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Old 01-28-2011, 07:06 AM   #1441
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Default CSO belt tensioner

I bought it from CSO, pretty nice quality, but this package doesn't include another 2 pieces of flange bearings, however, it does come with 2 belt tensioner shafts.
it really helps!!!!
check it out!!!!
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Last edited by choisan; 01-28-2011 at 07:28 AM.
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Old 01-28-2011, 07:22 AM   #1442
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Default cso front anti-roll bar stand

this is also a nice one. the original plastic is a bit flimsy when i installed.
now, i use cso front anti-roll bar stand, made by 7075 T6, cso also gets other thickness of front anti-roll bars. i do not know what other thickness i should try, any suggestion???
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Last edited by choisan; 01-28-2011 at 07:35 AM.
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:51 AM   #1443
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Run a shorter belt solves the problem!
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Old 01-28-2011, 11:55 AM   #1444
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Run a shorter belt solves the problem!
I agree.What about the new mugen optional belts?
http://www.mugenseiki.com/menueefi.htm
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Old 01-28-2011, 05:17 PM   #1445
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I agree.What about the new mugen optional belts?
http://www.mugenseiki.com/menueefi.htm
allready tried them same thing too long i dont understand what the problem is to shorten it but it is what it is
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Old 01-28-2011, 05:46 PM   #1446
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How many teeth is the belt?
Does anyone know which other kit uses one less tooth? If so check toughracing belts, these are mbl also
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Old 01-28-2011, 10:31 PM   #1447
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allready tried them same thing too long i dont understand what the problem is to shorten it but it is what it is
I think that mugen should have allready solve this problem it is not good letting us loose our head with such matters....
it is also unacceptable to have a cso solution but not a mugen one..
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Old 01-29-2011, 05:10 AM   #1448
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I made an extra side belt tensisioner out of some old mrx 4r and x stock mid bulkhead I gotta take a pic it works real nice with stock long belt. Ran it at pre worlds no problems.
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Old 01-29-2011, 05:10 PM   #1449
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I made an extra side belt tensisioner out of some old mrx 4r and x stock mid bulkhead I gotta take a pic it works real nice with stock long belt. Ran it at pre worlds no problems.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5Sq3ymPbGY
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:37 PM   #1450
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I agree.What about the new mugen optional belts?
http://www.mugenseiki.com/menueefi.htm
I have the optional belts, with the tensioner pushed all the way down no slipping, unless your trying to turn it like Magilla Gorilla
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:22 PM   #1451
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I am not sure if its just me, but has anyone else found it harder to keep and event get the MRX5 to be not tweaked? What are the best steps other users have taken to get the car to be not tweaked? I know all the steps prior to working on a cars tweak, like straight chassis, equal lengths on everything from left to right ect.
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:34 PM   #1452
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I am not sure if its just me, but has anyone else found it harder to keep and event get the MRX5 to be not tweaked? What are the best steps other users have taken to get the car to be not tweaked? I know all the steps prior to working on a cars tweak, like straight chassis, equal lengths on everything from left to right ect.
Check out Michael Salven's video on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILFfD...eature=related

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Old 01-31-2011, 02:41 PM   #1453
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Originally Posted by West03 View Post
I am not sure if its just me, but has anyone else found it harder to keep and event get the MRX5 to be not tweaked? What are the best steps other users have taken to get the car to be not tweaked? I know all the steps prior to working on a cars tweak, like straight chassis, equal lengths on everything from left to right ect.
The Hudy setup with the tweak board that came with the ultimate set up works great!
Trim the top of the rear A arms so that you can get to and adjust the rear sway bar turnbuckles, I have found that these get jammed in and need adjustment....
Then again I need to stop hitting stuff.
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Old 01-31-2011, 07:49 PM   #1454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by West03 View Post
I am not sure if its just me, but has anyone else found it harder to keep and event get the MRX5 to be not tweaked? What are the best steps other users have taken to get the car to be not tweaked? I know all the steps prior to working on a cars tweak, like straight chassis, equal lengths on everything from left to right ect.


West03---try checking your top plate making sure its not bound so it moves freely side to side if you are not running the flex undo your screws and let the car settle on a flat surface before re-tightning the screws....,
may also check the hidge pins on the lower arms making sure they are not bent, then tweak the car from the bottom with a screwdriver or an xacto from the center lifting up and making sure the tires lift up and touch down at the same time...adjust to correct........if still off more than a turn it is a hindge pin

fellas on the belt being to long ........make sure your stopper on the back side is stopper up alowing the screw to slide further down....and the belts do not have to be that tight , having equal tension on the front and the rear should help with the side belt...you shouls be able to push the belts front and rear down 5-8 mm and be ok

hope this helps
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Old 01-31-2011, 10:22 PM   #1455
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Thanks Steve, I have checked all the hinge pins and they seem fine. I have been racing 1/8th for over 20years, so I do know a thing or two about setup and how to tweak a car. I run the car with the floating deck and believe that its extremely hard to get the car to not be tweaked. Even after a run, and I don't normally hit anything, the chassis which had no tweak before the run can return with a slight tweak. I am talking about small amounts and yes I put the car on a hudy tweak station. I never seem to have this problem with the 4.

With the floating deck, we where told to tighten the two screws down to be snug as it can cause the radio interference problems.
Maybe I have tighten these screws down too much, if thats possible. These screws may move during the run therefore changing
the tweak of the car.

No big deal only a little more work from run to run
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