R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-23-2011, 08:16 PM   #1831
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 559
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default Clutch setup and new motor.

Ok this always seems to be a problem for me so i must have missed the trick somewhere.

just opened a brand new flash
just opened a brand new clutch

the flash comes with a 7mm cone, somewhere I had a 5 mm long cone but that didnt make any difference

anyways. I put it to gether.

I tried shimming it I have tried shimming it like how the book says

I have 2 full packs of mugen shims does to really matter where i put them the result is the same a lock clutch bell on the disk and i am not really even tighting it down.

in the past the ONLY way i have been able to make this work is to sand by hand the back side of the taper cone that the fly wheel goes on.

I am tired of sanding so it stops with this assembly.

what am I doing wrong, do I have the wrong cone, because i have tried more then one and cant seem to get it, am i shimming it wrong, I have tried shimming it inside the bell near the spring, I have tried shimming it near the in the location the direction call out by the trust bearing that makes it worse.

my clutch i ran at the winter nats, i sanded the cone by hand i have shims located inside the bell near the spring it works but i would like to improve and no longer have to sand

please help

thanks
__________________
Desoto Racing, Serpent America, Novarossi, KoPropo, Xceed.
2011, 2013, 2 Time Midwest Series 1/8th Open, Champion
2011 Byrons onroad 1/8th Open 3rd
2011 Roar Nats 1/8th Open, 5th
2012 GLC 1/8th Open Q7 Finish 5th, 2013 GLC 1/8th Open Q4 Finish 7th
Vector03cobra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 08:46 PM   #1832
Tech Regular
 
West03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Victoria, Geelong
Posts: 388
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ralphierace13 View Post
west y do u have such a problem with trying something that might work alittle better no one said u have to change yours, sorry we dont all drive as good as u, mugen made a great great car but it has a weak spot thats above and beyond the normal limits to some of us, its not high speed crashing were concerned about, and its not the arms, its the ball end that is very fragile even at low speed impacts.. and at low speed impact u not damaging the chasis and bulkhead so have no fear. plus the car is way under weight so dont worry bout a 4mm tie rod weighing the car down or slowing it down. skip over the post about the upgrades and it wont bother u. also y are people that dont even have a mugen and dont know what were talking bout posting on here i dont get it, and i have said this before ill take the cost of changing a bulkhead or chasis that might bend but not cause me not to finish a race as long as i can finish and not cause of a stupid lilttle thing that could of been corrected.... dont let it get to u west some of us want to try it, u be ok....
Wow, ok. Did I say not to try it? No I did't and I am not interested in starting any argument on the subject. With all this post about the MRX5 being so fragile others viewing this threats would think the car is made out of paper. It is just my opinion which I have the right to express and I am not one bit concern on what other would like to do to their cars as its you given right.

We all crash our cars from time to time and its part of racing. The amount of people that tell me they are not going to upgrade to the MRX5 or are looking at other brands because its too fragile from what they have read on forums is staggering. I have the right to say the car out of the box is quite strong and to also remember that its a pure race car.

Good luck in making the car crash proof.
__________________
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
EGA . MUGEN SEIKI (MRX5 WC) . MMI . SANWA . MURNAN MODIFIED
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
MRCCR - MELBOURNE RADIO CONTROL CIRCUIT RACING
www.mrccr.com.au
West03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 08:51 PM   #1833
occ
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 570
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vector03cobra View Post
Ok this always seems to be a problem for me so i must have missed the trick somewhere.

just opened a brand new flash
just opened a brand new clutch

the flash comes with a 7mm cone, somewhere I had a 5 mm long cone but that didnt make any difference

anyways. I put it to gether.

I tried shimming it I have tried shimming it like how the book says

I have 2 full packs of mugen shims does to really matter where i put them the result is the same a lock clutch bell on the disk and i am not really even tighting it down.

in the past the ONLY way i have been able to make this work is to sand by hand the back side of the taper cone that the fly wheel goes on.

I am tired of sanding so it stops with this assembly.

what am I doing wrong, do I have the wrong cone, because i have tried more then one and cant seem to get it, am i shimming it wrong, I have tried shimming it inside the bell near the spring, I have tried shimming it near the in the location the direction call out by the trust bearing that makes it worse.

my clutch i ran at the winter nats, i sanded the cone by hand i have shims located inside the bell near the spring it works but i would like to improve and no longer have to sand

please help

thanks
I never use the cone that comes with the engine. Its too long for the flywheel.

