Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road
MUGEN SEIKI MRX5 >

MUGEN SEIKI MRX5

Like Tree3Likes

MUGEN SEIKI MRX5

Old 08-10-2011, 05:10 PM
  #2236  
occ
Tech Addict
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 576
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rave1010hk
My MRX5 WC LIMITED EDITION No:68/180
Thanks for the sharing your pics. Could you please tell me what the H2707 Adjustment Guide says? I have this clutch system but it doesn't come with any instructions.
occ is offline  
Old 08-16-2011, 05:23 AM
  #2237  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (36)
 
MugenDrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Apollo Beach, Florida
Posts: 2,152
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Ran the car this weekend at Arcadia with the new front arms and the new clutch.
I'm embarrassed to say but the arms did get tested. I was low on tires on the last lap of the qualy and hit a ripple in the asphalt on the straightaway which lifted the front sending the car HARD into the boards. I thought for sure the car was broke. When my pit guy picked it up I saw nothing hanging. Things were looking up, all that happened was I knocked the INS box off.
Sean my team mate on his second lap in warm up forgot about the hole tires need to get hot deal and sent his car sideways against the wall at the turn at the end of the straight, w.f.o. 20/45 and she was honking. Everybody in the pit lane including myself uttered "that one's broke". Ran around the track picked the car up and only found the steering tie-rod popped off it's ball. I snapped it back on and in the end Sean had improved his time by four seconds. Thanks Mugen.
I'm not saying it's bullet proof, but you're gonna have to do something pretty stupid to break it.
The tell all will be when we get to the old metal monster known as "The Fort". I don't care how good you are, your going to hit something at The Fort. It is inevitable.
The new clutch. This is a MUST HAVE! If you squeeze the trigger it is smoother than the MRX-4-X clutch. If you hammer the throttle it is twice as violent as the MRX-3 clutch. The new spring is identical to the Shepherd spring. The combination of the I.D.M. RCW and this new clutch is &#$king AWESOME. I'm still grinning about it. HELL YEAH!
MugenDrew is offline  
Old 08-16-2011, 05:29 AM
  #2238  
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
 
choisan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 1,892
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

great news! i am waiting to test my new clutch too, are you running the same setting as the original clutch?
choisan is offline  
Old 08-16-2011, 07:16 AM
  #2239  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (36)
 
MugenDrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Apollo Beach, Florida
Posts: 2,152
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by choisan
great news! i am waiting to test my new clutch too, are you running the same setting as the original clutch?
I initially had flyweights drilled at 4mm and this was just to lite for the new spring, bell clearance at .4mm and the spring at 1mm. It powdered, so I put the 3.5mm in it and ran it the rest of the day that way. 3.5mm, clearance at .4mm and the spring ended up at .8mm. End up qualifying 3rd and finished second in the race behind Sean (teammate) who was running the same set-up.
I'm going to drill a set at 3.25mm and 3mm to test. I need to test.
It reacts differently to what adjustments I did make and I really need to explore each adjustments effects. Big thumbs up, brilliant idea...
MugenDrew is offline  
Old 08-16-2011, 07:48 AM
  #2240  
Tech Adept
 
AndrewNicholas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 236
Default

I also ran the new clutch setup at the X-Ray race in Chaplin CT this weekend.
Drew is correct in saying that it is smooth when you roll it and has good punch if your a clamper.

I ran .4 gap / stock spring and stock weights. Spring was adjusted to 1.3
I ran the shoe all day and only wore .02 no dust what so ever.
I will admit at first i was using a bad bell and dusted 2 shoes in 4 runs. I changed the bell and the dusting went away.
AndrewNicholas is offline  
Old 08-16-2011, 08:10 AM
  #2241  
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
 
choisan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 1,892
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

thanks so much bros! but what is the factory suggested? i want to test and try it out from what instruction said.
hey drew, drew 2 more holes of 3.5mm from each flyweight?
choisan is offline  
Old 08-16-2011, 08:15 AM
  #2242  
Tech Adept
 
