V1RR drive train Q in search of A
03-06-2004, 11:49 PM
#1
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
V1RR drive train Q in search of A
There's seems to be a lot of drag on the drive train especially after installing the engine.
The gear mess is tight but there's no way to open the mesh up without filing the chasis engine mount holes.
Is this common? A lot of fine tuning has been noticed with this kit and it's a 100% surprise since my other Kyosho kits have gone together without having to "fine tune", "shave" or use after market parts.
The gear mess is tight but there's no way to open the mesh up without filing the chasis engine mount holes.
Is this common? A lot of fine tuning has been noticed with this kit and it's a 100% surprise since my other Kyosho kits have gone together without having to "fine tune", "shave" or use after market parts.
03-07-2004, 12:24 AM
#2
no offense, but look over on how you installed your engine. unless there is a kit defect (highly unlikely, but still possible), the stock gears should mesh very well with each other.
there should be a very small about of play to position the engine. it may be possible that the engine is not 100% perpendicular to the gears and therefore the spurs and pinions teeth are not "parallel" to each other.
i noticed that once when i was installing a new engine on my old RR and corrected it. also if you are installing the engine with the exhaust on and trying to fit it while the retainer wire is on the pipe, that can effect how the engine sits. my suggestion in that case is to remove the exhaust completely, install the engine in correct position, then install exhaust.
hope this helps.
ps. do not file your chassis. the stock engine mount holes on the chassis work just fine.
there should be a very small about of play to position the engine. it may be possible that the engine is not 100% perpendicular to the gears and therefore the spurs and pinions teeth are not "parallel" to each other.
i noticed that once when i was installing a new engine on my old RR and corrected it. also if you are installing the engine with the exhaust on and trying to fit it while the retainer wire is on the pipe, that can effect how the engine sits. my suggestion in that case is to remove the exhaust completely, install the engine in correct position, then install exhaust.
hope this helps.
ps. do not file your chassis. the stock engine mount holes on the chassis work just fine.
03-07-2004, 01:15 AM
#3
Apart from the usual trimming of flashing from some of the plastics I found no real "fine tune" issues.
But at the end of the day, if all the engine mounts etc. check out as correct, then I'd just modify the mounting holes. You may need a mill to do it properly 'cos the recess for the washers will also need to be enlarged.
But at the end of the day, if all the engine mounts etc. check out as correct, then I'd just modify the mounting holes. You may need a mill to do it properly 'cos the recess for the washers will also need to be enlarged.
03-07-2004, 01:37 AM
#4
the gear mesh of the V One RR in stock trim, if built properly, is fine with the stock engine mount holes. it is not necessary for someone to mill out the engine mount holes in the chassis unless you are doing some sort of custom gear that has a huge pinion.
i honestly believe that in tom's case its most likely user-end related; he probably misalligned something or built something incorrectly. although like i said before it is also possible (but unlikely) a defect in either the chassis or the engine mounts themselves.
do not mill out the chassis. check how you mounted the engine, check your chassis and make sure its not tweaked, check and make sure the rear bulkhead isnt tweaked, make sure the bearings supporting the main shaft are seated correctly, etc. just dont break out the dremel.
i honestly believe that in tom's case its most likely user-end related; he probably misalligned something or built something incorrectly. although like i said before it is also possible (but unlikely) a defect in either the chassis or the engine mounts themselves.
do not mill out the chassis. check how you mounted the engine, check your chassis and make sure its not tweaked, check and make sure the rear bulkhead isnt tweaked, make sure the bearings supporting the main shaft are seated correctly, etc. just dont break out the dremel.
Last edited by icon; 03-07-2004 at 01:57 AM.
03-07-2004, 05:07 AM
#6
Tech Rookie
Do Not cut the chassis!!
I had the same problem when i first built my RR!!
Bolt on the engine mounts to the engine and leave the right one loose!! then bolt the motor to the chassis and use a peice of paper to get the correct mesh, then tighten the right engine mount!!!
Hank
I had the same problem when i first built my RR!!
Bolt on the engine mounts to the engine and leave the right one loose!! then bolt the motor to the chassis and use a peice of paper to get the correct mesh, then tighten the right engine mount!!!
Hank
03-07-2004, 07:03 AM
#7
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
Been there, done that
I appreciate everything answer and suggestion posted. I appreciate the quickness even greater.
