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Old 02-01-2011, 08:56 AM   #1456
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Thanks Steve, I have checked all the hinge pins and they seem fine. I have been racing 1/8th for over 20years, so I do know a thing or two about setup and how to tweak a car. I run the car with the floating deck and believe that its extremely hard to get the car to not be tweaked. Even after a run, and I don't normally hit anything, the chassis which had no tweak before the run can return with a slight tweak. I am talking about small amounts and yes I put the car on a hudy tweak station. I never seem to have this problem with the 4.

With the floating deck, we where told to tighten the two screws down to be snug as it can cause the radio interference problems.
Maybe I have tighten these screws down too much, if thats possible. These screws may move during the run therefore changing
the tweak of the car.

No big deal only a little more work from run to run
hey west what i have found on all our team cars is that the tweak seems to be the same thing. couple of things makes sure the 2 bearings our always in the middle of that bracket and the radio tray is centered, if it is not few things to check make sure your battery is taped in the center of the battery tray and not hitting the side of the rec box causing the radio tray to b pushed to one side and do not run the battery wire on top or on the side of the radio box it can cause it to be pushed to one side more and stop it from moving. every time i resetup my car its always tweaked the same im not sure what does it i have checked everything 1000 times and im talking on a brand new car also, and yes after tweaking it and running it, it goes back the same way. i have a feeling after looking at the front esentrics the plastic inserts they r turning white which is telling me the front alum bulkhead is getting heated up and my feeling is causing it to distort and cause the radio tray floats it does not hold its position good after a run what u think?
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Old 02-01-2011, 12:18 PM   #1457
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Hi,

someone recognized that in the instructions Mugen did not specify which mounting brackets to use for different servo brands?
The H0362B or C thingy...
I will run Futaba BLS 451 on the steering and 9452 on the throttle. Any thoughts on brackets and spacers?

Thanks a lot, Stefan
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Old 02-01-2011, 02:38 PM   #1458
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hey west what i have found on all our team cars is that the tweak seems to be the same thing. couple of things makes sure the 2 bearings our always in the middle of that bracket and the radio tray is centered, if it is not few things to check make sure your battery is taped in the center of the battery tray and not hitting the side of the rec box causing the radio tray to b pushed to one side and do not run the battery wire on top or on the side of the radio box it can cause it to be pushed to one side more and stop it from moving. every time i resetup my car its always tweaked the same im not sure what does it i have checked everything 1000 times and im talking on a brand new car also, and yes after tweaking it and running it, it goes back the same way. i have a feeling after looking at the front esentrics the plastic inserts they r turning white which is telling me the front alum bulkhead is getting heated up and my feeling is causing it to distort and cause the radio tray floats it does not hold its position good after a run what u think?
Hi Ralph,

Thats what I am trying to say, spot on. I had another look last night and found that the radio tray was to one side. It seem to be that way, even after a couple of runs with a brand new car. The car did not even get close to brushing a wall. I compete at the top level in Australia and know how to build and drive these things.

I have replaced, everything you can think of, including a new chassis, I matched my shocks with the Losi tool and spend hours trying to get it perfect and when it returns from a clean run, the car has a tweak again and always to the same side.

I have also found the front esentrics to have turned white as you mention. I replaced that part as well, it turned white after about 1 hour of use. I believe the cause of that is the part is spinning in the bulkhead at probably the same speed as the bearing and heating up. Maybe Mugen should convert it to a fixed part like the rear esentrics. It would solve two problems at once, we can tighten the front belt using the front esentrics, therefore not needing to move the middle layshafts too far back and having more tension on the side belt. I will put new front esentrics in tonight and try again. Will let you know if it makes a difference.
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Old 02-01-2011, 03:02 PM   #1459
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Try scoring the inside and outside of the bearing holders using an xacto. Dont cut so that it cuts completely through but enough to deform the plastic a little bit to give it a bit more grip. I've read many guys doing this on electric touring knuckles to prevent bearings from spinning.
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Old 02-01-2011, 03:55 PM   #1460
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At last...Tim i was asking a few people if they had the same problem in Vic and they all said that there radio tray was centered. I thought i asked you but i obviously didnt. Be interested to hear what fixes it.
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Old 02-01-2011, 04:16 PM   #1461
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Originally Posted by fulcrum2 View Post
Hi,

someone recognized that in the instructions Mugen did not specify which mounting brackets to use for different servo brands?
The H0362B or C thingy...
I will run Futaba BLS 451 on the steering and 9452 on the throttle. Any thoughts on brackets and spacers?

Thanks a lot, Stefan
i said the same thing when i built my car that they did not put it in the instructions i cant really tell u which ones i just did it by eye...
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Old 02-01-2011, 04:23 PM   #1462
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Hi Ralph,

Thats what I am trying to say, spot on. I had another look last night and found that the radio tray was to one side. It seem to be that way, even after a couple of runs with a brand new car. The car did not even get close to brushing a wall. I compete at the top level in Australia and know how to build and drive these things.

I have replaced, everything you can think of, including a new chassis, I matched my shocks with the Losi tool and spend hours trying to get it perfect and when it returns from a clean run, the car has a tweak again and always to the same side.

