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Old 10-10-2011, 02:13 AM   #2311
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On throttle you will have more steer, off throttle it can make the car a bit unstable at the rear (difference front/rear gives a friction in driveline). It is a setting normally used on smal tracks with lots of corners.

But you must give it a try what you think is best for you.
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Old 10-11-2011, 12:26 AM   #2312
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Anybody know what the different block do to the car? I am referring to the blocks that are on the top of the front steering blocks that links to the upper front arm...

Thanks in advance
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:44 AM   #2313
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You have to look at the front up-rite from the side as well as dead ahead to see the change in angles that the position of the plate causes. The line will go thru the center of both piviot balls.
H2111 would be the middle setting. A balance of camber gain, roll center and scrub
H2130 hole to the inside. Aggressive turn in, a little more camber gain as the wheel is turned due to the "line" being leaned in toward the chassis which seems to off-set the loss of side bite the shorter arm will cause. I really like the car with these plates, 2mm shim under upper outer arms pivot ball, hinge pins up...
H2130 hole out side. Less response, smoother entry and you may see a slight loss of side bite due to the loss of some camber gain. This could be fixed with the clips. Have not tested this, it's effect I find undesirable.
H2131 hole forward. Your really laying the axle back, lots of side bite, very smoooooth corner entry, very stable front end. Ran the car with these on at our first state race at Homestead. If the bite would have been really high I would have left them on. The car was like butter. Due to the increase in side bite you get to soften up the rear end to generate more mechanical grip and I ended up with a STUCK buttery smooth car. This is not for Fort Myres. Think big and flowing track.
H2131 hole towards rear. Have not ran it this way. Should provide similar results as moving the upper arm all the way forward. Violent steering response with side bite that may fade the deeper into the turn you are, you should be able to help regain some side bite with castor and static camber.
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Old 10-11-2011, 07:12 AM   #2314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MugenDrew View Post
You have to look at the front up-rite from the side as well as dead ahead to see the change in angles that the position of the plate causes. The line will go thru the center of both piviot balls.
H2111 would be the middle setting. A balance of camber gain, roll center and scrub
H2130 hole to the inside. Aggressive turn in, a little more camber gain as the wheel is turned due to the "line" being leaned in toward the chassis which seems to off-set the loss of side bite the shorter arm will cause. I really like the car with these plates, 2mm shim under upper outer arms pivot ball, hinge pins up...
H2130 hole out side. Less response, smoother entry and you may see a slight loss of side bite due to the loss of some camber gain. This could be fixed with the clips. Have not tested this, it's effect I find undesirable.
H2131 hole forward. Your really laying the axle back, lots of side bite, very smoooooth corner entry, very stable front end. Ran the car with these on at our first state race at Homestead. If the bite would have been really high I would have left them on. The car was like butter. Due to the increase in side bite you get to soften up the rear end to generate more mechanical grip and I ended up with a STUCK buttery smooth car. This is not for Fort Myres. Think big and flowing track.
H2131 hole inside. Have not ran it this way. Should provide similar results as moving the upper arm all the way forward. Violent steering response with side bite that may fade the deeper into the turn you are, you should be able to help regain some side bite with castor and static camber.
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:57 AM   #2315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MugenDrew View Post
You have to look at the front up-rite from the side as well as dead ahead to see the change in angles that the position of the plate causes. The line will go thru the center of both piviot balls.
H2111 would be the middle setting. A balance of camber gain, roll center and scrub
H2130 hole to the inside. Aggressive turn in, a little more camber gain as the wheel is turned due to the "line" being leaned in toward the chassis which seems to off-set the loss of side bite the shorter arm will cause. I really like the car with these plates, 2mm shim under upper outer arms pivot ball, hinge pins up...
H2130 hole out side. Less response, smoother entry and you may see a slight loss of side bite due to the loss of some camber gain. This could be fixed with the clips. Have not tested this, it's effect I find undesirable.
H2131 hole forward. Your really laying the axle back, lots of side bite, very smoooooth corner entry, very stable front end. Ran the car with these on at our first state race at Homestead. If the bite would have been really high I would have left them on. The car was like butter. Due to the increase in side bite you get to soften up the rear end to generate more mechanical grip and I ended up with a STUCK buttery smooth car. This is not for Fort Myres. Think big and flowing track.
H2131 hole inside. Have not ran it this way. Should provide similar results as moving the upper arm all the way forward. Violent steering response with side bite that may fade the deeper into the turn you are, you should be able to help regain some side bite with castor and static camber.
Thanks!
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Old 10-12-2011, 03:01 PM   #2316
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The 2 Tungsten battery weights listed below I am selling if any of your MRX5 guys are interested.

I sold my MRX5, and no longer need the weights

I only have the 2 plates I made for my car and a friends.

100$ each + shipping ( cost to make 2 was about 440 the plate it self was almost 200 un cut they are in perfect shape)

PM me if interested

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Originally Posted by Vector03cobra View Post
Ok This started as 4 x 4 x .250

Here are my 2 weights I had made out of tungsten and my brass weight.

The brass weight is 40g

The 2 Tungsten weights are 148 each.

The thickness of the brass weight is 2.0mm

The thickness of my tungsten weights are 3.25

Here are the pictures.





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Old 10-12-2011, 09:12 PM   #2317
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Wanted to know if you guys place body clips to allow the body to rest on it at the front body posts, or just let the body rest on the bumper itself ?
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:00 AM   #2318
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Arrowmax released Clutch Shoe
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Old 10-14-2011, 05:55 AM   #2319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Backspace. View Post
Wanted to know if you guys place body clips to allow the body to rest on it at the front body posts, or just let the body rest on the bumper itself ?
I do use clips under the body, but they do not touch the body on the P909 when at rest. The R15B they do touch ever so slightly. So Its sitting on the bumper for the most part.
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Old 10-15-2011, 03:27 PM   #2320
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Special: http://www.kamikazercracing.com/prod...p?prod=MRX5kit
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Old 10-17-2011, 06:26 AM   #2321
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The season has come to an end in the Northeast. The final race was the Sky Rocket Invitational held in Delaware. The MRX-5 finished 1st, 2nd, 3rd in the A-main .
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:18 AM   #2322
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Quote:
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The season has come to an end in the Northeast. The final race was the Sky Rocket Invitational held in Delaware. The MRX-5 finished 1st, 2nd, 3rd in the A-main .
Good job man! You Ralph and Chris held it down!!
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Old 10-18-2011, 07:30 PM   #2323
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hi guys, is the front and rear belts of mrx4x is the same for mrx5 thank you.
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Old 10-18-2011, 07:45 PM   #2324
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car looks nice
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:14 AM   #2325
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Quote:
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hi guys, is the front and rear belts of mrx4x is the same for mrx5 thank you.
Not exactly, the rear is the same but the front is different.
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