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Old 02-12-2011, 08:32 AM
  #886  
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport
I've made my shocks a bit shorter then what is advised in the manual.
Mine are 66.7mm in the front and 67.2mm in the rear.
However on the front shocks I use an Xray lower ballend since I ruined the original one. But I actually like the Xray ones better, as you can see these cover the entire thread of the shock shaft, were the rears are still exposed.


It's normal for the spring to be loose, the "stiffness ring" doesn't change the spring's stiffness but is used to set the ride height.
It will be normal when the car is put onto it's wheels.
Thanks DS you are a star!! i will shorten my dampers too because i really don't like how that nut inside punches the rubber gasket at the top. that should't happen.
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Old 02-12-2011, 08:55 AM
  #887  
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Originally Posted by omegaf
i can't keep at it. i need a replacement part at this point. one of the drive shafts for the rear diff does not have a hole big enough for the pin to fit. if i can't fit the pin then obviously the shaft will come loose. it's a manufacturing fault.
i'm on hold until they send me a new part.
Dont wurry, every kit has it things, thats with all brands, you cann also make the hole a bit bigger by yourself. It`s part off the hobby..
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Old 02-12-2011, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by omegaf
Thanks DS you are a star!! i will shorten my dampers too because i really don't like how that nut inside punches the rubber gasket at the top. that should't happen.
It would be worse if the piston touches the bottom when driving.
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Old 02-12-2011, 09:26 AM
  #889  
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Originally Posted by omegaf
i can't keep at it. i need a replacement part at this point. one of the drive shafts for the rear diff does not have a hole big enough for the pin to fit. if i can't fit the pin then obviously the shaft will come loose. it's a manufacturing fault.
i'm on hold until they send me a new part.
I've send you a PM regarding the issue.
Capricorn will send you a replacement asap.

In the meantime you could just continue with building the rest of the car.
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Old 02-12-2011, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by rbakker
Dont wurry, every kit has it things, thats with all brands, you cann also make the hole a bit bigger by yourself. It`s part off the hobby..
i don't have the tools to do that or the space unfortunately. I will need a replacement part
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Old 02-12-2011, 01:59 PM
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credit where credit is due i suppose. capricorn replied to my email about the drive shaft just now (saturday night) and they will send me a new shaft first thing monday.
Everything else so far is progressing smoothly. I hit a little snag with the belt tensioner assembly but it was an easy fix. the ball bearings would fit too tightly in the shaft and they wouldn't slide to the right positions. Just needed a bit convincing with a hammer and now is smooth as butter
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Old 02-13-2011, 04:31 AM
  #892  
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Stop mini-seeger








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Old 02-13-2011, 07:03 PM
  #893  
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wy didnt i think of that? love the solution to thoughs tiney little clips. Man I had one hell of a time getting them in twice I had to search the floor cause thay sprung out of my control. My dad calls clips that small jesus clips cause if you drop them it takes a act of god to find them id like to thank god for helping me twice during sway bar installation..LOL
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:10 AM
  #894  
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Hello, Been out of the loop for a while and getting ready to start the 2011 racing season. Have had the Capricorn Lab since it came out mid 2010 and just wanted to get caught up on some things:

First springs I really never did find out what the kit black springs lbs rating is? Anyone know? How do they compare to the new capricorn Red springs? Anyone know the lbs on those? I've seen alot of people run the xray springs on this car for that reason.

Diff oil what are you guys typically running. I ran 200k front and 80k rear was thinking about going lighter. Something like 150k front and 60k rear..

Clutch I have been running the stock red clutch shoe and black stock weights along with the orion spring. Went out over the weekend and couldn't get the the clutch to spool up the way I would like. Any suggestions/recomendations on clutch weights or setup?

Thanks
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by bradley70
Hello, Been out of the loop for a while and getting ready to start the 2011 racing season. Have had the Capricorn Lab since it came out mid 2010 and just wanted to get caught up on some things:

First springs I really never did find out what the kit black springs lbs rating is? Anyone know? How do they compare to the new capricorn Red springs? Anyone know the lbs on those? I've seen alot of people run the xray springs on this car for that reason.

Diff oil what are you guys typically running. I ran 200k front and 80k rear was thinking about going lighter. Something like 150k front and 60k rear..

Clutch I have been running the stock red clutch shoe and black stock weights along with the orion spring. Went out over the weekend and couldn't get the the clutch to spool up the way I would like. Any suggestions/recomendations on clutch weights or setup?

Thanks
The red springs are a grade softer compared to the black ones.

150K front and 60K rear is the stock setup, I've only ran this combination thus far but I really like it.

I really like the clutch with the stock parts and with a clutchgap of 0.45mm and a spring pretension of 0.35mm
If you want an even more aggressive clutch you could try the flyweights with weight in them.
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:56 AM
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DS thanks for the info. Any idea what the blacks are lbs wise? Or what the new Reds are?

Also what would the clutch weights help with? Never really dealt or messed around with those before.
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:58 PM
  #897  
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Hi

the new Rear wire bar bush CAP-16010 is in steel material now
in black color
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:57 AM
  #898  
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Anyone know?
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Old 02-17-2011, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by TMF
Stop mini-seeger








Nice mod you made there, very simple but works perfectly.
With the new magnesium bulkheads the small seeger clip is eliminated as well.

Originally Posted by bradley70
DS thanks for the info. Any idea what the blacks are lbs wise? Or what the new Reds are?

Also what would the clutch weights help with? Never really dealt or messed around with those before.
I will calculate the lbs ratings later this day.

The weights make the flyweights heavier. So with the same pretension the clutch will engage sooner. Since we don't want that we give the spring a bit more pretension until we have the same engagement point as with the standard flyweights.
Now when the clutch engages it will engage harder and faster with less slip. When the traction (and the driving skills) are there to cope with this harder engagement you will have more acceleration.
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Old 02-24-2011, 04:38 PM
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Pretty much completed my car for the 2011 season, still need to do some clean wiring but haven't received the shrink wrap I need.

The car turned out pretty light for this year.
This is with all Ti screws, one low profile servo, Magnesium bulkheads and lightweight 2-speed axle. The rest is as standard. I could make it even lighter by using a low profile servo on steering as well and removing the exhaust gas cooler. Plus the Capricorn exhaust is one of the heavier ones.




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