MUGEN SEIKI MRX5
#2236
#2237
Tech Elite
iTrader: (36)
Ran the car this weekend at Arcadia with the new front arms and the new clutch.
I'm embarrassed to say but the arms did get tested. I was low on tires on the last lap of the qualy and hit a ripple in the asphalt on the straightaway which lifted the front sending the car HARD into the boards. I thought for sure the car was broke. When my pit guy picked it up I saw nothing hanging. Things were looking up, all that happened was I knocked the INS box off.
Sean my team mate on his second lap in warm up forgot about the hole tires need to get hot deal and sent his car sideways against the wall at the turn at the end of the straight, w.f.o. 20/45 and she was honking. Everybody in the pit lane including myself uttered "that one's broke". Ran around the track picked the car up and only found the steering tie-rod popped off it's ball. I snapped it back on and in the end Sean had improved his time by four seconds. Thanks Mugen.
I'm not saying it's bullet proof, but you're gonna have to do something pretty stupid to break it.
The tell all will be when we get to the old metal monster known as "The Fort". I don't care how good you are, your going to hit something at The Fort. It is inevitable.
The new clutch. This is a MUST HAVE! If you squeeze the trigger it is smoother than the MRX-4-X clutch. If you hammer the throttle it is twice as violent as the MRX-3 clutch. The new spring is identical to the Shepherd spring. The combination of the I.D.M. RCW and this new clutch is &#$king AWESOME. I'm still grinning about it. HELL YEAH!
I'm embarrassed to say but the arms did get tested. I was low on tires on the last lap of the qualy and hit a ripple in the asphalt on the straightaway which lifted the front sending the car HARD into the boards. I thought for sure the car was broke. When my pit guy picked it up I saw nothing hanging. Things were looking up, all that happened was I knocked the INS box off.
Sean my team mate on his second lap in warm up forgot about the hole tires need to get hot deal and sent his car sideways against the wall at the turn at the end of the straight, w.f.o. 20/45 and she was honking. Everybody in the pit lane including myself uttered "that one's broke". Ran around the track picked the car up and only found the steering tie-rod popped off it's ball. I snapped it back on and in the end Sean had improved his time by four seconds. Thanks Mugen.
I'm not saying it's bullet proof, but you're gonna have to do something pretty stupid to break it.
The tell all will be when we get to the old metal monster known as "The Fort". I don't care how good you are, your going to hit something at The Fort. It is inevitable.
The new clutch. This is a MUST HAVE! If you squeeze the trigger it is smoother than the MRX-4-X clutch. If you hammer the throttle it is twice as violent as the MRX-3 clutch. The new spring is identical to the Shepherd spring. The combination of the I.D.M. RCW and this new clutch is &#$king AWESOME. I'm still grinning about it. HELL YEAH!
#2239
Tech Elite
iTrader: (36)
I'm going to drill a set at 3.25mm and 3mm to test. I need to test.
It reacts differently to what adjustments I did make and I really need to explore each adjustments effects. Big thumbs up, brilliant idea...
#2240
I also ran the new clutch setup at the X-Ray race in Chaplin CT this weekend.
Drew is correct in saying that it is smooth when you roll it and has good punch if your a clamper.
I ran .4 gap / stock spring and stock weights. Spring was adjusted to 1.3
I ran the shoe all day and only wore .02 no dust what so ever.
I will admit at first i was using a bad bell and dusted 2 shoes in 4 runs. I changed the bell and the dusting went away.
Drew is correct in saying that it is smooth when you roll it and has good punch if your a clamper.
I ran .4 gap / stock spring and stock weights. Spring was adjusted to 1.3
I ran the shoe all day and only wore .02 no dust what so ever.
I will admit at first i was using a bad bell and dusted 2 shoes in 4 runs. I changed the bell and the dusting went away.
#2242
I could only see adding weight if you are running on a low bite surface.
Light weights with the stock spring will almost definately dust the shoe.
Light weights with the stock spring will almost definately dust the shoe.
#2243
Tech Elite
iTrader: (36)
@ Andrew, thanks for posting that info.
@ choisan, no drill one hole by hand in each weight at the dot that is furthest away from the existing hole for the flywheel pin. After what Andrew posted I ASSuming here, but I think 3mm is gonna be the winner. I don't want to see the spring anywhere near coil bind.
@ choisan, no drill one hole by hand in each weight at the dot that is furthest away from the existing hole for the flywheel pin. After what Andrew posted I ASSuming here, but I think 3mm is gonna be the winner. I don't want to see the spring anywhere near coil bind.
#2246
This seems to be a good starting point.
Greg Esser
#2248
Tech Regular
WC no 58/180
Having a dilemma whether to run it or not..
#2249
Tech Elite
iTrader: (52)
Just about completed building the car, and I think this is a record.....did not need to pull out the reamer or dremel once
Not sure if Mugen have addressed the side belt tension issue with these new batches, but I have mine set to only about 1/2 way and it is super tight (plenty more room to tighten when the belt loosens up).
One question I do have is regarding the rear axle.The instructions are not 100% clear with where the large e-clip should go. Initially I put it in position "A", as I thought it would prevent the brake disc from falling off, but then moved it to position "B" as I though it prevents the rear axle from floating side to side. It fits in both slots, anyone know which is the right one - see photo.
Finally, is the slight binding on the braking system fairly common? I assume that after a few runs it will loosen right up, but I can see there isn't much room between the two pads and disc.
Not sure if Mugen have addressed the side belt tension issue with these new batches, but I have mine set to only about 1/2 way and it is super tight (plenty more room to tighten when the belt loosens up).
One question I do have is regarding the rear axle.The instructions are not 100% clear with where the large e-clip should go. Initially I put it in position "A", as I thought it would prevent the brake disc from falling off, but then moved it to position "B" as I though it prevents the rear axle from floating side to side. It fits in both slots, anyone know which is the right one - see photo.
Finally, is the slight binding on the braking system fairly common? I assume that after a few runs it will loosen right up, but I can see there isn't much room between the two pads and disc.
#2250
Just about completed building the car, and I think this is a record.....did not need to pull out the reamer or dremel once
Not sure if Mugen have addressed the side belt tension issue with these new batches, but I have mine set to only about 1/2 way and it is super tight (plenty more room to tighten when the belt loosens up).
One question I do have is regarding the rear axle.The instructions are not 100% clear with where the large e-clip should go. Initially I put it in position "A", as I thought it would prevent the brake disc from falling off, but then moved it to position "B" as I though it prevents the rear axle from floating side to side. It fits in both slots, anyone know which is the right one - see photo.
Finally, is the slight binding on the braking system fairly common? I assume that after a few runs it will loosen right up, but I can see there isn't much room between the two pads and disc.
Not sure if Mugen have addressed the side belt tension issue with these new batches, but I have mine set to only about 1/2 way and it is super tight (plenty more room to tighten when the belt loosens up).
One question I do have is regarding the rear axle.The instructions are not 100% clear with where the large e-clip should go. Initially I put it in position "A", as I thought it would prevent the brake disc from falling off, but then moved it to position "B" as I though it prevents the rear axle from floating side to side. It fits in both slots, anyone know which is the right one - see photo.
Finally, is the slight binding on the braking system fairly common? I assume that after a few runs it will loosen right up, but I can see there isn't much room between the two pads and disc.