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Old 04-16-2011, 10:33 PM   #1981
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you can bend the brake linkage whichever way you want...mine is bent outwards and it makes it easier to pull the motor without having to undo the brake linkage at the brake arm...just try to keep it as straight as possible so it doesn't deflect too much when using the brakes...

Hey in that pic of your motor...is that spring attached to your carb slide? a decent rubber band will do the trick...that spring might be a little much for the throttle servo...
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Old 04-16-2011, 11:02 PM   #1982
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digi servos are noisy at times, especially the cheaper ones, what brand/model servo is giving you a problem?
lololol My Servos are far from cheap, I have the Hitec HS-7955TG Ultra Torque Titanium Gear Digital Servo's.



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you can bend the brake linkage whichever way you want...mine is bent outwards and it makes it easier to pull the motor without having to undo the brake linkage at the brake arm...just try to keep it as straight as possible so it doesn't deflect too much when using the brakes...

Hey in that pic of your motor...is that spring attached to your carb slide? a decent rubber band will do the trick...that spring might be a little much for the throttle servo...
The Carb slides open just fine with the spring, I think the motor came with the spring. I purchased the motor used so i could be wrong. As of right now with the throttle link unbent its bending when I am pulling the throttle forward and back... I don't want to bend it cuz then I won't be able to unbend it lol. Would bneding fix my issue?
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Old 04-17-2011, 08:24 AM   #1983
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they are good servo's i use those in myu sons lst2, and another offroad buggy, they are noisey, i wouldnt worry about it, mine make noise, than i press on them, it goes away etc etc etc/... as long as your not binding, or putting excessive strain i wouldnt worry about it. Those are very strong servo's ur using, they have a high threshold, i use in a lst2, and it turns those wheels like my 18 scales turn.LOL
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Old 04-17-2011, 09:13 AM   #1984
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they are good servo's i use those in myu sons lst2, and another offroad buggy, they are noisey, i wouldnt worry about it, mine make noise, than i press on them, it goes away etc etc etc/... as long as your not binding, or putting excessive strain i wouldnt worry about it. Those are very strong servo's ur using, they have a high threshold, i use in a lst2, and it turns those wheels like my 18 scales turn.LOL
The servo's are sitting there without the arms, they are naked and making the noise. Like a little ticking sound, I am sure it's fine. I hope these Servo's aren't too much for the car????
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Old 04-17-2011, 11:26 AM   #1985
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The servo's are sitting there without the arms, they are naked and making the noise. Like a little ticking sound, I am sure it's fine. I hope these Servo's aren't too much for the car????
The tick, or clicking noise is fine. This is the noise the servo makes beacause it is constantly trying to find its 'neutral' position. This is why digital is more precise than analog servos.

Also, pay close attention when hooking up your throttle linkage. If the throttle servo seems to be making more noise (at neutral) than what you think is normal, loosten the set screw on the throttle rod collar. Let it snap itself to a neutal postion. If the noise suddenly diminishes, then you had the servo binding. Re-adjust and you're good to go.

I burned up a ko servo twice because I thought the binding noise I heard was just the 'digital' noise.

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Old 04-17-2011, 12:08 PM   #1986
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Worlds Edition 5?
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Old 04-17-2011, 01:09 PM   #1987
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Worlds Edition 5?
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Old 04-17-2011, 01:57 PM   #1988
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Default Servo Noise

Also make sure when the throttle is completely closed that there is a gap between the throttle linkage and the end collar as shown in pic.
If after that is adjusted you still have an excessive amount of servo noise adjust E0828b untill noise is minimal.
If the spring is to tight the throttle keeps adjusting to find center that is most likely what you are hearing.
Turn your radio on and blip the throttle a couple times to check all is adjusted correctly.
Hope this helps.
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Old 04-17-2011, 02:00 PM   #1989
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REDRC showed pics of a new clutch and new front upper arms, anything else spotted?
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Old 04-17-2011, 02:42 PM   #1990
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REDRC showed pics of a new clutch and new front upper arms, anything else spotted?
Where did you see the new upper arms? I did see the clutch, but not the arms.
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Old 04-17-2011, 04:07 PM   #1991
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Go to redrc and than go to the worlds photo gallery on write up, pages 14 and 17 have some shots of parts coming .
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Old 04-17-2011, 10:28 PM   #1992
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Originally Posted by tdr170 View Post
Also make sure when the throttle is completely closed that there is a gap between the throttle linkage and the end collar as shown in pic.
If after that is adjusted you still have an excessive amount of servo noise adjust E0828b untill noise is minimal.
If the spring is to tight the throttle keeps adjusting to find center that is most likely what you are hearing.
Turn your radio on and blip the throttle a couple times to check all is adjusted correctly.
Hope this helps.
Tomorrow I will bend out the throttle linkage at the center a little bit and re-connect everything and see how it goes. What I do is take off the servo arms, turn on the radio, let the servo center and then connect the arms, After that I hit the throttle to check how everything is connected. This puts the lease possible strain on the servos.

When I hit the throttle the link starts bending in a all different directions, I will try bending it in the middle and see what happens.

i want to work out as many quirks as possible before starting my engine for the first time.
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Old 04-18-2011, 03:24 AM   #1993
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Hi guys

A friend of mine has just finished building his 5 and was setting it up yesterday, however he couldn't seem to get the required amount of rear droop (less than 11) due to the rear shocks limiting downward movement of the suspension. The rear shock shafts seem to be the same length as the front, is this right? Also, is the rear roll bar fixed to the upper or lower fixing on the wishbone? The manual shows lower but looks as if it could get knocked off easily?

Thanks
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Old 04-18-2011, 05:14 AM   #1994
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Hi guys

A friend of mine has just finished building his 5 and was setting it up yesterday, however he couldn't seem to get the required amount of rear droop (less than 11) due to the rear shocks limiting downward movement of the suspension. The rear shock shafts seem to be the same length as the front, is this right? Also, is the rear roll bar fixed to the upper or lower fixing on the wishbone? The manual shows lower but looks as if it could get knocked off easily?

Thanks
the rear shocks r the sme as the front u should b able to get 9 drop with the ball end turned out, i used the steering rob ends on the rear shock i had to sand off 1mm but works better then the ones for the rear give u more meat on the thread, the rear roll bar is fixed to the bottom hole the top hole is there cause the arms can b used on lft or right side..
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Old 04-18-2011, 05:54 PM   #1995
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Go to redrc and than go to the worlds photo gallery on write up, pages 14 and 17 have some shots of parts coming .
Thanks.
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