I use the Mugen one, part number C0702B - Taper Cone.
occ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 08:53 PM   #1834
Tech Fanatic
 
gotmotor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 753
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ltrdude View Post
I am deleting the post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pooh2 View Post
I don't run Mugen anymore but... you guys are killing a really good car with all these mods. Mugen has always made great cars and I don't think the 5 is any different.

Don't hit, won't break. That goes for any car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmotor View Post
Going to try this out maybe this wknd I'll let you guys know how it holds up.
CSO if your looking at this why dont you make something like this for the five
Ran this at the RCX race in LA and had great results, I feel that I fixed the problem with the way I was hitting the boards I think everyone should post pics if you feel that you can fix the problem.....Keep hope alive
__________________
RcTarget~Airtronics~VP Fuel~Maxpower~SRC

Last edited by gotmotor; 03-23-2011 at 08:57 PM. Reason: didnt post
gotmotor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 09:05 PM   #1835
Tech Fanatic
 
gotmotor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 753
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmotor View Post
This was made by MSO...#ike WHOOOOOOOOO
This is what I wanted to post
__________________
RcTarget~Airtronics~VP Fuel~Maxpower~SRC

Last edited by gotmotor; 03-23-2011 at 09:05 PM. Reason: wrong post
gotmotor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 09:12 PM   #1836
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 559
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by occ View Post
I never use the cone that comes with the engine. Its too long for the flywheel.

I use the Mugen one, part number C0702B - Taper Cone.
trying it again, found a cone thats 5.5mm maybe its the mugan one.
__________________
Desoto Racing, Serpent America, Novarossi, KoPropo, Xceed.
2011, 2013, 2 Time Midwest Series 1/8th Open, Champion
2011 Byrons onroad 1/8th Open 3rd
2011 Roar Nats 1/8th Open, 5th
2012 GLC 1/8th Open Q7 Finish 5th, 2013 GLC 1/8th Open Q4 Finish 7th
Vector03cobra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 09:29 PM   #1837
Tech Fanatic
 
gotmotor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 753
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmotor View Post
This was made by MSO...#ike WHOOOOOOOOO
Last try
__________________
RcTarget~Airtronics~VP Fuel~Maxpower~SRC
gotmotor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 09:29 PM   #1838
Tech Regular
 
tdr170's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Fl
Posts: 430
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vector03cobra View Post
Ok this always seems to be a problem for me so i must have missed the trick somewhere.

just opened a brand new flash
just opened a brand new clutch

the flash comes with a 7mm cone, somewhere I had a 5 mm long cone but that didnt make any difference

anyways. I put it to gether.

I tried shimming it I have tried shimming it like how the book says

I have 2 full packs of mugen shims does to really matter where i put them the result is the same a lock clutch bell on the disk and i am not really even tighting it down.

in the past the ONLY way i have been able to make this work is to sand by hand the back side of the taper cone that the fly wheel goes on.

I am tired of sanding so it stops with this assembly.

what am I doing wrong, do I have the wrong cone, because i have tried more then one and cant seem to get it, am i shimming it wrong, I have tried shimming it inside the bell near the spring, I have tried shimming it near the in the location the direction call out by the trust bearing that makes it worse.

my clutch i ran at the winter nats, i sanded the cone by hand i have shims located inside the bell near the spring it works but i would like to improve and no longer have to sand

please help

thanks
Actually you should end up with shims in 2 places.
The first place you should shim is to the outside of the thrust bearing to set shoe clearance then you will add shims between the clutch spring nut and the inside bearing of the clutch bell to set end play.
tdr170 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 09:31 PM   #1839
Tech Fanatic
 
gotmotor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 753
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmotor View Post
Last try
Its on page 90 damn it!!!
__________________
RcTarget~Airtronics~VP Fuel~Maxpower~SRC
gotmotor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 09:48 PM   #1840
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 559
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdr170 View Post
Actually you should end up with shims in 2 places.
The first place you should shim is to the outside of the thrust bearing to set shoe clearance then you will add shims between the clutch spring nut and the inside bearing of the clutch bell to set end play.
well....

