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Old 10-28-2010, 07:23 PM   #931
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Hi thanks for the replies about adding the weights.

I am also looking for a one piece engine mount for the MRX5, will the 4 one piece engine mount work in the 5?
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:25 PM   #932
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I have seeing people glitching with Airtronics, Futabas and Spektrum. Most of this people was using this same equipment in their 4X without any problem. It's a coincidence? I don't think so. Some guys here are trying to excuse the flaws. It's ok to be super fanatic of a brand, but you cannot hide the sun with a finger, if you know what i am talking about!!
On top of that, this car is miles away from being the tank that the 4X was. This is a fact!! So IMO, for the average Joe like me, i guess the tank called 4X is better, specially in this economy.
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:43 PM   #933
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Originally Posted by miker2209 View Post
I have seeing people glitching with Airtronics, Futabas and Spektrum. Most of this people was using this same equipment in their 4X without any problem. It's a coincidence? I don't think so. Some guys here are trying to excuse the flaws. It's ok to be super fanatic of a brand, but you cannot hide the sun with a finger, if you know what i am talking about!!
On top of that, this car is miles away from being the tank that the 4X was. This is a fact!! So IMO, for the average Joe like me, i guess the tank called 4X is better, specially in this economy.
I want one really bad but I think I will wait till Mugen gets the nicks and nacks out. The 4X is a tank but how long it was before they got there 4, 4R and the 4X.
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Old 10-28-2010, 08:09 PM   #934
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Wow, this whole thing sounds like it is getting out of hand, the MRX 5 car is awe inspiring !! I have gone faster at the race at Ft Myers than I have EVER gone even during the winternats. ( that's my home track)

I run regular sized servos, I'm running a 1400 ni-mh battery pack, Ko radio with a spektrum reciever with GRP tires.

I have had NO radio problems ... ZERO, I have 20 grams of extra weight (car is actually 30 grams heavy) running a R-12 body

Yes, I do have to trim the inside of the rear rims on the truer with the GRPs but they do work very well.

I'm running a 264 width and a 9 droop in the rear without dog bones falling out, I only tighten the belts enough so that they do not "click" when I load the drivetrain by hand and this car is as free as any I have ever spun

If you have a 4, sell it ... get a 5 and you will one VERY happy racer.

The guys you race with will be jealous...

just kidding on that last part .
damm 264 with grp's u must be triming a nice amount of the tire away on the inside to get that width, if u re read what i said i said if u run 266 with a 6 drop not 9 there is a chance of popping out.. far as the belt just enuff so it dont clcik i dont know how u run your mains but im not taking a chance of a belt stretching in a 45 or hour main knowing the belts were tighten enuff just so it dont click... hey im just making some pointers to help us all out if u dont understand me i am 1mill% in love with this car but god is not perfect either i was just pointing a few minor issues out no biggie.... like i said i did the fastest lap times ever on our track this past weekend..
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Old 10-28-2010, 08:25 PM   #935
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Originally Posted by Chubba View Post
Hi thanks for the replies about adding the weights.

I am also looking for a one piece engine mount for the MRX5, will the 4 one piece engine mount work in the 5?
Yes
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Old 10-28-2010, 10:05 PM   #936
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far as the belt just enuff so it dont clcik i dont know how u run your mains but im not taking a chance of a belt stretching in a 45 or hour main knowing the belts were tighten enuff just so it dont click...
I don't know about the 5 but I do know that on the Shepherd, if you set them tight, they strip SOONER. Set the tension so they are fairly loose with no skip and they go an hour or more no problem. Tight, maybe 45 minutes if your lucky. This is for the low friction rubber belts. Standard rear belt seems to like a little tension on it.
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Old 10-28-2010, 10:49 PM   #937
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Anybody know the weight of MRX5 race ready ?
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:30 PM   #938
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Default race ready weight