I have also found the front esentrics to have turned white as you mention. I replaced that part as well, it turned white after about 1 hour of use. I believe the cause of that is the part is spinning in the bulkhead at probably the same speed as the bearing and heating up. Maybe Mugen should convert it to a fixed part like the rear esentrics. It would solve two problems at once, we can tighten the front belt using the front esentrics, therefore not needing to move the middle layshafts too far back and having more tension on the side belt. I will put new front esentrics in tonight and try again. Will let you know if it makes a difference.

when u hold the car in your hands from the front and rear u can twist the car and see it move back and forth and the only thing i can tell is the radio tray pushing from one side is coming from the front bulkheads long as like i said nothing from the battery or wire is causing it, also if u do tighten those screws for the bearings of the rear of the tray make sure the rec box is now not hitting the chasis if so shave some off. also what do u think of running aluminum essentrics in the front or will that cause more of a heat issue?
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Old 02-01-2011, 04:24 PM   #1463
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Initially Daniel, I tough it was me and that I was doing something wrong. Being a new chassis, there are always new ways and steps which can be followed to achieve a perfect non tweaked chassis. However I am still lost as the problem is the tweak keeps on changing. I can feel the car getting worst during the run where the 4x was quite consistent. I could run the 4x for weeks and not touch the tweak and its perfect from the last time I set it. I am also glade others are having the problem in one way, if you know what I mean, but not having this problem would be better I will try the fix tray setting and play with other things to see if I get a solution and post the results.
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Old 02-01-2011, 04:31 PM   #1464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by West03 View Post
Initially Daniel, I tough it was me and that I was doing something wrong. Being a new chassis, there are always new ways and steps which can be followed to achieve a perfect non tweaked chassis. However I am still lost as the problem is the tweak keeps on changing. I can feel the car getting worst during the run where the 4x was quite consistent. I could run the 4x for weeks and not touch the tweak and its perfect from the last time I set it. I am also glade others are having the problem in one way, if you know what I mean, but not having this problem would be better I will try the fix tray setting and play with other things to see if I get a solution and post the results.
. After every run are you saying your droop screws move, or maybe your radio tray is not centered in the rear on the radio tray bracket ?
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Old 02-01-2011, 04:54 PM   #1465
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. After every run are you saying your droop screws move, or maybe your radio tray is not centered in the rear on the radio tray bracket ?
The droop screws are fine, the rear radio plate in the floating configurations is not lined up. I you have a MRX5 and using the floating deck check to see if the bearing are lined up in the centre. I bet you they are not inline.
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Old 02-01-2011, 05:06 PM   #1466
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Originally Posted by ralphierace13 View Post
when u hold the car in your hands from the front and rear u can twist the car and see it move back and forth and the only thing i can tell is the radio tray pushing from one side is coming from the front bulkheads long as like i said nothing from the battery or wire is causing it, also if u do tighten those screws for the bearings of the rear of the tray make sure the rec box is now not hitting the chasis if so shave some off. also what do u think of running aluminum essentrics in the front or will that cause more of a heat issue?
I space the rear of the radio plate with the old 4x servo spacers. I think its the 2.5mm one. It lines up with the holes for the rear and moves the radio plate up enough so there is a gap between the chassis and rec box. There is no need to then shave any part of the car.

I don't like the idea of an aluminium part rubbing against another aluminium part. It will wear out quicker and you will find yourself having to change the aluminium bulkhead regularly. It's going to be cheaper to just replace the plastic esentrics. We use to run the Picco car, the all aluminium version years ago. That had cast aluminium arms with steel shafts. They just kept on wearing out so quickly and you had to change arms and shafts all the time.
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Old 02-01-2011, 05:27 PM   #1467
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The droop screws are fine, the rear radio plate in the floating configurations is not lined up. I you have a MRX5 and using the floating deck check to see if the bearing are lined up in the centre. I bet you they are not inline.
How does this effect your lap times or handling of the car after every tank ? Try to tighten the screws, but make sure the radio tray still moves (even if it's a little stiff) and see if that helps.
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Old 02-01-2011, 11:57 PM   #1468
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Do you think the front bulkheads maybe slightly worped, causing the radio tray to be off centre?
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Old 02-02-2011, 01:54 AM   #1469
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The droop screws are fine, the rear radio plate in the floating configurations is not lined up. I you have a MRX5 and using the floating deck check to see if the bearing are lined up in the centre. I bet you they are not inline.
Have you run the car with the tray locked down ....I ran mine this way at pre worlds and worked well. I don't really care for the floating tray I saw how loose some of the mugen guys ran theirs at the pre worlds and top rear of tray was able to lift off literally the mid mount is your front sway bar in good shape and installed properly? Are the 1.5 set screws holding the sway bar (front securely) your rear sway bar should be as level with ground as possible.In the front end wher you mount the front upper hinge pin those pieces leave loose on both sides before you tighten the front of the upper deck then secure them all with the car being held flat. See if it centers and stays.
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Old 02-02-2011, 04:54 AM   #1470
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Tim, the minor tweak was also another thing I really wanted to ask you why it's keep happening to my car too, but I also forgot since I thought it wouldn't be a really big deal. Well, I hit a lot of things and yes I do break stuffs in many races, so it might be a little bit different cases. But I've also got the tweak on the same side and same amount of tweak every time. Well, I've tried new chassis, rec box and new top tray, but it was still doing the same thing after couple runs.

I noticed that my top tray was wear down a lot, as well as the middle bracket. I've literally measured the top tray, and the part where it is touching with radio tray bracket is wearing down over 1mm. I've tighten the floating screw until it becomes snug and loosen a quarter turn to have a free movement, but not lifting a lot.

After a few run, top tray, middle bracket and rec box was still 'wearing out', and even the part of chassis where rec box is touching. I've just got a feeling that it may have something to do with it.

I've also noticed that car becomes tweaked after I leave it for an hour. Say I rebuild a car and fix the tweak. Then I leave the car for about an hour and then re-checked the tweak, and there's a little bit of new tweak. But at some point this was not happening after I got rid of one piece engine mount, so I guess this is not an issue in this case.

Let me know if you can fix it. I know we can probably fix this with fixed top tray mounting, but I still would love to use floating mount, so hopefully there's a way to fix this. It doesn't bother me that much too, but it would be great if we can fix this.
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