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Old 10-04-2010, 06:40 PM   #766
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Default MRX5 FRONT END

If you are not sure about the new front end you can install the mrx4x upper arms and knuckles they will work fine . dont put in the 1mm spacer in under the tierod end if you do this . we have one of our team mugen northeast drivers that has done this . everything lines up the same as new front end. prebuilt mike swauger mrx5 available this week !


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Old 10-04-2010, 06:40 PM   #767
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Its good to see that you have narrowed the selection down to two cars.

Glad to see that you have cut the "S" from the list.
give it up !!!!
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Old 10-04-2010, 06:58 PM   #768
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Hence why ill wait till some more upgrades are sorted, cheers for help guys good to know they are onto it =)
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Old 10-05-2010, 04:24 AM   #769
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hey guys a note on the rear swaybar..the collars that go into the bearings on the bulkhead that hold the sway bar, well one side of the collar has an opening so it can make the bend on the swaybar to go on and off, well there is 2 sides u can put the set screw u have to check this for some reason when u put the set screw in one side it sort of bends the collar out alittle bit and the collar dont sit perfectly flush against the bearing and in turn will tweak the sway bar so check if the collars are flush if not remove the set screw and put it into the other side it has something to do with the opening in the collar. also note make sure the sway bar is even on both sides of the collars as it will also cause a tweak on eaither side....
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Old 10-05-2010, 10:45 AM   #770
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Sounds to me like the set screw needs to be in the same side as the cut out. If you put it on the opposite side from the cutout, there is not much material there to support being pulled up tight against the bar and could bend it.

Haven't built one though so could be wrong.
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Old 10-05-2010, 01:23 PM   #771
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Sounds to me like the set screw needs to be in the same side as the cut out. If you put it on the opposite side from the cutout, there is not much material there to support being pulled up tight against the bar and could bend it.

Haven't built one though so could be wrong.
The screws are 90 degs to the cut out. Had no issue with this when mine went together(lucked out?). I'll flip them tonight just out of curiousity.
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Old 10-05-2010, 01:40 PM   #772
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The screws are 90 degs to the cut out. Had no issue with this when mine went together(lucked out?). I'll flip them tonight just out of curiousity.
In that case, I have no idea what's going on. Probably just need to be careful and not put the gorilla grip on them
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Old 10-05-2010, 02:03 PM   #773
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Hi Guys,

Motonica driver here soon to make a switch either to MRX5 or Kyosho, but how strong is the front end of the MRX5, i hear small mistake going off can cause DNF's we did see this from a Top Aussie driver in Amain

Curiouse to find out others in how they have made mistakes going off have they recovered or have they found themselves with front end weakness

Regards
Frankie
Hey Frankie,

You know how hard i pushed my car throughout the nationals weekend!! I don't really think the front end is any weaker than the current crop of cars... the MRX4X was just a tank! you could drive that thing through a concrete wall and it would be ok!

Also if ur considering the K car, there is ZERO support for it in AU now! None of the top runners are using it anymore, the distributor doesn't carry parts... The Mugen distributor is down the street from us, ppl are running it in the club and at the top level so there is alot of setup/parts support it needed
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Old 10-05-2010, 04:14 PM   #774
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Sounds to me like the set screw needs to be in the same side as the cut out. If you put it on the opposite side from the cutout, there is not much material there to support being pulled up tight against the bar and could bend it.

Haven't built one though so could be wrong.
u know what u hit it right on the head i didnt know how to explain it like that but i believe by george u got it.. would of been nice if that was in the mugen instructions!! saved me a week of tweaking the swaybar!!
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Old 10-05-2010, 11:53 PM   #775
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Double post - anyone?

how about gearing the 5 - did the internal drive ratio change? If I know my preferred gearing for a given track (e.g. 20/45 2nd gear) can I use that on the 5 as well?

Thanks a lot, Stefan
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Old 10-06-2010, 04:55 AM   #776
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u know what u hit it right on the head i didnt know how to explain it like that but i believe by george u got it.. would of been nice if that was in the mugen instructions!! saved me a week of tweaking the swaybar!!
Blue locktite, use your thumb and index finger on the wrench.
I had an issue with the clutch spacing, turned out it was the collet on the crank. Must use the short 5.5mm nov20000 collet.
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Old 10-06-2010, 06:16 AM   #777
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Double post - anyone?

how about gearing the 5 - did the internal drive ratio change? If I know my preferred gearing for a given track (e.g. 20/45 2nd gear) can I use that on the 5 as well?

Thanks a lot, Stefan
Stefan,
The larger side pulleys change the internal drive ratios. This only affects the final drive ratio for the front. The rear has not changed from the MRX4.

Basically you're going to have a different overdrive ratio. (MRX5= 0.895 versus MRX4= 0.868) You're going to have to judge for yourself if there is enough difference to feel it while driving.

Cheers.

PS. I just checked the 28 tooth side pulley. It has a closer ratio to the MRX4 (MRX5=0.864, MRX4=same as above)

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Old 10-07-2010, 06:00 AM   #778
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cant wait for tomm my hand built mike swagger edition with his set up is coming in i will be testing it all weekend as for 70 and sunny all weekend here in ny and racing it this sunday!!!!..
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Old 10-07-2010, 08:27 AM   #779
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Can someone tell me what are the size of the pulleys are they the same as the 4X (26T,16T,20T,18T)
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:21 AM   #780
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Can someone tell me what are the size of the pulleys are they the same as the 4X (26T,16T,20T,18T)
From what I understand, the rear is the same but front and side are different.
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