when i built mine and took it to vegas and weighed it for the first time it was 2474 suppose to be 2525 i put copper battery tray 51g and added another 35g with small tires and i was 15g over but every scale differs track to track...thx
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Old 10-29-2010, 03:57 AM   #939
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when i built mine and took it to vegas and weighed it for the first time it was 2474 suppose to be 2525 i put copper battery tray 51g and added another 35g with small tires and i was 15g over but every scale differs track to track...thx
stick with using all the mugen weights do not use the brass tray it does not allow the chasis to flex the way it was ment to flex that y they put the weights in the front and the rear.
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Old 10-29-2010, 04:30 AM   #940
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I don't know about the 5 but I do know that on the Shepherd, if you set them tight, they strip SOONER. Set the tension so they are fairly loose with no skip and they go an hour or more no problem. Tight, maybe 45 minutes if your lucky. This is for the low friction rubber belts. Standard rear belt seems to like a little tension on it.
i dont know bout low friction but the 4 belt on the 5 i been running it since i got it 4 club races, all those heats countless hours of pratice belt as tight as could b i have not striped one yet..and in my opinion if u did get a rock and loose one or two teeth would u rather have a fairly tight belt with 2 teeth gone or a tight one with 2 teeth gone lol i guess u say tomato i say ta-mado but im from brooklyn lol
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Old 10-29-2010, 04:41 AM   #941
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Originally Posted by miker2209 View Post
I have seeing people glitching with Airtronics, Futabas and Spektrum. Most of this people was using this same equipment in their 4X without any problem. It's a coincidence? I don't think so. Some guys here are trying to excuse the flaws. It's ok to be super fanatic of a brand, but you cannot hide the sun with a finger, if you know what i am talking about!!
On top of that, this car is miles away from being the tank that the 4X was. This is a fact!! So IMO, for the average Joe like me, i guess the tank called 4X is better, specially in this economy.
There were alot posted on what to check for glitching I hope everyone is taking the time to do this .. The screws that go through the rear of the upper deck ( through the bearings ) if these are left loose or not snug the tray will rattle causing glitch. As for being the tank th 4 x was it is not but the front upper arms and pivot ball set up with th 4 x knuckles can be used. Wexare using them in ny with success. IMO any car that has aluminum bulkheads will make arm/ knuckle weaker. No flex but the I wouldn't trade the low resistance bulkheads for anything.
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Old 10-29-2010, 06:15 AM   #942
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Originally Posted by ralphierace13 View Post
stick with using all the mugen weights do not use the brass tray it does not allow the chasis to flex the way it was ment to flex that y they put the weights in the front and the rear.
Actually I find this to be incorrect. I know I have heard people say this before, but brass is a ver soft metal and that it is why it is heavy. I agree it will stiffen the chassis more than a plastic tray however it is not even close to as stiff as the carbon tray.

If you want your car to push put any material stiffner in the front cut outs and you will need to go to 25 shore fronts as apposed to 35 fronts without it.

The cars that finished 2nd 3rd and 4th at the Paris race all ran prot0ype brass or copper battery trays.

You can also put shock orings on the screws between the chassis battery tray if you are afraid it will stiffen it to much. This is absolutely the best place to add weight as it is dead center and bottom of the car for lowest cg possible.
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Old 10-29-2010, 07:17 AM   #943
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Actually I find this to be incorrect. I know I have heard people say this before, but brass is a ver soft metal and that it is why it is heavy. I agree it will stiffen the chassis more than a plastic tray however it is not even close to as stiff as the carbon tray.

If you want your car to push put any material stiffner in the front cut outs and you will need to go to 25 shore fronts as apposed to 35 fronts without it.

The cars that finished 2nd 3rd and 4th at the Paris race all ran prot0ype brass or copper battery trays.

You can also put shock orings on the screws between the chassis battery tray if you are afraid it will stiffen it to much. This is absolutely the best place to add weight as it is dead center and bottom of the car for lowest cg possible.
i wrote before i cant say bout the brass tray i never tested it this is what i was told from very hi up in the chain of command far as the other weights i did the testing yesterday with all the weights in and 38 shore at 6 at night on a cold track were i only run 35 shore when its perfect temp and the car stuck like glue it act dove into the turns better with the added weight up front...
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Old 10-29-2010, 07:44 AM   #944
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i wrote before i cant say bout the brass tray i never tested it this is what i was told from very hi up in the chain of command far as the other weights i did the testing yesterday with all the weights in and 38 shore at 6 at night on a cold track were i only run 35 shore when its perfect temp and the car stuck like glue it act dove into the turns better with the added weight up front...
Sometimes different track coditions will yield different results.

All I am saying as an engineer is that brass is no where near as stiff as carbon fiber.

Therefore chassis flex would be more with the brass than the carbon fiber. This is simple fact and not an opinion on what it makes the car do. Try it for yourself you may like it. Like I said different track conditions and setup of the rest of the car will certainly contribute.
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Old 10-29-2010, 07:58 AM   #945
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I run the small servos and light wheels but 1600 nimh batt. I have to add 30 gram on the sides and 20 grams on the back. Running 30 mins, I am still 2530g

I think if I made to A main running 45mins, I may be under weight.
We have at least 20 MRX5 at the FEMCA and non run away I know of, but I did not see anyone using spektrum control. I switched radio (to 4pks) for the car and never look back. The car is easy to go fast and stay fast.
The TQ car was a MRX5 and he used M11x so
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