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Old 05-03-2011, 03:30 AM   #2071
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Here's a pic from REDRC
Cheers, must have missed that page on Red.
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:59 AM   #2072
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Hi all, have a look to the mugen team driver setup sheet at world everyone is using the optional front upright upper plate C (PN# H2131) and positioned the hole at front. Anyone could explain how it works and what good it brings?
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:16 AM   #2073
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You guys should try KO Propo. The latest version, Eurus, is bullet proof.
not true at all, i had several run aways with it.....but with top of the line hitec, i am buying 2 rsx servos today, as the connector ends are gold plated, and maybe have something to do with ti, also taking the reciever out of the case<plastic> and wrapping it in foam in the radio box to ensure as much vibration free operation as possible...
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:21 AM   #2074
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Well..... it seems there is more than only blaming the electronics. Mugen did already change the receiver position so that must have a good reason.

But did all of you guys with glitches try to connect the chassis to the ground and with that I mean a wire from the negative pole of the battery to the chassis?
It can take away a lot of interferences made by the chassis, motor and clutch.
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:33 AM   #2075
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Only Robert runs the receiver on the other side. The other Mugen drivers had the standard layout and did just fine. I think Robert is doing it to have the possibility to put weight on the right side of the car, close to the center. At the worlds he ran at least 60 gram in the original place of the receiver. The world circuit was ran clockwise with two long right hand sweepers, so having weight on the right side of the car should help...

We have so many Mugen drivers now at our national events with the receivers mounted in the original position without issues, so it must be something different. As I said, I got rid of glitching by changing to PPM transmission mode (disables the failsafe with low voltage protection as well).

What Steve Rossi posted earlier makes a lot of sense to me: The power leads are quite thin if you use a Futabe servo extension for example. With two strong digital servos there is certainly a high current load on them. I charged my Life pack with 3amps at one time and the connector got extremely hot. I was really shocked when I touched it...

What other otions for the power leads do we have? I can not just make my own leads (have tried already) because the socket pins and Futaba connectors do not accept fat wires...
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:44 AM   #2076
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What is the difference with the new clutch? Have I missed something?

the new pressure plate will ensure the flyweights dont shoot out past the pressure plate, some guys running a big clutch gap with a loose spring are finding the flyweights shoot out past the pressure plate and cause slipping.
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Old 05-03-2011, 07:40 AM   #2077
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Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1 View Post
Here's a pic from REDRC
i already seen in Taiwan.It looks very well.
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:33 AM   #2078
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the new pressure plate will ensure the flyweights dont shoot out past the pressure plate, some guys running a big clutch gap with a loose spring are finding the flyweights shoot out past the pressure plate and cause slipping.
That is not the advantage of the new clutch. Normally the flyweights have to move forward over the pin on the flywheel. Because the flyweight is twisting a tiny bit it goes a bit stiff over the pin slowing down the clutch movement, with the new clutch the flyweight stays on position and rotates freely. That will give a faster response on the clutch.
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Old 05-03-2011, 09:17 AM   #2079
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not true at all, i had several run aways with it.....but with top of the line hitec, i am buying 2 rsx servos today, as the connector ends are gold plated, and maybe have something to do with ti, also taking the reciever out of the case<plastic> and wrapping it in foam in the radio box to ensure as much vibration free operation as possible...
I am thinking of purchasing rsx sevros to use them with my 4PKS.Are you suggesting the hard case ones or not?
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Old 05-03-2011, 11:01 PM   #2080
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hey fellas something i learned at the worlds from Sawamotto of Sanwa ....i'm not sure but havn't had issues since .....worth a try...I did see most of the Pro drivers using a heavy duty or home made power lead or the factory ones that KO and Sanwa give you with the radios in the kit....i heard the power loss of a lesser quality lead was causing the problems...
So is that heavy duty wire from the battery to the plug and then from the plug to the receiver or just from the plug to the receiver. Because I dont know if I can replace the lead from the LiFe battery to the plug. And if I do it from the plug to the receiver only will that still have an effect. I wouldnt have thought so. Thanks
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Old 05-04-2011, 01:56 AM   #2081
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Anybody know when the new front upper arms might be out?
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Old 05-04-2011, 05:32 AM   #2082
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Originally Posted by fulcrum2 View Post
Only Robert runs the receiver on the other side. The other Mugen drivers had the standard layout and did just fine. I think Robert is doing it to have the possibility to put weight on the right side of the car, close to the center. At the worlds he ran at least 60 gram in the original place of the receiver. The world circuit was ran clockwise with two long right hand sweepers, so having weight on the right side of the car should help...

We have so many Mugen drivers now at our national events with the receivers mounted in the original position without issues, so it must be something different. As I said, I got rid of glitching by changing to PPM transmission mode (disables the failsafe with low voltage protection as well).

What Steve Rossi posted earlier makes a lot of sense to me: The power leads are quite thin if you use a Futabe servo extension for example. With two strong digital servos there is certainly a high current load on them. I charged my Life pack with 3amps at one time and the connector got extremely hot. I was really shocked when I touched it...

What other otions for the power leads do we have? I can not just make my own leads (have tried already) because the socket pins and Futaba connectors do not accept fat wires...
ALL-RITE! Think your on to something here! I have only used JR PROPO heavy duty extensions and either the Intellect from teamepiconline or the Reedy receiver pack. Both of which use excellent construction and come with very high quality silicone jacketed wire.
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Old 05-04-2011, 06:46 PM   #2083
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Mugen Drew,

You posted earlier in an answer to someone else that you too had experienced advanced wear on the inner bearings on all four corners. I have been running my MRX5 since they were first released last fall and have had the same experience. I also use the Avid bearings and pitch and replace them at $1 each. However my question is, do you have any idea or willing to venture a guess as to the cause?

Thanks,
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Old 05-04-2011, 06:59 PM   #2084
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Any idea what the black plastic part mounted in front of the battery opening is? A splash guard?
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Old 05-04-2011, 07:18 PM   #2085
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Any idea what the black plastic part mounted in front of the battery opening is? A splash guard?
this is so the battery doesn't come in contact with the belt pully under crash .
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