The only way I have ever got that to work is to sand the cone down from the back side,

it does not matter where i put the shims or dont put them. the bell rest on the shoe.

No shims, with my finger just holding it together there is ZERO play in the bell.

Has to be something i am doing as this has always been the result without reducing the lenght of the cone

so frustrating
__________________
Desoto Racing, Serpent America, Novarossi, KoPropo, Xceed.
2011, 2013, 2 Time Midwest Series 1/8th Open, Champion
2011 Byrons onroad 1/8th Open 3rd
2011 Roar Nats 1/8th Open, 5th
2012 GLC 1/8th Open Q7 Finish 5th, 2013 GLC 1/8th Open Q4 Finish 7th
Vector03cobra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 09:54 PM   #1841
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 559
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdr170 View Post
Actually you should end up with shims in 2 places.
The first place you should shim is to the outside of the thrust bearing to set shoe clearance then you will add shims between the clutch spring nut and the inside bearing of the clutch bell to set end play.
The part that the thrust bearing rides on (H0756) never has a chance to seat or but up to the tip of the crank.

If it did then i could shim however need be. even with no shims, even tighting it down by hand with my finger tips its bound, and part H0756 has never came in contact with the tip of the crank.
__________________
Desoto Racing, Serpent America, Novarossi, KoPropo, Xceed.
2011, 2013, 2 Time Midwest Series 1/8th Open, Champion
2011 Byrons onroad 1/8th Open 3rd
2011 Roar Nats 1/8th Open, 5th
2012 GLC 1/8th Open Q7 Finish 5th, 2013 GLC 1/8th Open Q4 Finish 7th
Vector03cobra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 10:08 PM   #1842
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,656
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

If you can't get any play with no shims, shims aren't the problem. You will need a cone that will place the flywheel closer to the motor. Try that shorter one you found.

Generally I find the steel ones work better, not sure if they are Nova or Mugen or what but I have a bunch of them and they work great. The big brass ones sometimes work, sometimes don't.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 10:16 PM   #1843
Tech Regular
 
tdr170's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Fl
Posts: 430
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vector03cobra View Post
The part that the thrust bearing rides on (H0756) never has a chance to seat or but up to the tip of the crank.

If it did then i could shim however need be. even with no shims, even tighting it down by hand with my finger tips its bound, and part H0756 has never came in contact with the tip of the crank.
Are you putting the cone against the outside motor bearing or are you adding a shim between the cone and the outside bearing.
tdr170 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 10:24 PM   #1844
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 559
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdr170 View Post
Are you putting the cone against the outside motor bearing or are you adding a shim between the cone and the outside bearing.
Smaller 5.5mm cone
goes right up to the motor bearing, I would not want to make it any longer this would make my problem worse.

reducing the cone from 5.5 to 5 works but I do not want to do that because my thought is no one else has to do that

smaller cone, no change

and there is no cone that come in a mugen kit, clutch assembly is on page 37, and ....nothing from them.

I did see you can order one and i think i have one, so far I have tried 2 cones and no dice same result
__________________
Desoto Racing, Serpent America, Novarossi, KoPropo, Xceed.
2011, 2013, 2 Time Midwest Series 1/8th Open, Champion
2011 Byrons onroad 1/8th Open 3rd
2011 Roar Nats 1/8th Open, 5th
2012 GLC 1/8th Open Q7 Finish 5th, 2013 GLC 1/8th Open Q4 Finish 7th
Vector03cobra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2011, 10:28 PM   #1845
Tech Regular
 
tdr170's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Fl
Posts: 430
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vector03cobra View Post
Smaller 5.5mm cone
goes right up to the motor bearing, I would not want to make it any longer this would make my problem worse.

reducing the cone from 5.5 to 5 works but I do not want to do that because my thought is no one else has to do that
Strang I use a 5.5 cone and have had no problems.
How big is the gap between the motor and the back of the flywheel.
tdr170 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Adelaide Nitro On Road Littlehampton Kodak Hodak Australian Racing 2503 09-19-2014 08:08 PM
MTX 5 seb1109 Nitro On-Road 3141 09-10-2014 10:24 AM
Mugen MRX5? straightaway Nitro On-Road 140 08-23-2007 09:49 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:13 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0