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Old 10-29-2010, 08:51 AM   #946
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Default brass battery tray

i was at the paris race i tested the car with and without brass battery tray i could not tell a differance on the way the car handled.it worked fine for me ive been using them in my 4x allso no differance there either.i like the weight in the center and bottom of the car....thx hope this helps u guys and gals to test it for your self make your own minds up thx have a good day
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Old 10-29-2010, 03:10 PM   #947
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Originally Posted by YBSLOW View Post
Sometimes different track coditions will yield different results.

All I am saying as an engineer is that brass is no where near as stiff as carbon fiber.

Therefore chassis flex would be more with the brass than the carbon fiber. This is simple fact and not an opinion on what it makes the car do. Try it for yourself you may like it. Like I said different track conditions and setup of the rest of the car will certainly contribute.
i used your brass in the 4 and loved it im just repeating from what i was told from one of the top drivers anyhow we need to order some stuff from u are the trays in stock and the hardened front body mount? thanks
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Old 10-30-2010, 11:22 AM   #948
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i used your brass in the 4 and loved it im just repeating from what i was told from one of the top drivers anyhow we need to order some stuff from u are the trays in stock and the hardened front body mount? thanks
yes, I will add them to the website tonight or tomorrow.
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Old 10-31-2010, 08:32 PM   #949
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Default P909 body Mounting?

Are most of you guys running the Protoform P909 body?

If so, how far from the middle of the bumper are you mounting them?
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Old 11-01-2010, 01:13 AM   #950
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make 4 body posts turned at the most rear position, then open holes by 20mm from centre of the bumper to the front side of the body. then you may try another body position by moving the 4 posts to the front.
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Old 11-01-2010, 07:51 PM   #951
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Default brass tray

I to have run the car with or without the tray.....may it not be the MRX5 but the 4 i have ,the stiffness is not the issue with or without....the only challenge comes when the car takes a hard hit ....sometimes the car does not return to neutral causing a tweak....so ....i would recomend the tray not be used after a hard hard hit , you should replace the tray with a new one......sounds expensive right?......not the kind of money we all spend on the fuel the tires the plugs...it is just a part of maintenance we all overlook...make sense?

just an opinion ...thanks for reading
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Old 11-01-2010, 08:51 PM   #952
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Originally Posted by mugenize1 View Post
Any car that hit the wall or rails at hi speed something will crack or break what I am worried about is the radio problem the glitching I do not want a runway car. I sold my 4X to get the MRX-5 and now I do not think I made the correct choice maybe I go back to the MTX4R 1/10 scale.
ok several ppl have asked me about my runaway....im not convinced the runaway was a car issue....now that i have had the time to dig into it i have found


A- some recievers that have the bind light on at all times will get to hot and loose frequency ....i guess it makes sense just not positive so i added air holes on the sides and bottom
B-the radio tray IMO, makes no sense that it can cause the runaway....runaway is one thing glitch is another....give it some thought
C-- all wires inside the reciever box were all pushed together and smashed ...i think thats my fault...so i took better care this time in routing and bundling....again an Idea
D--i heard....that the lipo battery packs have a circuit board for amp or load draw...not sure but i wont run a lipo till i know i have found what im doing wrong.....

once again an opinion by me
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Old 11-02-2010, 08:18 AM   #953
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i dont think the heat is any problem off road guys run the enclosed box for years to stop mud and dirt and dont have a problem, again them too smash there wires in and dont seem to have a problem but i would do a good job placing the wires and try not to smash them. just some tips some recivers are bigger then others and some of us have to turn the rec upside down so the plugs have more room by the opening of the back side of the rec box, and the antenna wire i would try running on the back side of the rec and up the hole on the front cover dont leave the antenna in the front of the rec with all the smashed wires... also i found yesterday i have been running a flash and the engine sits on the chassis mount fine but yesterday i put my jp eagle in and found the motor sitting on the chassis when i checked y the ears on the side of the motor were u put the screws in are 1mm thinner then the flash so if anyone running older engines with the diff crankcase like a jp or plus 35 or so on check that its not sitting on the chassis this can cause a vibration that would not b good. to fix it i added the keyosho 1mm long shims to raise the motor up...
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Old 11-02-2010, 09:03 AM   #954
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I have not had a runaway unless Joby, lol or someone is not paying attention, I use crystals. I did notice my JP was hitting the chassis so when I got home I milled .05 of the engine and clutch area and it does fit nice now..

I think the off road guys are not having a major problem, which there are guys in our area having problems with all radio's with cars going out of control in off road is that the onroad cars are using so much RPM'S at a longer period of time that it has something to do with sound freq at a high pitch. Since said that I have had over 5 customers have radio problems in the last 2 weeks with new equipment and they have been mostly Spekdrums. Two of my customers sent them back to Spektrum and they took care of it for free and they said the receiver board was warped. They made no sence when one guy used it in a nitro car and the other used in in a electric and only using them less then 15 min each.

I really can't see us blaming the car for this because there is worsed area's that other manufactures placement for receiver.
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Old 11-03-2010, 11:27 AM   #955
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CSO released 7075 T6 Hardcoated pulley & Main Chassis

http://rcmarket.com.hk/
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Old 11-03-2010, 01:16 PM   #956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralphierace13 View Post
i dont think the heat is any problem off road guys run the enclosed box for years to stop mud and dirt and dont have a problem, again them too smash there wires in and dont seem to have a problem but i would do a good job placing the wires and try not to smash them. just some tips some recivers are bigger then others and some of us have to turn the rec upside down so the plugs have more room by the opening of the back side of the rec box, and the antenna wire i would try running on the back side of the rec and up the hole on the front cover dont leave the antenna in the front of the rec with all the smashed wires... also i found yesterday i have been running a flash and the engine sits on the chassis mount fine but yesterday i put my jp eagle in and found the motor sitting on the chassis when i checked y the ears on the side of the motor were u put the screws in are 1mm thinner then the flash so if anyone running older engines with the diff crankcase like a jp or plus 35 or so on check that its not sitting on the chassis this can cause a vibration that would not b good. to fix it i added the keyosho 1mm long shims to raise the motor up...
At the last 1/8 worlds & nationals when they released the 4pk & M11X they had issues with the receivers overheating & that's where the idea came from on reaming holes if you look at the rx box it is very close to the engine with engine temps from 225 to 280 how hot would u think that rx will get up to just a precaution is what I am looking at
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Old 11-03-2010, 01:25 PM   #957
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Overheating of the receiver is a big issue with nitro buggies!! There was a lot of discussion about that in RedRC when Savoya won his second Euro's...

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Old 11-03-2010, 03:47 PM   #958
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lol the receiver is deff not heating up from the engine!! when u driving wind is going throu pushing the heat towards the back if that was the case the middle plastic radio tray mount would melt at 280 and thats closer then the box. if the rec is causing the heat thats a diff story, were over looking something small like 3 years ago i had a glitch that drove me to the point of pouring nitro fuel all over the car and trying to set it on fire and a freind jumped me and stoped me i switched from ko to futuba to airtronics bought a new car new motor and still the same thing, if any one knows the legend chester p after 2 months of this i gave it to him and in 1 hour he found the problem was the 2 screws that held the transponder mount over the front steering servo on the 4 were hitting the aluminum heat sink on the servo and y it didnt go away when i got a new car was cause i used the same mount from the old car so i didnt have to take the transponder off and just put the mount from the old to the new, now we just got word to check the screws that hold the throttle and sterring servo toghter if they are too long and touch something like that can cause it, we got 5 cars here and no one glitching now when we mount our servos we use 1mm counter sink washers so our screws dont touch but guys check them this could a problem.. also re check your whole car the 5 has alot of small screw its easy to mix up a 3x6 and 3x8 u might of put one in the wrong place and if its touching something it will cause it.... i really feel its something small like a screw touching then anything else
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Old 11-03-2010, 06:26 PM   #959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralphierace13 View Post
lol the receiver is deff not heating up from the engine!! when u driving wind is going throu pushing the heat towards the back if that was the case the middle plastic radio tray mount would melt at 280 and thats closer then the box. if the rec is causing the heat thats a diff story, were over looking something small like 3 years ago i had a glitch that drove me to the point of pouring nitro fuel all over the car and trying to set it on fire and a freind jumped me and stoped me i switched from ko to futuba to airtronics bought a new car new motor and still the same thing, if any one knows the legend chester p after 2 months of this i gave it to him and in 1 hour he found the problem was the 2 screws that held the transponder mount over the front steering servo on the 4 were hitting the aluminum heat sink on the servo and y it didnt go away when i got a new car was cause i used the same mount from the old car so i didnt have to take the transponder off and just put the mount from the old to the new, now we just got word to check the screws that hold the throttle and sterring servo toghter if they are too long and touch something like that can cause it, we got 5 cars here and no one glitching now when we mount our servos we use 1mm counter sink washers so our screws dont touch but guys check them this could a problem.. also re check your whole car the 5 has alot of small screw its easy to mix up a 3x6 and 3x8 u might of put one in the wrong place and if its touching something it will cause it.... i really feel its something small like a screw touching then anything else
Ralph we are not debating your issues just a suggestion it is a fact that was addressed on redrc about it before the 5 was even a cad
Just food for thought dude
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Old 11-03-2010, 06:59 PM   #960
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Ralph we are not debating your issues just a suggestion it is a fact that was addressed on redrc about it before the 5 was even a cad
Just food for thought dude
sorry big g i didnt mean it debating either i was laughing thinking of the car melting down on us at 70mph lol.. but i do think its something stupid causing it like a screw touching someone will find it out im sure soon...
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