This is my eigth kit. The instructions were double checked [this is my third RR kit], every rear-end installation dismounted and re-installed. All alignments and angles measured with calibrated electronics. I've even prayed to the RC Gods [unusual since I only resort to this when I hit the wall and need to finish the heat for series points]. Nothing.
I'm happy to see I'm not nuts! Every post just reconfirms my resulting thoughts. This is just a defect kit or munafturing standards and tolerances are just bad. Had similar problems with the front's one-way, pront pulley and upper plate, although not nearly as severe.
I may just try another chasis plate and see if a notable difference is present. Then is off to Kyoshos' Help Desk [wonder if they'd understand a New York City accent with a hint on Texan-twang?].
Thanks.
Brain..yup...'nother kit...da wife not happy...Tom in fear....I should know better....must like the punishment...LOL LOL
This is my eigth kit. The instructions were double checked [this is my third RR kit], every rear-end installation dismounted and re-installed. All alignments and angles measured with calibrated electronics. I've even prayed to the RC Gods [unusual since I only resort to this when I hit the wall and need to finish the heat for series points]. Nothing.
I'm happy to see I'm not nuts! Every post just reconfirms my resulting thoughts. This is just a defect kit or munafturing standards and tolerances are just bad. Had similar problems with the front's one-way, pront pulley and upper plate, although not nearly as severe.
I may just try another chasis plate and see if a notable difference is present. Then is off to Kyoshos' Help Desk [wonder if they'd understand a New York City accent with a hint on Texan-twang?].
Thanks.
Brain..yup...'nother kit...da wife not happy...Tom in fear....I should know better....must like the punishment...LOL LOL
03-07-2004, 11:56 AM
#8
Re: Been there, done that
Originally posted by Tom G
I appreciate everything answer and suggestion posted. I appreciate the quickness even greater.
This is my eigth kit. The instructions were double checked [this is my third RR kit], every rear-end installation dismounted and re-installed. All alignments and angles measured with calibrated electronics. I've even prayed to the RC Gods [unusual since I only resort to this when I hit the wall and need to finish the heat for series points]. Nothing.
I'm happy to see I'm not nuts! Every post just reconfirms my resulting thoughts. This is just a defect kit or munafturing standards and tolerances are just bad. Had similar problems with the front's one-way, pront pulley and upper plate, although not nearly as severe.
I may just try another chasis plate and see if a notable difference is present. Then is off to Kyoshos' Help Desk [wonder if they'd understand a New York City accent with a hint on Texan-twang?].
Thanks.
Brain..yup...'nother kit...da wife not happy...Tom in fear....I should know better....must like the punishment...LOL LOL
I appreciate everything answer and suggestion posted. I appreciate the quickness even greater.
This is my eigth kit. The instructions were double checked [this is my third RR kit], every rear-end installation dismounted and re-installed. All alignments and angles measured with calibrated electronics. I've even prayed to the RC Gods [unusual since I only resort to this when I hit the wall and need to finish the heat for series points]. Nothing.
I'm happy to see I'm not nuts! Every post just reconfirms my resulting thoughts. This is just a defect kit or munafturing standards and tolerances are just bad. Had similar problems with the front's one-way, pront pulley and upper plate, although not nearly as severe.
I may just try another chasis plate and see if a notable difference is present. Then is off to Kyoshos' Help Desk [wonder if they'd understand a New York City accent with a hint on Texan-twang?].
Thanks.
Brain..yup...'nother kit...da wife not happy...Tom in fear....I should know better....must like the punishment...LOL LOL
03-07-2004, 04:10 PM
#9
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
Engine make/model
It's a Wasp .12 trubo.
I did try to install a Sirio and agree on the SG shaft. It does have to adjusted. The bell and gears just don't line up.
With the Wasp, the mesh is just tight.
I did try to install a Sirio and agree on the SG shaft. It does have to adjusted. The bell and gears just don't line up.
With the Wasp, the mesh is just tight.
03-07-2004, 10:14 PM
#10
tom, do you have a pic of the gear mesh (side and top view please) and also pictures of how the engine is mounted in relation to the chassis, etc. ?
