Originally Posted by jorge858
Lab c02. The rear diff bearing on the plastic seem to bind a little ??
Could you measure the diameter like this:
It should be 18.00mm if it's any bigger let me know.
Originally Posted by mrgsr
A club member today had an issue with the rear dog bones on the c02 not being long enough and would cause a bind.
Is their a difference between the front and rear out drives/unis?
The issue was fixed by putting an o ring behind the dog bone on the diff side.
It's possible for the driveshaft to be a little short when you're running the car at maximum width and a small amount of offset.
When I run the car at max width and min offset I put an O-ring inside the diff outdrive to prevent the driveshaft from binding/falling out.
Originally Posted by younghovaa
Does anyone have a link to a setup for winter nats ? For the c02 I need the pinion gearing etc? Thanks
I think it's best to contact DJ Apolaro for such a setup. He's also on rctech and replies to his pm's pretty quickly.
Originally Posted by speed6
Hey people, so what i have noticed is that the Cap Belts are very strong compared to other brands a +++
The only issue i have is that the rear (small) sidebelt gear is filling up in between teeth with dirt heavily. Thought of upgrading to an aluminium version anyone knows a compatible hop up from another car that fits or if maybe does it for the CAP?
Also i found that the turn-buckle plastic which basically connects the rear swaybar, steering pushrods and steering servo to ackerman get a lot of play to easily so i tried the WHITE version which they did a better work for a bit of more time but still all of a sudden to much play as much as the black version
any ideas, my biggest worry is the rear sway bar since the play is not balanced so the sway bar won't work the same LEFT and RIGHT.
Which belts are you running, the long life ones or the low friction ones?. The low friction ones will keep the pulleys much cleaner. I don't even have to clean the pulleys when I use the kevlar ones and the low friction belts.
I wouldn't advice using an aluminum pulley since I'm not sure if they actually will stay cleaner. The problem with aluminum pulleys besides being heavier they sharpen during use which causes you to strip or snap belts very quickly.
I would rather clean the kevlar pulleys regularly then switch to aluminum pulleys.
After how much running do you replace the ball cups?. Mine last around a half season of racing which I think is really decent since I use more then 100 sets of tires a season.
I do clean them before every big race, so disassemble the ball and clean both the ball and the ball cup.