spenzalii

iTrader: (2)

Trust me, I can vouch for the car. If you check near the beginning, I've been one of the few that have run an Ofna car for some time, beinning with the LD3. As mentioned, most of the problems from last season resulted from the accessories (engine, servo, etc) going wrong, not so much the car itself. At this point I have the full option CD3 with all the hop-ups (carbon fiber shock towers, monoblock mount, aluminum shafts, 6 gear diff, ceramic bearings etc). Like Delta9 said, the carbon shock towers really aren't worth it, IMO. True, you get 2 more shock mounting options, but they are a bit brittle. I broke them 3 times in the series last near and have yet to break a stock shock tower, from the LD3 to now. If you shim the rear correctly, the 6 gear diff in the rear is the way to go. Usually the thicker oil is in the front, but if the other way around works for you, go for it. On the LD3 I used to run 300k up front and 120k in the rear. It was pretty hooked up. I just got used to the one way this year.

The decision weather or not to run the CD3 pretty much comes to parts support. Right now, my driving style is still progressing, so buying the latest and greatest kit wouldn't make sense for that. It really boils down to parts support. If I have a Mugen (especially, as a few drivers at the track are sponsored by them), Serpent, Kyosho or Team Magic, if something breaks at the track I can get the part in 10 minutes at the shop. If I don't have the spare in my box for the CD3, it's a call to Nitrohouse on Monday. I loose 3-5 days I can practice while I wait for the parts to come in. It's nota huge problem, but it is something to consider.

spenzalii

iTrader: (2)

Aren't you on your 8th different car by now BB? I hope you find something that works for you (besides more practice, that is...)

nitrothugg

the local parts support for our neck of the woods is non-existant for pro 1/10 scale. but by reading through here, i see that everything i want online can be had.

and you described my driving as well (progressing). so you are right, getting the latest and greatest would probally be a waste of money anyway.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

The lounge room is slowing filling up with cars, but there is always room for more

BB

CurveTracer

iTrader: (5)

Are there any parts that can be lightened up in these cars?
I have read that on other models like MTX-4 etc people are moving to lighter weight parts like transmission shafts, spur gears mounts etc.

I don't believe that I am driving at a level to that I can take advantage of a lighter drivetrain. But if it means that on selected corners I can get ahead of the car following me and beat it to the next corner, I may try a mod or two.

hammadown

SOLD!!!!!!!!!!!!

HAMMADOWN

au_Nightmare

CurveTracer,
The best hopup is experience There are alloy center drive shafts (if you don't already have them). Ofcourse the correct gearing would be much more of an advantage (go the 0.8!! woohoo).

CurveTracer

iTrader: (5)

Both my cars are CD3 PRO Kit cars (0.8 is stock)
Thanks for reinforcing the basic principle.
Last season I spent more time practicing than racing and I was able to sort out the chassis setup, correct sticking diffs and actually get predictable results from chassis and clutch changes.

I switched to different gearing for both my Picco and STS D3R and have never been happier. It has proven to me that engine gearing is a very important to car setup. It is why my STS D3R can hold its own with the OS TZ's and the like.

spenzalii

iTrader: (2)

Another hopup I'd recommend, although not cheap, are the ceramic bearings. You will notice a difference in the lack of friction.

Joe Tanto

Hi I would like to ask what's the difference with a shaft drive like the CD3 and the belt drive cars?

I will be getting a CD3 within a few weeks, but someone told me that belt drive works better, any views please?

Joe F

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Todays belt driver tourers have stronger belts and are as smooth as shaft driven cars. The shafts still have that punch on accel (good for small tracks) but belts are just so smooth. I remember running a CD3 and I loved it.

spenzalii

iTrader: (2)

Here's another take on it:

http://www.teamassociated.com/questi.../q32posted.htm

That said, I like my CD3, even though belts rule my track.

CurveTracer

iTrader: (5)

I have only driven the CD3 and I have to say the acceleration out of the corners is pretty quick. Having the chassis setup for the track helps a lot.
The maintenance for the drivetrain is pretty quick but must be done periodically. One racer that recently switched from a belt drive car to the CD3 indicated that it is easier to coast with the staft drive car.

Be careful when building the gear differential, make sure that operation is not notchy but smooth.

Joe Tanto

thanks guys for your help..............................

Joe F

Delta9

Curvetracer, my diff is feeling notchy at the moment, going to strip it down this week, what did you do to make sure the diff was smooth? i have ordered so more diff shims, just waiting for them to arrive.