/red 22 lbs ( purple/red also) for quite a few tracks. The very high traction tracks (very sticky) yielded the best results.The purple/purple (high traction) and then copper/copper has better overall chassis behavior for oversteer control. The best combination I have used for medium down to low traction tracks is F/R copper/purple (no typo here). Even with a high roll center I found that the rear was not spring stiff enough, which resulted in oversteer under quick direction changes. The rear spring (increase over the front spring value) did not affect rear traction on acceleration, as much as it improved the lateral traction and side bite. I have run this configuration at medium to low traction conditions only, and will use it for those conditions.
3. The 4mm droop will help in long curves, but if you have some heavy braking areas, your rear end could get loose due to the weight transfer forward. I so not have much experience "droop" tuning.
4. One important setting I don't see is your rear roll center. Which are you using high or low? I am assuming high, or you would be compaining with a low roll center and the red springs on the rear.
The other settings can be changed based on driving style, track conditions etc.
What I have found is that if you can balance the diffs first, the chassis setup is easier to configure.
1. If you are staying with the front gear diff, 120k fluid provides a lot of on-power understeer. If you modulate the throttle you can get the car turned. The front and rear diff are way out of balance. I have migrated to F/R 50k and up/100k and up for high traction. 20k/50k for medium traction.
and believe this 10k/20k - 30k for low traction. These values provide no on power understeer or oversteer, just neutral behavior due to throttle control.
I have not run the one-way diff this season, so I don't have a tested configuration for rear diff fluid to complement it.
2. I tried the spring configurations F/R gold 35 lbs/red 22 lbs ( purple/red also) for quite a few tracks. The very high traction tracks (very sticky) yielded the best results.The purple/purple (high traction) and then copper/copper has better overall chassis behavior for oversteer control. The best combination I have used for medium down to low traction tracks is F/R copper/purple (no typo here). Even with a high roll center I found that the rear was not spring stiff enough, which resulted in oversteer under quick direction changes. The rear spring (increase over the front spring value) did not affect rear traction on acceleration, as much as it improved the lateral traction and side bite. I have run this configuration at medium to low traction conditions only, and will use it for those conditions.
3. The 4mm droop will help in long curves, but if you have some heavy braking areas, your rear end could get loose due to the weight transfer forward. I so not have much experience "droop" tuning.
4. One important setting I don't see is your rear roll center. Which are you using high or low? I am assuming high, or you would be compaining with a low roll center and the red springs on the rear.
The other settings can be changed based on driving style, track conditions etc.
10-16-2007, 10:24 AM
#1540
The biggest change you will need to make with a one way if to your brakes. You have to remember you will only have rear brakes. If you leave the brakes set as if you had a diff up front, you will spin out. Not a good thing if you need to hit the brakes in a corner! Also, as you will have less overall braking power, you will have to brake a little sooner before you enter your corner instead of diving in and hitting the brakes as late as possible. It forces you to drive a bit smoother but it will be a bit faster.
