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Old 04-14-2011, 04:12 PM   #1951
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Question.... Do I stick the wire from the on-board battery pack through that little circle along with the wires from the servo? And to charge the battery I have to pull out the receiver every time? Do I get an extended wire??

This is the battery pack I picked up: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...P?I=LXNMD6&P=8
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Old 04-14-2011, 07:53 PM   #1952
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Get an extender cable so you can connect the battery outside the receiver tray. You can also run a switch
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:05 PM   #1953
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Get an extender cable so you can connect the battery outside the receiver tray. You can also run a switch
What do you guys normally do, connect an extender cable?

Another question... I just put the motor together and there is some play on it, meaning it goes forward and back, not a lot about a mm or so, is that normal or does it have to be completely tight?
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Old 04-14-2011, 09:45 PM   #1954
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Originally Posted by Onetrade View Post
What do you guys normally do, connect an extender cable?

Another question... I just put the motor together and there is some play on it, meaning it goes forward and back, not a lot about a mm or so, is that normal or does it have to be completely tight?
did you already put the flywheel on? make sure you pull the crank one direction and push the collet tight against the bearing before you mount the flywheel
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Old 04-15-2011, 04:21 PM   #1955
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did you already put the flywheel on? make sure you pull the crank one direction and push the collet tight against the bearing before you mount the flywheel
I attached and tightened everything as much as I could but there was still some wiggling around, is that normal or should it be very tight fitting together?

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Also another question, here is my back-end, does it look to be built correctly? Are the wheels too close to the rear shock tower assembly?

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Old 04-15-2011, 05:52 PM   #1956
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Your rear end build looks good to me" Those two screws that are holding your lower arm pins in with the bushings, make sure you got a touch of lock tight on them. Go race and have FuN "'
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:45 PM   #1957
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I attached and tightened everything as much as I could but there was still some wiggling around, is that normal or should it be very tight fitting together?

---------------------------------

Also another question, here is my back-end, does it look to be built correctly? Are the wheels too close to the rear shock tower assembly?

those look like full out the box tires and they will hit the uprights, if u built it by the book even cut they will hit the upright and thats with a standard 60mm wide rim forget the grp at 63mm wide and a 1.5mm offset car wont move!! has anyone noticed the book tells u 2.6mm space in the backside of rear hub and 2.4mm front side of the rear hub to give u a 2 rear toe in, problem is book tells u to use the inside holes for the rear upper arms using a 3degree camber, now the setup sheet says to use the outer holes for the rear upper arms!! good luck with the outer holes trying to get it to a 3 degree camber it dont screw in far enuff... its as bad as telling u to mout the body 18mm from the middle of the front bumper, they will get it stright one day. look at robert pietsch car from the pics of the worlds thats no 18mm mounted!!! anyhow i use 3.5mm spacing at the back of the rear hub, also it looks like u have your shocks mounted 3rd hole up from the bottom should b 2nd hole up thats the guidline...
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:14 PM   #1958
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those look like full out the box tires and they will hit the uprights, if u built it by the book even cut they will hit the upright and thats with a standard 60mm wide rim forget the grp at 63mm wide and a 1.5mm offset car wont move!! has anyone noticed the book tells u 2.6mm space in the backside of rear hub and 2.4mm front side of the rear hub to give u a 2 rear toe in, problem is book tells u to use the inside holes for the rear upper arms using a 3degree camber, now the setup sheet says to use the outer holes for the rear upper arms!! good luck with the outer holes trying to get it to a 3 degree camber it dont screw in far enuff... its as bad as telling u to mout the body 18mm from the middle of the front bumper, they will get it stright one day. look at robert pietsch car from the pics of the worlds thats no 18mm mounted!!! anyhow i use 3.5mm spacing at the back of the rear hub, also it looks like u have your shocks mounted 3rd hole up from the bottom should b 2nd hole up thats the guidline...

