impalabob64

iTrader: (2)

I picked up an good Lab C01 ran it this weekend at a clubrace wow the car is insane with an OS Speed 12 XZ was able to put me 4th position in the A-final though it was only a 15min main was able to finish 2nd.Still have more to learn about the car, i would like to thank DJ for the setup help.

British Menace

Congratulations on the run .... I'm just waiting for my car to come through the mail. Hopefully it wont be much longer......

BM

speed6

Tried the above but lost too much steering.

Did some timing and with the RED springs I was around /average .35 faster per lap than with the BLACK springs.

I also run the 6 hole pistons with 1000 diff oil, since I went to RED from BLACK shall I run lighter oil 800 for eg?

Thanks

CapricornRC

usually we use
6 hole 2000wt =2hole 650wt
6 hole 1800wt=2hole 600wt

dj apolaro

When using 6 holes you need a heavier oil. The initial response of the car comes from the pistons resistance initially. At the moment you have no resistance and therefore the car is lazy in comparison. The way you have it will give more steering in the middle of the turn, but on entry will be less. The heavier oil about 1500-2000 will provided better turn in.

The shock position laid down gave you less turn in I am sure. However combining that with shorter camber links and stiffer front sway bar has made my car have plenty of steering and response.

DJ Apolaro

rowveg36

iTrader: (21)

Guys, I'm sorry if this has been ask before.. What is the difference between the blue and red clutch? W/c one grips better? Thanks for the info..

speed6

So if I am running on a bumby and most of the time dirty track what do you recommend to combine red springs as for shock oil?

Have you ever tried shortening the front camber link? Does it work

1nsane

Still need help thank you

Chickentrader

iTrader: (13)

There are more experienced people than myself that may have a better solution to the changing droop than what I can here, but I’ll share our experience since you need an answer. I don’t know how experienced you are, so please don’t be offended if I sound a little patronising.

First of all click on this link: Michael Salven Pro tips part 4 and watch the section about downstops.

Always check for tweak after each race; you’ll have problems setting up a tweaked car! Swaybars can make affect droop settings if the car is tweaked, and its very important to set the eccentric tweak adjusters (for blade) or wire swaybar adjusters for the swaybar correctly. And check that the tweak adjuster has not come loose, if you use a blade sway bar.

Its best to ignore M.S.’s advice and disconnect both shockies and sway bar for as start, and get it perfect with all disconnected. Aluminium treads wear when screws are moved a few times, and you need to use medium or low grip threadlock, just like you do to stop the grub screws from moving. We sometimes find that our front droop has changed marginally between races, but never as much as a full 1 mm, but we don’t see it as a major problem. Not sure what causes it, but it’s not swaybar, not tweak and we can feel the threadlock breaking loose when readjusting the grub screws, so perhaps it caused by slight changes to too pliable little downstop lugs on the arms.

We also think that M.S. has a point with his advice about adjusting the droop with shockies on, but we feel that its better to start without them on, and then check again with shockies on when its all done. We usually check droop settings between races with swaybars and shockies on, and against all teachings; our experience is that minor corrections to droop can be made without disconnecting anything. Before someone shoots me for this statement; we have actually tested it sometimes after minor corrections when the droop seems to have changed marginally, and then checked with swaybar disconnected. And we have never found a different droop reading to the first one for a car with no tweak. However we would welcome any input about this matter from anyone that disagrees.

Perhaps Harry has something to add or some remarks about this.

Kindest regards,
Lars.

blis

Not sure he means droop ("chassis upstop" preventing arms lowering) or down stop ("chassis downstop" preventing arms rising and chassis bottoming out). I never use downstops, I let the chassis plate do it for us.

So I wrote this

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10699491-post111.html

dj apolaro

I am not sure what you mean by shortening the front camber link. Do you mean making the track width narrower???

As for the shocks, I would try on a bumpy track 3 piston front and 4 piston rear with 50 or 55 wt shock oil. Maybe even try to drill the hole in the piston to 1mm. If you do this use the 55 wt oil.

Also on the bumpy track I would use white springs in the front with a stiffer front sway bar setting. You will also need more travel in the droop. If you run 4 in the rear try 3 (this is an example). Also if you use +1 in the front then try 0 (again an example).

The droop helps me a lot on bumpy track, but that is also because I run very little travel normally.

Hope that helps,

DJ Apolaro

1nsane

"It's how far down the arms will travel."

This

British Menace

Ok. Brousing Capricorn products to see if I've missed anything I need and I found these .......
Must be brand new out

http://www.capricornrc.com/capricorn...d_product=1774

Thinking I may need to investigate these asap

BM

djiewie

These will help you get the weightlimit. Great brand always improving.
Titanium does wear faster though.

British Menace

Really .... they must be using the softer grade 1 or 2 titanium. Still....... like you said. Should help get to the new 1550gto wieght limit. :-)

BM