03-07-2004, 11:26 PM
#11
Well, I still mostly agree with icon and I'd believe a defective chassis is pretty unlikely. The rear end bulkheads are a fixed location but just maybe it is the chassis. If, you have another chassis to check it against, that would be usefull. But if Tom G has built three of these kits, I'm expecting he knows what he's doing. And if he's got "all alignments and angles measured with calibrated electronics", it's getting a bit difficult to blame him. 
Anyway, the essence of my point is that I don't believe the chassis is sacred and if you need an extra .5mm to get the engine where you need it, then so be it. Let's face it, this is a five minute job and he certainly can't run it with no gear clearence.
. . . and, yes, I've extended the chassis holes on our EVO to enable me to get proper gear mesh. It really isn't a big deal.
Anyway, the essence of my point is that I don't believe the chassis is sacred and if you need an extra .5mm to get the engine where you need it, then so be it. Let's face it, this is a five minute job and he certainly can't run it with no gear clearence.
. . . and, yes, I've extended the chassis holes on our EVO to enable me to get proper gear mesh. It really isn't a big deal.
03-08-2004, 01:54 AM
#12
tom isnt the only one who has built 3 V One R(R)'s .
seriously though, of all the V One's I have built, i've never had any trouble with gear mesh (the one time i did have drivetrain trouble, it was my own fault). when built perfectly, the stock V One R is just about flawless in fit and finish.
i dont have trouble with people modding or drilling their chassis, but if the person has gear mesh problems with the stock parts, and they are not defective, then i'm afraid that the car itself could be built incorrectly and have tweak, which would result in an ill handling car. experience in the same car helps, but even the best of us sometimes overlook something very simple; i'll be the first to admit i often times do.
i just thought of another thing, how well is the top brace and top deck supports mounted? if those are not fastened on properly, it could tweak the chassis enough for improper gearmesh.
and worst comes to worst check the chassis plate itself for tweak. remove everything and put the sucker on the glass counter and see if its flat.
.seriously though, of all the V One's I have built, i've never had any trouble with gear mesh (the one time i did have drivetrain trouble, it was my own fault). when built perfectly, the stock V One R is just about flawless in fit and finish.
i dont have trouble with people modding or drilling their chassis, but if the person has gear mesh problems with the stock parts, and they are not defective, then i'm afraid that the car itself could be built incorrectly and have tweak, which would result in an ill handling car. experience in the same car helps, but even the best of us sometimes overlook something very simple; i'll be the first to admit i often times do
. i just thought of another thing, how well is the top brace and top deck supports mounted? if those are not fastened on properly, it could tweak the chassis enough for improper gearmesh.
and worst comes to worst check the chassis plate itself for tweak. remove everything and put the sucker on the glass counter and see if its flat.
03-08-2004, 05:13 AM
#13
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
Break down and rebuild
Ok, ok, I give.
I'll shoop pics and post them. I'll also break it down and rebuild after check the chasis.
I'll let you guys know once I get it broken down, inspected and put back together.
Thanks for all the knowledge.
^5s
I'll shoop pics and post them. I'll also break it down and rebuild after check the chasis.
I'll let you guys know once I get it broken down, inspected and put back together.
Thanks for all the knowledge.
^5s
03-08-2004, 10:02 AM
#14
Re: Engine make/model
Originally posted by Tom G
It's a Wasp .12 trubo.
I did try to install a Sirio and agree on the SG shaft. It does have to adjusted. The bell and gears just don't line up.
With the Wasp, the mesh is just tight.
It's a Wasp .12 trubo.
I did try to install a Sirio and agree on the SG shaft. It does have to adjusted. The bell and gears just don't line up.
With the Wasp, the mesh is just tight.
03-08-2004, 02:28 PM
#15
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
Nova engine
Nope, don't have one and can't get my paws on one.
The Wasp engine looks almost identical to the OS TR12 and it was the engine Extreme RC Cars [MAR03 issue] installed in it for the article reviewing the RR.
Eventually, I'll either figure it out, mod the chasis, wear out the gears and spurs [for proper gear mesh,....jsut kidding] or just chuck it and get a Mugen or Serpent! LOL LOL
^5s
The Wasp engine looks almost identical to the OS TR12 and it was the engine Extreme RC Cars [MAR03 issue] installed in it for the article reviewing the RR.
Eventually, I'll either figure it out, mod the chasis, wear out the gears and spurs [for proper gear mesh,....jsut kidding] or just chuck it and get a Mugen or Serpent! LOL LOL
^5s
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