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Old 03-23-2011, 09:33 PM   #1846
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Strang I use a 5.5 cone and have had no problems.
How big is the gap between the motor and the back of the flywheel.
best i can measure, using a stack of clutch shims, 1.24mm
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:54 PM   #1847
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best i can measure, using a stack of clutch shims, 1.24mm
Yeah, that's too much.
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:56 PM   #1848
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That is the issue then I just measured two different Novarossi engines one was .5mm the other was .65mm both are shimed with out any probs.
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:59 PM   #1849
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Yeah, that's too much.
Well, Thougt's on making it less?

How tight are you getting the fly wheel nut? I dont think making it tighter would really do anything for me, its pretty tight.

The cone is all the way back to the bearing.

Going to see what my other setup is the cone I sanded
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:00 PM   #1850
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That is the issue then I just measured two different Novarossi engines one was .5mm the other was .65mm both are shimed with out any probs.
Ok sweet Now how do I get that.
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:04 PM   #1851
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The one I sanded down that clutch setup is .70 between the flywheel and motor case
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:16 PM   #1852
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Originally Posted by Vector03cobra View Post
Ok sweet Now how do I get that.
Find a cone that works I have like 6 of them if you only have the one find a friend with some.
What is interesting is that the cone that comes with a Flash is the same as the Kangaroo I measured at 5.5mm not the 7mm that you have.
With the 5.5mm cone I get a .5mm gap at the flywheel.
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:18 PM   #1853
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The one I sanded down that clutch setup is .70 between the flywheel and motor case
If you can't shim that you have another issue somewhere.
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:23 PM   #1854
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Find a cone that works I have like 6 of them if you only have the one find a friend with some.
What is interesting is that the cone that comes with a Flash is the same as the Kangaroo I measured at 5.5mm not the 7mm that you have.
With the 5.5mm cone I get a .5mm gap at the flywheel.
2 come with the flash

7 and 5.5 the 7 comes on the shaft, the 5.5 is in the little spot with the restricters.

So your telling me everyone chases around for the magic cone to setup there clutch? if so thats kinda bogas.

I will tear it down and recheck it all again.

I do thank you for all your time and info and helping me
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:25 PM   #1855
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If you can't shim that you have another issue somewhere.
this one works the .70 that cone was sanded down, a pain in the ass i dont want to revist.

I would rather it just work with normal parts, rather then spend a hour with a piece of sand paper.
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:33 PM   #1856
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I noticed also. the 2 cones 7 and 5.5 most if not all of the 7mm is inside the flywheel very very little will stick out the back.

So there is very little to gain by going with the 5.5 I see no real change if i swap them.
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Old 03-24-2011, 02:55 AM   #1857
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Originally Posted by Vector03cobra View Post
Smaller 5.5mm cone
goes right up to the motor bearing, I would not want to make it any longer this would make my problem worse.

reducing the cone from 5.5 to 5 works but I do not want to do that because my thought is no one else has to do that

smaller cone, no change

and there is no cone that come in a mugen kit, clutch assembly is on page 37, and ....nothing from them.

I did see you can order one and i think i have one, so far I have tried 2 cones and no dice same result
take a pic your doing something really wrong any cone that comes with any of those motors works i use those motors.. take pic let us see..
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:07 AM   #1858
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Wow, ok. Did I say not to try it? No I did't and I am not interested in starting any argument on the subject. With all this post about the MRX5 being so fragile others viewing this threats would think the car is made out of paper. It is just my opinion which I have the right to express and I am not one bit concern on what other would like to do to their cars as its you given right.

We all crash our cars from time to time and its part of racing. The amount of people that tell me they are not going to upgrade to the MRX5 or are looking at other brands because its too fragile from what they have read on forums is staggering. I have the right to say the car out of the box is quite strong and to also remember that its a pure race car.

Good luck in making the car crash proof.
yes west your basicaly telling us not to try it your saying stop crashing and stop trying to build a tank, so that means dont try it, im not fighting either. but this is what this forum is about to help people with the 5, dont worry bout what people read and think about the car, they can see the problems with the car when its at the track running they just dont have to read it on here, i been running mugen for 6 years and i love it if i didnt i would'nt try to fix the problem i would throw it out and buy a different car. and unless u got an intrest in the company dont worry who buys it or not my opinion let less people buy it, we know how good it is and less people with the car means more wins for us 5 guys!!!
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Old 03-24-2011, 05:04 AM   #1859
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Jeff just to ask ya a stupid question, are you sure the crank is seated all the way in the bearings? There are two types of the short or 5mm ish collet. The ones that have a black oxide finish (like a dry wall screw) very from 5 to 5.7 mm and the need there back side sanded, the other type has a shinny finish almost like a black version of the hudy steel wash and these have been between 5.0-5.2mm and do not require sanding. As far as the nut goes if you really wanna get over the top the S.A.E. torque spec is 109 INCH/ pounds per foot or 9.08 FOOT/ pounds for the flywheel nut.
YES I would love to see some pics! Even with a 5.5 collet and a new disc I'm ont getting any bind, bell to disc clearance is a little tighter than I'd like but its run-able. This clutch is a totally stock 3 flyweight mugen as it came in the box set-up rite? NO aftermarket hop up parts?
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Old 03-24-2011, 09:51 AM   #1860
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Jeff just to ask ya a stupid question, are you sure the crank is seated all the way in the bearings? There are two types of the short or 5mm ish collet. The ones that have a black oxide finish (like a dry wall screw) very from 5 to 5.7 mm and the need there back side sanded, the other type has a shinny finish almost like a black version of the hudy steel wash and these have been between 5.0-5.2mm and do not require sanding. As far as the nut goes if you really wanna get over the top the S.A.E. torque spec is 109 INCH/ pounds per foot or 9.08 FOOT/ pounds for the flywheel nut.
YES I would love to see some pics! Even with a 5.5 collet and a new disc I'm ont getting any bind, bell to disc clearance is a little tighter than I'd like but its run-able. This clutch is a totally stock 3 flyweight mugen as it came in the box set-up rite? NO aftermarket hop up parts?
I will get some pics tonight.

I first try to assembly it with stock parts first.

Does not matter, stock parts aftermarket, same result.

I think my Cone is the DRY steal, I will get a picture of it also.

Thanks
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