Here I is a guide which will help you to setup the Edam Razor in a fast and
easy way. This guide will be of great assistance and importantance to insure that both the left and right side are setup identically. This is a very important and a good base to be followed. I will explain in steps to make this guide easy to understand and follow. Also, I will sho and explain how to build an easy setup-plate with a cost of $10 to $15.00.
To build this set up board all you need for it is a Square piece of wood or anything else similar that it is flat. The Size is 50x30cm (20"x12").
Additonally you need two pins 2mm in length, 2mm drill bit, a ruler and a
goniometer. And of course, a waterproof Pen. Look first in my handmade picture, it will explain a lot.
First make two holes in downside the Chasis. One in front and one in rear,
try to be perfect in the middle. Same distance as these small holes, make two holes in the plate and glue the two pins in it. Now you can adjust
your chasis on the selfmade setup plate. For a good setup, you also need a
set of clean rims.
Now make lines with a dark marker or fineliner, whatever you want . In the front, the line has to have 0 Degree toe. The reason is you do not want a changing wheelbase. Toe in or out line will not give true and constant measurement. The zeroline measurement will allways work because it is independent from the wheelbase.
The rear, make a zeronline also and a line with 2 Degrees Toe-in on each side. Make sure, that zeroline and 2-degree-line are crossing exactly in same
Line as the Wheelaxles are. Have a look on my schematic illustration.
Now you have a plate where you can adjust the car on Pins and you also can setup track width and toe identical from right to left. The easiest way I will describe in the following:
Assemble the car without shock absorbers in place. Put the clean rims without foam-tires on car. Adjust car on the two pins. Look for front and rear end. it must touch the plate, therefore reason for no shocks mounted.
Lean a rule on outside of the rims and turn in or out the pivot balls from
front steering blocks until the rule is exactly on line on setupboard.
With the goniometer, you now can adjust the camber to 0 Degrees. Check again with rule on zero line. Do this exactly the same on both sides, left and right, and you will have both sides trackwide and camber identical.
Now put your radio on and bring your steering servo to neutral. Now you can adjust steering rods to set the toe to zero. Lean the rule on rim and check both sides until you have zero Toe and zero Camber with a track width of 254mm. This is 127mm on each side. Screw out one screw from sway-bar-mount, so sway bar may not disturb. Now turn in or out the upstops, so, that steeringblock is touching the setup plate. If you turn in the screw a little more, the steering block should leave the setup plate. Screw it back, until Steeringblock is touching setup plate. Do the same on left and right sides. Mount again the sway-bar-mount, open the srew on left lower arm, where the eccentric adjustment is located. Adjust sway bar in this way so that lifting one side then other side is lifting also. Reaction speed should be the same for both. When this is done, turn in the screw into left lower arm.
Lets adjust rear-end.
Chasis is on plate, rear are clean rims on. Adjust trackwide in same way
with rule as at front, but till 264mm, 132mm on each side away from middle
line. Turn in or out both lower pivotballs and adjust upper arm. You should
adjust 0 camber and toe in of 2° on each side. I dont use upstops on rear.
Now, when chasis is on plate, all rims are ouching plate from inside to
outside, at this moment you have 0 Degree Camber. But, you normaly dont drive with zero camber.
Front: Turn in upper pivot-ball ,screw out the lower pivot ball. Turn both
identical turns until you have 1,5 or 2 Degrees negative Camber. Use a
goniometer leaned outside on rim. Do this left and right. (Display of
goniometer is showing 92°)
At rear you have 2 Degrees toe in. use goniometer in same way as on front
to adjust camber, but on rear you only short the upper arm, until
goniometer is showing 4 Degrees. (Display of goniometer is showing 94°)
Adjust the length of sway-bar-rods so, that reaction during lifting one
side from the other side is identical for both.
Now car is identical on left and right side. This is the most important
base for your own setup which is dependent on your driving style.
Whenever you make a change on toe in or camber, caster or track-wide, make the same on each side. Otherwise you will get a car, which reactions are different turning left and right. Now you can mount the shock absorbers. Adjust the height of chasis in front to 6mm, rear to 8mm.
Check out the tweak of chasis in following way:
Mount new tires on car.Touch car down to ground , keep hands away and than lift up left front tyre. Look, which tyre will left next when you lift front left. Do again touch down, lift right front tyre and look which tyre is lifting
next. Reactions should be inversely the same. Then you have no tweak on chasis. Do this on each tyre.
If during lift the front left tyre the rear left lifting, and during lifting
right front tyre, the left front, you have to adjust springs!
When you are ready with this all (with a little practise, it needs only a
few minutes), you can go on racetrack to check out the car.
Front tyres should be plane after driving, perhaps a little conical to
inside. Rear tyres always should be conical to inside. For springs, you also can use the serpent-springs in colour yellow, red, blue and purple.
If car is not runing as you want or expect because oversteering or
understeering, you should test another setup. Change always only one thing! Do same on both sides (except sway bar, you can, but you must not) and
check out the changes during test drive. Take notice, what you changed and what happend. ( for example: front sway bar from smooth to hard> more gripp at turn in, less gripp in corner) check out, which changes will bring which effect and make notice.
If you do this you will quickly learn how to setup your car in a way that you are happy with. It needs time, but the performance will be better and better. I always try to get "harmony". It is bad, when car is sometimes
oversteering and some times understeering. If car is allways oversteering, use tyres with less hardness in rear or harder front tyres.
If car is allways understeer, use less hardness on front tyres or harder
rear tyres. When I search for "my perfect setup", I try to be happy in low and middle-speed corners. Over and understeer in fast corners, I adjust with the "rear gurney flap" (tear-off edge)
If you found your "perfect" setup, you can change your "ground-setup" for
the future. Make new lines for track-width, camber and toe-in toe-out, so as your drive now and in the future you will be happy.
Sure I know that this setup guide is not perfect, and there are many
things some others can add. However, nobody is perfect,
and my request is not to tell a race-driver how to setup his car. No, my request is, to help a beginner with such a car in setup and learn how to setup a car. I will help you to come on feet, but walking and runing, you have to learn yourself
Greetings from Bavaria
Thank you Stephan for your time and excellent information. This is what our thread is for. Edam racers and future Edam racers!