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Old 12-30-2010, 07:38 PM   #1246
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yb can u make the light weight axles so we can use them with the dogbones for rear im talking about? ,,
Yes,
I hope to have some in early February.
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Old 12-31-2010, 12:38 AM   #1247
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CSO released new product again !
Steel Hardcoated Front Swing Shaft Set
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Old 12-31-2010, 08:06 AM   #1248
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Default state series race

The brooklyn hobbies team will be going back to homestead next week for the state series race . We just couldnt get enough of that great facility ! The mrx5 's were working great cant wait to get back on that track !



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Old 12-31-2010, 02:29 PM   #1249
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Yes,
I hope to have some in early February.
I would be interested in something for the rear also. Dog bone or CVD

I just am not that into putting the CVD on the rear of the car to use aluminum axles. Just seems to easy to break.

Titanium or Cut Steel rear axles would be nice.
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Old 12-31-2010, 10:27 PM   #1250
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Default YB !!

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Yes,
I hope to have some in early February.
GIVE ME A CALL

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Old 01-01-2011, 04:25 AM   #1251
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Default Clutch Show (yellow)

I ran my car today for first time, everything went well except clutch shoe, it worn down really fast and I notice yellow powder around carburettor, RH rear bulkhead. I set the clutch up as per instruction. I never have any problem with other brand of cars.

Is MUEGN having any harder clutch shoe? Or Is anyone have the same problem as me?

Thanks
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Old 01-01-2011, 06:13 AM   #1252
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I ran my car today for first time, everything went well except clutch shoe, it worn down really fast and I notice yellow powder around carburettor, RH rear bulkhead. I set the clutch up as per instruction. I never have any problem with other brand of cars.

Is MUEGN having any harder clutch shoe? Or Is anyone have the same problem as me?

Thanks
For me, the original shoe dusted up real bad the first run but after that, hardly wore at all. I'm still running that shoe.
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Old 01-01-2011, 06:45 AM   #1253
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For me, the original shoe dusted up real bad the first run but after that, hardly wore at all. I'm still running that shoe.
JUN'S RC Option parts already released two different Clutch shoe (pink & red)for MRX
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Old 01-01-2011, 08:16 AM   #1254
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Originally Posted by jca2000au View Post
I ran my car today for first time, everything went well except clutch shoe, it worn down really fast and I notice yellow powder around carburettor, RH rear bulkhead. I set the clutch up as per instruction. I never have any problem with other brand of cars.

Is MUEGN having any harder clutch shoe? Or Is anyone have the same problem as me?

Thanks
almost everyone has the same issue in my track. some suspect it is clutch bell quality issue. anyone knows what is it about????
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Old 01-01-2011, 09:44 AM   #1255
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Hope this could help, the motor is not tuned for the setting of the clutch, the bell is worn out, the clutch nut could be a little to tight by even .010. Back your spring nut off 1/2 turn and look at the dust again, it should go away or minamize. How does the clutch feel on the track? . Hold the rear wheel for a split second with you give it hard throttle and you will learn to feel the cluch in your hand if it's slipping or grabbing hard.

Plus there is nothing wrong with the stock yellow clutch shoe, it workS real well, IMO..

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Old 01-01-2011, 12:31 PM   #1256
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Default CLUTCH DUST

Hope this helps . For many years I thought the dust was coming from spring too tight or gap to far . When a customer would come in for us to set the clutch we would set it with the spring not too tight and close gap , figureing when the shoe breaks in he would be at the right gap . Well we had many clutch dusting actually all of them did. My opinion from my trials and error when spring too tight or gap too far you shoe will burn and turn black . A little brown on the yellow shoe ok as long as gap stays the same . The dusting actually comes from not enough spring tension or not enough gap . The clutch shoe dont have enough rpm to lock into the bell and spin the wheels so it then bounces on and off the bell till it grabs causeing dusting . When we made our gap between .7 and .8 we stopped the dusting . Example : real car manual transmission not giving enough rpms while releasing the clutch car will buck . same thing happening with clutch bell .
We struggled with the clutch for years and if you dont pay attention to it often , you will lose the good setting . Some guys were running .4 to .5 gap which i dont advise . i seen a top driver suffer with his clutch at preworlds and i know he runs .4 or .5 gap . Depends on tracks traction but This is what i advise for mugen 3 shoe clutch .

Take inside bearing out of the bottom of the clutch bell so bell will rest on shoe . measure your gap , if new shoe you can set to .7 if used and in good condition .8 . your measureing of this gap is critical for the a good clutch . i advise checking it every run till it stops changeing and broken in . Then put inside bearing back in and put shims which usually equals about 1.3 to 1.5 to bring bell off of shoe . this will stop bell from rubbing shoe when you come off throttle and also roll around corners better with no drag of engine .

Now comes the spring tension . the problem is you never know how much to tighten . You can start at factory settings and tighten down spring till you get desired power from bottom end but if you start losse and keep tightening you can go down till it starts to slip then back it up . if you here slipping on track then you went too far and will burn the shoe .

I can only talk from my expierence and know this to be true . Hope this helps . yes also dusting problems can come from bent pressure plates since they are lightweight aluminum now , if 1 flyweight gets hung up it will bend plate . bad clutch bell will also do this . good luck

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see everyone in florida at the state race in homestead !
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Old 01-01-2011, 12:45 PM   #1257
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It does make sense. How bigger the gap the more the flyweights will go out, the further the flyweigts are from the center they will create more force and more force does give a stronger grip on the clutch.
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Old 01-01-2011, 03:29 PM   #1258
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Originally Posted by jca2000au View Post
I ran my car today for first time, everything went well except clutch shoe, it worn down really fast and I notice yellow powder around carburettor, RH rear bulkhead. I set the clutch up as per instruction. I never have any problem with other brand of cars.

Is MUEGN having any harder clutch shoe? Or Is anyone have the same problem as me?

Thanks
Go to youtube and search for Michael Salven clutch set-up. He gives general clutch building information and he builds the clutch on camera for you to see. Also, different colored shoes will give you a different effect. Yellow is known to be the happy medium. Take your time and check all measurement before going out to run. Clutch and engine tunning go hand in hand.
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Old 01-01-2011, 03:37 PM   #1259
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Originally Posted by walo View Post
Go to youtube and search for Michael Salven clutch set-up. He gives general clutch building information and he builds the clutch on camera for you to see. Also, different colored shoes will give you a different effect. Yellow is known to be the happy medium. Take your time and check all measurement before going out to run. Clutch and engine tunning go hand in hand.
I have 2 SERPENT & 1 XRAY, never have any problem with any of them. I feel MUGEN yellow clutch shoe is like wax (soft) not as hard as other.

And other thing is my fly weigts is leading shoes, how about other?

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Old 01-01-2011, 06:07 PM   #1260
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I feel MUGEN yellow clutch shoe is like wax (soft) not as hard as other.
Trust me, I have several gallons on one yellow shoe. It works great when set up right.
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