trumpster1

iTrader: (9)

Well ladies and gentleman, I believe that I have done the unthinkable.

The NTC3 clutch bell will fit perfectly on the force .12 shaft directly over the clutch. The only extra that I have to add is a bearing with flange on the end of the shaft to keep the bellhousing on. I'm going to be getting 20/26 for the clutchbell, and the 0.8 gearing is 55/49. My previous post stated that it was 54/49, but I was wrong, it's 55/49. 6 tooth difference, kinda odd.

Everything seems to mesh up fine and with the clutch bell being slighly larger actually in diameter, I think that my RPM's will be slightly higher when it engages.

Well, I'll post more later if anyone posts anything else cause it's time for bed. Yeah yeah, I'm a wus, it's been a long day!

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Here are some photos of my Cheese Grator after some dremel work tonight I will try an run it on the weekend and let you all know how it goes....

BB

au_Nightmare

Dude, we are talking about the GEARS fitting / not fitting remember, so dont worry what the BELL part looks like as it does not matter (mines a centax).. Now look at the threads on the clutch bells, you should of noticed the HN / OFNA bell has a larger thread for the 2nd gear where the NTC3 one is the same size thread all the way, that is what im showing you.. masterwebber also shows this in his image. So if you plan on getting ofna gears after being told they wont work - good luck cause you will need it.

trumpster1

iTrader: (9)

au: I'm not saying that the OFNA gears will fit. When I was at my LHS last night I used the Team Associated (NTC3) gears on the NTC3 bell and it meshed with the 0.8 gears from OFNA with no problems. Like I had said in my previous post, the only thing that I have to modify is the bearings. There needs to be flange bearings on the top and bottom of the bell. I do see what you were saying about the different sized threads, but I guess that I was not explaining myself properly at the fact that I did understand that and that is why I knew that the other gears would fit the NTC3 clutch bell. I'm sorry for not saying that.

I appreciate everyones help tremendously. Once I get everything up and running I'll let you know how it works and if there is any difference.

BB: If this works, you should look into it. It's relatively inexpensive. I think I'll have about $70 wrapped up into this whole project.

Later

au_Nightmare

As per my post on the 13th of Jan that listed the bell, gears and bearings to use (good to see you have now reached the first two items). Then you post about ordering gears from OFNA - yes you have me confused. I would hope the NTC 0.8 gear meshed with other 0.8 gears otherwise they would not be 0.8 module would they

Don't you mean "buy a new front bearing" (see post on 13th of Jan - size & type)

lol now son, I did say start of removing a little, not go to the extreme straight away! Be interesting to see how it goes now, hope it does not engage too late.

trumpster1

iTrader: (9)

au: Thanks for all your help. Sorry that I confused you, becuase I was confused as hell myself. I have all your notes, but I guess that I didn't understand them until I actually seen physically what we were talking about. I'm more of a hands on guy. I need to see it and hold it for myself to understand what is being talked about, but at least on here I will get the basic understanding of what I am trying to accomplish.

Yeah yeah yeah, "buy a new front bearing". Thanks for the English correction. You will see that my english skills suck. I got a "D" in Junior English in High School.

BB: When I get around to it, I'll post a pic of my chasis, it looks a hell of a lot worse than yours.

Take care guys, and Thanks a bunch.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

I wasn't trying to show how bad the chassis is scratched rather that i bent the front bumper

BB

spenzalii

iTrader: (2)

Ick. Did the same thing to mine after a rather nasty wreck. Body never did fit well after that.

madbeats

please can some one tell me which engine should i get.... am looking at two rody or jp

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Both are great. The Modded JP will be a bit faster probably, but also more expensive. Where are you racing? How big is the track? I'd also take a look at the Tim Hotts N12 Noavrossi motor as it's a great motor. The RB Rody is a lil finicky to tune, but if you get them set right they scream. My Rody, unfortunately the first model, is a bit slower than the ROAR and EFRA version, but a lot more reliable.

madbeats

Thank for you infor please can you commet on these engines JP FX 12 T-03M Turbo-EFRA or RB V12 Turbo 3 Port (Rody tuned) thanks

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

V12 Rody ROAR>V12 Rody EFRA

For the price the JP comes with ceramics bearings while the RB doesn't and is probably faster. Regardless they are all fast motors. If your track is a small to medium size neither of these engines are worth spending the $$ on. They are great for those huge tracks with a lot of wide turns, long backstretch, and wide infield. Since they are all modified they will require careful tuning and 8th of a turn makes big differences.

madbeats

Thanks HarKonnenD
I think i will get the two engines and see which one i like ... here a pic of the track we run on.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Wow after I opened up the pic a bit more that is quite a large track. I'd say go for the JP engine.

au_Nightmare

Selling a few spares, you guys maybe interested.

Darn - Pretty nice track!!
Q: Why do so many tracks have the straight right under the drivers stand where your field of view is the smallest? I much prefer the straight on other side where you can see more of the track for those high speed runs then the infield closer for those technical areas