Originally Posted by Roadrash730
so running my car two weekends ago and everything has been, fine car was runnin good and all the sudden it started to sound lean and like i stripped a gear, so i pulled in shut it down and when i looked one of the flyweights was brokenin half and hanging out from behind the allu. plate that the clutch bell sits on and the shoe was melted. ??????? i havent changed the clutch setup since ive been running the car it has never hit real hard like there was too much gap or anything it like the shoe wore down so much that the flyweight was able to slip out and jam everything up.
the clutch was set as per the manual running 0mm on the spring tension
It was probably caused by the broken flyweight. This caused the clutch to jam and burned out the clutch shoe. The shoe couldn't disengage so it burned out.
The broken flyweight is a thing that can happen, it happens a lot with the Xray clutch. Mostly because of the hard springs we run these days with the high powered engines. If you want this not to happen you should make all the clutch parts bigger, but this is something which isn't desirable because of the weight.
Originally Posted by el salvador
Hey DS Motorsport,
I'd revise the Top Deck Brace like Xray does so you don't schread the Front Belt!
And Musti72, I too have the LAB-E01 (non WC version) w/2662 pipe set, this Engine puts "The Stupid" into "Stupid Fast"!
Also, my Car weighs 1690 grams w/Brass Batt plate, NiMh reciever pack and Body installed!
I will keep an eye on the front belt, at the moment it isn't touching, but thanks for the heads up.
Yes, the 2662 pipe makes it even better, gives the engine even more top end.
Originally Posted by gfilos
did the kit came with the wire type front anti-roll bar?
No it doesn't, I already had the wire type Fr. ARB because I made it fit to my NT1.
The kit includes a improved version of the blade type ARB, the downstops are separated from the ARB.
Originally Posted by musti72
actually i was thinking for the whole race that engine reached max. power, i was running 18.0 laps. at the final i was leading with 3 laps, 15mins to go. then a shock screw loosened which put me to 4th place, i rejoined to the track leaning the engine a little. After that it was the most exciting 10mins of racing. about 5 minutes to go I was 2nd, when leader had an unlucky crash and retired. so i won the race.
Originally Posted by T.Senna
"Had to add 20 grams to the left side to balance the car, I added 15 next to the battery and 5 behind the engine mount against the LR bulkhead".
DS Motorsport how did you balance thr car?
The chassis have two holes in the chassis and you use that two pins that Hudy have? To see if it is symmetrical left and right?
I know Kyosho and NT1 have that holes in the chassis...
And last the recever box from nt1 can be adapt in Capr.?
Ps.Sorry for my bad English
The chassis features two holes for balancing, but I prefer another way of balancing.
I only use 1 Hudy pin on one side of the car and a set of scales on the other side.
Make sure the scales are leveled and the car is pretty much leveled as well, also use a set of setup wheels or Hudy stands.
This way you are able to balance the car within one gram and move the weights so the front and rear axle are both balanced (start with the front axle and then the rear axle)
For best results you should replace the shocks with a set of turnbuckles.
The NT1 box doesn't fit, you can make it fit by turning it around and drill a new hole in the radioplate.
However I really like the bracket provided with the car, it is mounted in rubber bushings and has some space between the servo and the bracket so it's able to give a little when the car takes a hit there.
I've been running the receiver like this for two years already and never broke one, in case of rain I wrap it with kitchen paper put the receiver in a Tamiya balloon and stuff the balloon with putty and seal it with two Ty-raps. Never had a failure.