so where do we measure the body if not off the recessed center of the bumper?
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:39 PM   #1959
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Originally Posted by ralphierace13 View Post
those look like full out the box tires and they will hit the uprights, if u built it by the book even cut they will hit the upright and thats with a standard 60mm wide rim forget the grp at 63mm wide and a 1.5mm offset car wont move!! has anyone noticed the book tells u 2.6mm space in the backside of rear hub and 2.4mm front side of the rear hub to give u a 2 rear toe in, problem is book tells u to use the inside holes for the rear upper arms using a 3degree camber, now the setup sheet says to use the outer holes for the rear upper arms!! good luck with the outer holes trying to get it to a 3 degree camber it dont screw in far enuff... its as bad as telling u to mout the body 18mm from the middle of the front bumper, they will get it stright one day. look at robert pietsch car from the pics of the worlds thats no 18mm mounted!!! anyhow i use 3.5mm spacing at the back of the rear hub, also it looks like u have your shocks mounted 3rd hole up from the bottom should b 2nd hole up thats the guidline...
Ralph, I actually came into Brooklyn hobbies and told the guy I need tires for my mrx-5 for your track, he said it's cold out, here are shore 32, that's all I know. I mounted them and they are almost touching those bars. I will re mount to the second from the bottom, was not aware...
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:48 PM   #1960
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so where do we measure the body if not off the recessed center of the bumper?
i do it from the widest part of the bumper, but from the middle im about 27mm from the middle with the pins foward, turned back 3mm less, u cant mount a p909 18 mm from the middle u have to chop up have the body to fit..
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:51 PM   #1961
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Ralph, I actually came into Brooklyn hobbies and told the guy I need tires for my mrx-5 for your track, he said it's cold out, here are shore 32, that's all I know. I mounted them and they are almost touching those bars. I will re mount to the second from the bottom, was not aware...
32 shore is good when u cut them down lets say for pratice to 75 in the rear u push down on the chasis if the wheels hit the up rights make it wider.. if u set it to 2.6 like i said then keep going out till they dont touch..
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:57 PM   #1962
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i do it from the widest part of the bumper, but from the middle im about 27mm from the middle with the pins foward, turned back 3mm less, u cant mount a p909 18 mm from the middle u have to chop up have the body to fit..
yeah that's what I thought...I managed to get one on at 18mm forward of the inner part of the bumper and the car turned great...when I put one of my pre-cut 4X lids on the 5 it sat 27mm forward like you are saying...I never drove it with the (cut for the) 4 lid on it but I will try that next...I'm just leery that 9mm more forward will be TOO MUCH steering (for me anyways..lol)

I was told by a friend that was told by their neighbors sisters boyfriends cousin that was told by Swauger that you just drop the 4 lid right on the 5 and go...
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Old 04-16-2011, 12:23 AM   #1963
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Place the H-arms one hole further on the body mount and you will have more room.
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Old 04-16-2011, 04:10 AM   #1964
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Place the H-arms one hole further on the body mount and you will have more room.
at book settings and a grp rim placing it one hole it wont help trust me i have tryed everything u can try, it rubs right above the body mount arm screws so it wont help, u can move the axle washer the one in the rear to the front to combat the offset and only go 3.0mm on the backside of the rear hub..
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Old 04-16-2011, 04:23 AM   #1965
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yeah that's what I thought...I managed to get one on at 18mm forward of the inner part of the bumper and the car turned great...when I put one of my pre-cut 4X lids on the 5 it sat 27mm forward like you are saying...I never drove it with the (cut for the) 4 lid on it but I will try that next...I'm just leery that 9mm more forward will be TOO MUCH steering (for me anyways..lol)

I was told by a friend that was told by their neighbors sisters boyfriends cousin that was told by Swauger that you just drop the 4 lid right on the 5 and go...
yer we were told by the mugen powers to be camp that mike ran it 18 off the middle when we went to the pre worlds and i got a glimpse of his body that was no 18mm!! its also a ? of track and driving style on a tight loose track with alot of small hairpin type turns i like the extra steering so it digs in when i enter the turn on power with more speed and use less brake and dont have to worry bout rear kicking out under braking, then i can roll around off power mid and conner exit, then i am lined up for the next close turn, i find when the body is back and someone is up your ass u cant enter the turn with so much speed and if u do u push then your on the gas out of your line mid and conner exit and without the car digging in in the front u try to over turn it to get back in line while on the gas and the rear breaks, anyhow this is my opinion and my type of driving style, what i did was mounted 2 body both ways went to track did 10 laps came in didnt shut car off switched body did another 10 found the 25mm better again my opinion...
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