R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-10-2011, 06:10 PM   #2236
occ
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 570
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rave1010hk View Post
My MRX5 WC LIMITED EDITION No:68/180
Thanks for the sharing your pics. Could you please tell me what the H2707 Adjustment Guide says? I have this clutch system but it doesn't come with any instructions.
occ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2011, 06:23 AM   #2237
Tech Elite
 
MugenDrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Apollo Beach, Florida
Posts: 2,060
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Ran the car this weekend at Arcadia with the new front arms and the new clutch.
I'm embarrassed to say but the arms did get tested. I was low on tires on the last lap of the qualy and hit a ripple in the asphalt on the straightaway which lifted the front sending the car HARD into the boards. I thought for sure the car was broke. When my pit guy picked it up I saw nothing hanging. Things were looking up, all that happened was I knocked the INS box off.
Sean my team mate on his second lap in warm up forgot about the hole tires need to get hot deal and sent his car sideways against the wall at the turn at the end of the straight, w.f.o. 20/45 and she was honking. Everybody in the pit lane including myself uttered "that one's broke". Ran around the track picked the car up and only found the steering tie-rod popped off it's ball. I snapped it back on and in the end Sean had improved his time by four seconds. Thanks Mugen.
I'm not saying it's bullet proof, but you're gonna have to do something pretty stupid to break it.
The tell all will be when we get to the old metal monster known as "The Fort". I don't care how good you are, your going to hit something at The Fort. It is inevitable.
The new clutch. This is a MUST HAVE! If you squeeze the trigger it is smoother than the MRX-4-X clutch. If you hammer the throttle it is twice as violent as the MRX-3 clutch. The new spring is identical to the Shepherd spring. The combination of the I.D.M. RCW and this new clutch is &#$king AWESOME. I'm still grinning about it. HELL YEAH!
__________________
MUGEN SEIKI NOVA ROSSI ENETTI TYRES HUDY PROFESSIONAL TOOLS
BYRONS FUEL AIRTRONICS RADIO EQUIPMENT PROTOFORM RACE BODIES
MUGEN RACING RC AMERICA AKA RACING NUGGETS RACING DESOTO RACING
MugenDrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2011, 06:29 AM   #2238
Tech Master
 
choisan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 1,212
Default

great news! i am waiting to test my new clutch too, are you running the same setting as the original clutch?
choisan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2011, 08:16 AM   #2239
Tech Elite
 
MugenDrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Apollo Beach, Florida
Posts: 2,060
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by choisan View Post
great news! i am waiting to test my new clutch too, are you running the same setting as the original clutch?
I initially had flyweights drilled at 4mm and this was just to lite for the new spring, bell clearance at .4mm and the spring at 1mm. It powdered, so I put the 3.5mm in it and ran it the rest of the day that way. 3.5mm, clearance at .4mm and the spring ended up at .8mm. End up qualifying 3rd and finished second in the race behind Sean (teammate) who was running the same set-up.
I'm going to drill a set at 3.25mm and 3mm to test. I need to test.
It reacts differently to what adjustments I did make and I really need to explore each adjustments effects. Big thumbs up, brilliant idea...
__________________
MUGEN SEIKI NOVA ROSSI ENETTI TYRES HUDY PROFESSIONAL TOOLS
BYRONS FUEL AIRTRONICS RADIO EQUIPMENT PROTOFORM RACE BODIES
MUGEN RACING RC AMERICA AKA RACING NUGGETS RACING DESOTO RACING
MugenDrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2011, 08:48 AM   #2240
Tech Adept
 
AndrewNicholas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 236
Default

I also ran the new clutch setup at the X-Ray race in Chaplin CT this weekend.
Drew is correct in saying that it is smooth when you roll it and has good punch if your a clamper.

I ran .4 gap / stock spring and stock weights. Spring was adjusted to 1.3
I ran the shoe all day and only wore .02 no dust what so ever.
I will admit at first i was using a bad bell and dusted 2 shoes in 4 runs. I changed the bell and the dusting went away.
__________________
Kosmic RC Fuel / Ashford Hobby / TQ Racing Wire / Desoto Racing/ Team Speed Merchant / Team Scream Racing / All Butter Racing
AndrewNicholas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2011, 09:10 AM   #2241
Tech Master
 
choisan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 1,212
Default

thanks so much bros! but what is the factory suggested? i want to test and try it out from what instruction said.
hey drew, drew 2 more holes of 3.5mm from each flyweight?
choisan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2011, 09:15 AM   #2242
Tech Adept
 
AndrewNicholas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 236
Default

I could only see adding weight if you are running on a low bite surface.
Light weights with the stock spring will almost definately dust the shoe.
__________________
Kosmic RC Fuel / Ashford Hobby / TQ Racing Wire / Desoto Racing/ Team Speed Merchant / Team Scream Racing / All Butter Racing
AndrewNicholas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2011, 10:38 AM   #2243
Tech Elite
 
MugenDrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Apollo Beach, Florida
Posts: 2,060
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

@ Andrew, thanks for posting that info.
@ choisan, no drill one hole by hand in each weight at the dot that is furthest away from the existing hole for the flywheel pin. After what Andrew posted I ASSuming here, but I think 3mm is gonna be the winner. I don't want to see the spring anywhere near coil bind.
__________________
MUGEN SEIKI NOVA ROSSI ENETTI TYRES HUDY PROFESSIONAL TOOLS
BYRONS FUEL AIRTRONICS RADIO EQUIPMENT PROTOFORM RACE BODIES
MUGEN RACING RC AMERICA AKA RACING NUGGETS RACING DESOTO RACING
MugenDrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2011, 10:53 AM   #2244
Tech Master
 
choisan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 1,212
Default

Will definitely try that this weekend, thanks!
choisan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2011, 06:54 PM   #2245
Tech Elite
 
Michael_T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 4,031
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to Michael_T
Default

Anyone have a rough idea of how far out the gearbox screws need to be as a base setting? The manual gives no real indication. 3 turns out from close?

Half way through the build, what quality!!! Everything goes together so well
__________________
Shepherd RC | Brilliant RC | Arrowmax | Xtreme Aerodynamics | Matrix | Tectrade TTB

BlueRC | www.bluerc.net
Michael_T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2011, 07:32 PM   #2246
Tech Addict
 
gesser26's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Pompano Beach, Florida
Posts: 532
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Anyone have a rough idea of how far out the gearbox screws need to be as a base setting? The manual gives no real indication. 3 turns out from close?

Half way through the build, what quality!!! Everything goes together so well
I have always turn the screw in until the backside is flush with the 2-speed.
This seems to be a good starting point.
Greg Esser
gesser26 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2011, 07:45 PM   #2247
Tech Elite
 
Michael_T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 4,031
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to Michael_T
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gesser26 View Post
I have always turn the screw in until the backside is flush with the 2-speed.
This seems to be a good starting point.
Greg Esser
Thanks Greg.
__________________
Shepherd RC | Brilliant RC | Arrowmax | Xtreme Aerodynamics | Matrix | Tectrade TTB

BlueRC | www.bluerc.net
Michael_T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2011, 05:07 AM   #2248
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 228
Default WC no 58/180

Having a dilemma whether to run it or not..
Attached Thumbnails
MUGEN SEIKI MRX5-2011-08-13-16.41.01.jpg  
tq23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2011, 06:05 AM   #2249
Tech Elite
 
Michael_T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 4,031
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to Michael_T
Default

Just about completed building the car, and I think this is a record.....did not need to pull out the reamer or dremel once

Not sure if Mugen have addressed the side belt tension issue with these new batches, but I have mine set to only about 1/2 way and it is super tight (plenty more room to tighten when the belt loosens up).

One question I do have is regarding the rear axle.The instructions are not 100% clear with where the large e-clip should go. Initially I put it in position "A", as I thought it would prevent the brake disc from falling off, but then moved it to position "B" as I though it prevents the rear axle from floating side to side. It fits in both slots, anyone know which is the right one - see photo.

Finally, is the slight binding on the braking system fairly common? I assume that after a few runs it will loosen right up, but I can see there isn't much room between the two pads and disc.
Attached Thumbnails
MUGEN SEIKI MRX5-mugen.jpg  
__________________
Shepherd RC | Brilliant RC | Arrowmax | Xtreme Aerodynamics | Matrix | Tectrade TTB

BlueRC | www.bluerc.net
Michael_T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2011, 07:09 AM   #2250
Tech Addict
 
walo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Land of Make Believe
Posts: 655
Send a message via Yahoo to walo
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Just about completed building the car, and I think this is a record.....did not need to pull out the reamer or dremel once

Not sure if Mugen have addressed the side belt tension issue with these new batches, but I have mine set to only about 1/2 way and it is super tight (plenty more room to tighten when the belt loosens up).

One question I do have is regarding the rear axle.The instructions are not 100% clear with where the large e-clip should go. Initially I put it in position "A", as I thought it would prevent the brake disc from falling off, but then moved it to position "B" as I though it prevents the rear axle from floating side to side. It fits in both slots, anyone know which is the right one - see photo.

Finally, is the slight binding on the braking system fairly common? I assume that after a few runs it will loosen right up, but I can see there isn't much room between the two pads and disc.
That C-clip goes to the outter most slot. It prevents the axle from sliding from side to side. Actually it rest against the bearings on both sides.
walo is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Adelaide Nitro On Road Littlehampton Kodak Hodak Australian Racing 2503 09-19-2014 08:08 PM
MTX 5 seb1109 Nitro On-Road 3141 09-10-2014 10:24 AM
Mugen MRX5? straightaway Nitro On-Road 140 08-23-2007 09:49 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:46 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0