As promised the build report on the Lab C01
Step 1, Shockabsorbers.
The quality of the shocks is amazing, standard they come with TiNi coated shafts and a mono O-ring design. The pistons and shaft guide are machined nylon which makes for the smoothest shock I ever build.
All shocks were perfectly matched in bound and rebound on the first try.
Bleeding the shocks with a vacuum pump, this makes for a perfect air-free shock.
Meanwhile I engraved the shockcaps, this makes it easy to have the same shock on the same corner of the car every time.
I used the following method while building the shocks:
1. Put a 4mm spacer between the damperhousing and the balljoint, this sets the amount of rebound. A small spacer will mean less rebound, a big spacer more rebound.
2. While pushing the shockshaft into the housing( with the spacer in place) place the membrane on top of the shockhousing. All excess oil will come out of the shock.
3. Screw the cap on top of the housing.
4. Check if both front and both rear dampers are equal, this is very important in terms of car balance.
I've build the dampers with 550cst in the front and 450cst in the rear, used 3 holed pistons all around.
Step 2 and 3, differentials
I don't have any pictures from actually builing the diffs, only the end product.
Messed up with the oil and didn't want it to be all over my camera.
As standard the diffs are supplied with composite gears, aluminum axles and lightweight outdrives.
Step 4, the gearbox.
The gearbox is made up out of lightweight parts as well, the one-way and the 2 speed housing are both heavily machined as to safe as much weight as possible.
The gearbox is the smallest one currently available on a competition car.
All individual parts.
And everything assembled.
Step 5, servosaver.
Entirely made out of aluminum and the possibility to adjust ackermann by changing carbon inserts.
Step 6 Radiotray supports and middleaxle
The radiotray supports are made out of magnesium, this makes them even lighter as plastic parts, but still a lot stronger.
And it's pretty cool to have some F1 style parts on your R/C car.
The middleaxle assembly has been made out of aluminum, as many other parts on the car. The axle itself is aluminum as well.
The middle axle also houses the eccentre for tensioning the front belt.
For the driveline I used the optional kevlar pulley's, these are really good as they don't attract dirt and provide for a much smoother drivetrain.
Step 8, Rear suspension
You start out with the rear uprights. As standard the car is supplied with lightweight steel pivotballs. These give an increased steering throw and are more durable for the US style tracks.
Since I will only be running on euro style tracks I opted so save some additional weight and used aluminum pivotballs.
The wheelhexes and wheelaxles are made out of one piece. The wheelaxles are placed into the upright from the upside and secured by a C-clip on the inside. By using shims you're able to change the offset.
In the rear aluminum dogbones are used, compared to CVD's these provide more steering.
Wishbones, bulkheads and rear shocktower fitted. Shocktower is made out of 4mm carbon and is fitted to the bulkhead very securely.
I don't have any pictures from all the different steps of mounting the diff, gearbox supports, 2-speed axle and rear uprights.
Building went very quick and easy and I simply forgot to take pictures.
Step 11, Battery
For a battery I used a 900Mah Lipo pack combined with a regulator.
I've been using this combination for over 2 years and never had an electronic failure since. Also the Lipo pack with a regulator makes for a very consistent car as all electrics are always getting 6.4 volts, even under higher loads.
The battery pack is very thin which allows the tank to be lowered as much as 5mm.
Behind the battery there is space to put some very needed additional weight.
As the car is 100grams below minimum weight I used Tungsten. This material has a density 4 times as high as lead. With just some plain lead I wouldn't have been able to fit all of it to the car.
The brass battery tray is supplied as standard and helps getting close to the minimum weight
Step 12, Middle axle
Tensionor integrated into the middle axle, all drivebelts are low-friction versions as standard.
Step 13, front suspension
For the front suspension I choosed to use a wire type anti rollbar instead of the standard blade type ARB. A wire type ARB is more consistent and very easy to get tweak-free. Disadvantage is that you have to change the entire wire in order to change the hardness, but this is a 5 minute job.
Downstop screws are pushing straight onto the wishbone, this is very nice as you won't have any changed downstops anymore when you're de-tweaking the ARB.
Front bumper mounted
Step 16, Radiotray
The fueltank is the same as the on the Xray NT1 uses, this is a good thing as it is the best fueltank available.
As a throttle servo I uses a low-profile version from futaba, this allowed me to mount the servo 5mm below the radiotray.
De steering servo is a normal one from Sanwa, have been using this for 5 years now and it is still going strong.
Shortened all the wiring for looks and a little more weight saving.
Step 17, Final assembly
I don't have any pictures yet from the lasts steps of the radiotray assembly or assembling the clutch. These will be added later on.
The engine is also from Capricorn, a Lab-E01 BC. This is one of the fastest, if not the fastest engine currently available, 108.4 km/h (67.3 m/ph) on the backstraight.
Tires fitted, and a completed car.
Body shell painted: