chachi

I am trying to break in a new Novamega SX12 SS and it is so tight that it keeps getting stuck before it can turn over on its own. I lubed the snot out of it with after run oil and tried heating it with a blow dryer to no avail. It will turn over a couple of times on the starter box and then get stuck. The starter box is unable to keep turning it over (old style starter box with 2X540 and 12V gelcell). The glow plug and ignitor are good. It has done this over and over again. I am going mental....

Any suggestions?

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

loosen the glow plug a little bit so it can loose a little bit of compression until you get it started then tighten the glow plug

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

hey All, I just got my MT12 pinched and I heard that since the engine is not new I dont have to in a sence re-break it in as I would a new engine w/ not a drop of fuel throug it. but I was told of this method:

before doing anything else richen the bottom and top 1/4 turn and idle it on the box a tankor so then drive it around richening it a little bit after the 2nd tankand a little more after the 3rd or 4th one then you should be able to
tune it after that

does this sound ok?????

thanks Jason

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

thats what i heard, any ways on my engines i run 1 tank at half throttle and the 2nd one at full throttle then its of to the track to start leaning it out and tuning!

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

thanks for the response marcos- but the part that I do not get is that why richening it a little bit after the 2nd tankand a little more after the 3rd or 4th one then you should be able totune it after that. why should I richen the needles after the 2nd -4th thanks? I thought that i would just run it as rich as possible for a tank or two like you said half throttle and 2nd tank full throttle......

p.s do you know where I can find a conrod for a MT12, if it by by nova or anyother complanies that will work also


thanks J.

au_Nightmare

I wouldn't be going as fast as Marcos does his engines (each to his own though <grin>)

With a new engine I open it up and remove any metal filings left in there from when it was made (yes it happens)
I then drop some lube down the glow hole and fit the plug.
The engine is then pre-heated with a hair dryer, this will make the engine a lot easier starting the first few times and reduce stress on conrod/crank pin.
Once engine is started you can either idle, heat cycle, drive around slowly whatever takes your fancy but you must not rev the engine as this puts lots of stress on engine.

A good way to check if engine is ready to be leaned out and dialed in for racing (ie you can start reving its tits off hehe) is take glow plug out and turn engine over by hand. Once you feel only *slight* resistance you can lean out, otherwise keep on with the low revs/break in process.

Just remember all engines are different, how long break in takes depends on the materials and the size the piston/sleeve from factory. IE, a STS Dragon will take 2 Ltrs of fuel before its ready to be leaned out, yes unreal hey. Rush it on a Dragon and you have high chance of busting the crank pin off the crank...

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

thanks for the respsose nightmare