AndrewNicholas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 236
Default

I could only see adding weight if you are running on a low bite surface.
Light weights with the stock spring will almost definately dust the shoe.
AndrewNicholas is offline  
Old 08-16-2011, 09:38 AM
  #2243  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (36)
 
MugenDrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Apollo Beach, Florida
Posts: 2,152
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

@ Andrew, thanks for posting that info.
@ choisan, no drill one hole by hand in each weight at the dot that is furthest away from the existing hole for the flywheel pin. After what Andrew posted I ASSuming here, but I think 3mm is gonna be the winner. I don't want to see the spring anywhere near coil bind.
MugenDrew is offline  
Old 08-16-2011, 09:53 AM
  #2244  
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
 
choisan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 1,892
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Will definitely try that this weekend, thanks!
choisan is offline  
Old 08-16-2011, 05:54 PM
  #2245  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (52)
 
Michael_T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 4,234
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Anyone have a rough idea of how far out the gearbox screws need to be as a base setting? The manual gives no real indication. 3 turns out from close?

Half way through the build, what quality!!! Everything goes together so well
Michael_T is offline  
Old 08-16-2011, 06:32 PM
  #2246  
Tech Addict
 
gesser26's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Pompano Beach, Florida
Posts: 649
Default

Originally Posted by Novarossi
Anyone have a rough idea of how far out the gearbox screws need to be as a base setting? The manual gives no real indication. 3 turns out from close?

Half way through the build, what quality!!! Everything goes together so well
I have always turn the screw in until the backside is flush with the 2-speed.
This seems to be a good starting point.
Greg Esser
gesser26 is offline  
Old 08-16-2011, 06:45 PM
  #2247  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (52)
 
Michael_T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 4,234
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by gesser26
I have always turn the screw in until the backside is flush with the 2-speed.
This seems to be a good starting point.
Greg Esser
Thanks Greg.
Michael_T is offline  
Old 08-17-2011, 04:07 AM
  #2248  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 251
Default WC no 58/180

Having a dilemma whether to run it or not..
Attached Thumbnails MUGEN SEIKI MRX5-2011-08-13-16.41.01.jpg  
tq23 is offline  
Old 08-18-2011, 05:05 AM
  #2249  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (52)
 
Michael_T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 4,234
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Just about completed building the car, and I think this is a record.....did not need to pull out the reamer or dremel once

Not sure if Mugen have addressed the side belt tension issue with these new batches, but I have mine set to only about 1/2 way and it is super tight (plenty more room to tighten when the belt loosens up).

One question I do have is regarding the rear axle.The instructions are not 100% clear with where the large e-clip should go. Initially I put it in position "A", as I thought it would prevent the brake disc from falling off, but then moved it to position "B" as I though it prevents the rear axle from floating side to side. It fits in both slots, anyone know which is the right one - see photo.

Finally, is the slight binding on the braking system fairly common? I assume that after a few runs it will loosen right up, but I can see there isn't much room between the two pads and disc.
Attached Thumbnails MUGEN SEIKI MRX5-mugen.jpg  
Michael_T is offline  
Old 08-18-2011, 06:09 AM
  #2250  
Tech Addict
 
walo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Land of Make Believe
Posts: 668
Default

Originally Posted by Novarossi
Just about completed building the car, and I think this is a record.....did not need to pull out the reamer or dremel once

Not sure if Mugen have addressed the side belt tension issue with these new batches, but I have mine set to only about 1/2 way and it is super tight (plenty more room to tighten when the belt loosens up).

One question I do have is regarding the rear axle.The instructions are not 100% clear with where the large e-clip should go. Initially I put it in position "A", as I thought it would prevent the brake disc from falling off, but then moved it to position "B" as I though it prevents the rear axle from floating side to side. It fits in both slots, anyone know which is the right one - see photo.

Finally, is the slight binding on the braking system fairly common? I assume that after a few runs it will loosen right up, but I can see there isn't much room between the two pads and disc.
That C-clip goes to the outter most slot. It prevents the axle from sliding from side to side. Actually it rest against the bearings on both sides.
walo is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.