Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road
European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class >

European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class

Like Tree52Likes

European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class

Old 08-12-2013, 05:15 PM
  #2971  
Tech Master
 
Taylorm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Monclova, Ohio
Posts: 1,659
Default

Originally Posted by aarcobra
Matt,
I just got another 300, my 4th, I think! I'm restoring for profit (I hope!) Do you know 1)What the white plastic material Associated used for the radio tray and other flat plastic parts is and where I can get some? 2) I have a radio tray but need a pattern for the other parts.
I don't think it is nylon, but some other plastic...
..always thought it was kydex
Taylorm is offline  
Old 08-12-2013, 05:17 PM
  #2972  
Tech Master
 
Taylorm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Monclova, Ohio
Posts: 1,659
Default

Originally Posted by 5italkart
and you can fix your plumbing as well what shapes the 12e in matt?
rough...ill email pics tonight
Taylorm is offline  
Old 08-12-2013, 05:55 PM
  #2973  
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,136
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default Thanks!

Originally Posted by Taylorm
rough...ill email pics tonight
Thanks Matt! If you can get some dimensions so I can make up the pieces it would help. I guess there is the rear body support (which isn't too hard to figure out!!), and the bumper. I'm not sure if the 300 had the body mount piece or not...

P.S. I won't be able to make it to the GLC...again. I've been having back issues and don't think I can make the drive etc.
aarcobra is offline  
Old 08-12-2013, 06:03 PM
  #2974  
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,136
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Taylorm
..always thought it was kydex
Don't think so. Associated's plastic is not as stiff? as kydex and the stuff that came with the cars was smooth on both sides while all of the "kydex" I've seen is textured on one side and smooth on the other. Another thing that makes me pretty sure the Associated stuff is not kydex is the distinctive smell of kydex when you melt it like by cutting it with an abrasive wheel, it stinks!!!

I'm thinking if I can find some for sure ABS I can melt it and the Associated stuff and see if they act/smell the same or not. Similar stuff can help identify different alloys by looking at the spark color and pattern when you put pieces on a grinder...
aarcobra is offline  
Old 08-13-2013, 09:56 AM
  #2975  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
 
ScottE1776's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 344
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

in
Originally Posted by aarcobra
Don't think so. Associated's plastic is not as stiff? as kydex and the stuff that came with the cars was smooth on both sides while all of the "kydex" I've seen is textured on one side and smooth on the other. Another thing that makes me pretty sure the Associated stuff is not kydex is the distinctive smell of kydex when you melt it like by cutting it with an abrasive wheel, it stinks!!!

I'm thinking if I can find some for sure ABS I can melt it and the Associated stuff and see if they act/smell the same or not. Similar stuff can help identify different alloys by looking at the spark color and pattern when you put pieces on a grinder...
Yeah the old Associated stuff is not Kydex. We used to replace it with Kydex because you could heat bend Kydex and the Associated polycarbonate would melt a much lower temp. Bought a couple of 4'x8' sheets of each though from a Plastic's distribution company in Phoenix in the late 70's. The white poly was a lot cheaper. I would investigate that avenue. Often you can visit the Distributor and pick out the sheet you want. Try a company like http://www.nationwideplastics.net

Last edited by ScottE1776; 08-13-2013 at 09:59 AM. Reason: info
ScottE1776 is offline  
Old 08-13-2013, 10:38 AM
  #2976  
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,136
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ScottE1776
in

Yeah the old Associated stuff is not Kydex. We used to replace it with Kydex because you could heat bend Kydex and the Associated polycarbonate would melt a much lower temp. Bought a couple of 4'x8' sheets of each though from a Plastic's distribution company in Phoenix in the late 70's. The white poly was a lot cheaper. I would investigate that avenue. Often you can visit the Distributor and pick out the sheet you want. Try a company like http://www.nationwideplastics.net
Thanks! I'll check it out.
aarcobra is offline  
Old 08-13-2013, 03:12 PM
  #2977  
Tech Master
 
Taylorm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Monclova, Ohio
Posts: 1,659
Default

Originally Posted by aarcobra
Thanks Matt! If you can get some dimensions so I can make up the pieces it would help. I guess there is the rear body support (which isn't too hard to figure out!!), and the bumper. I'm not sure if the 300 had the body mount piece or not...

P.S. I won't be able to make it to the GLC...again. I've been having back issues and don't think I can make the drive etc.
..ned what pieces are you trying to reproduce?...the front body mount support??....
Taylorm is offline  
Old 08-13-2013, 09:24 PM
  #2978  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
MrHistory's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 597
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

We are excited to announce the arrival of the multiple Italian Championship winning GT Due Chassis, the race proven platform from WRC Racing. The GT Due chassis and complete parts inventory are now available in the United States at a very competitive price to build the 2wd Pan Car class.

Later in the year we will also offer the Evo chassis, and will support both platforms for the 2014 season.

We have created a new forum to offer support and discussion of the WRC line of pan cars, with set up information, build tips, and input from the European team. In the coming days we will launch our US website and provide the list of preferred US dealers to support your local clubs and hobby shops.

And as mentioned before, we will attend the Great Lakes Challenge this month and look forward to supporting the pan car drivers at the race.

Happy Racing!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...car-forum.html
MrHistory is offline  
Old 08-14-2013, 05:36 PM
  #2979  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 498
Default real electric cars

REAL ELECTRIC CARS SAY 'BLACK & DECKER' ALL OVER. NOW BACK TO THE GAS STUFF. AARCOBRA, thought we might have run into you at Cincinnati. WRC looked very good and Rick Davis was seen running (on foot) in the pits.
Great stuff! You should have been there!!
Das 1/8th Mopar is offline  
Old 08-14-2013, 06:01 PM
  #2980  
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,136
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default ?

Originally Posted by Das 1/8th Mopar
REAL ELECTRIC CARS SAY 'BLACK & DECKER' ALL OVER. NOW BACK TO THE GAS STUFF. AARCOBRA, thought we might have run into you at Cincinnati. WRC looked very good and Rick Davis was seen running (on foot) in the pits.
Great stuff! You should have been there!!
Glad you had fun! Looks like not many racers... Who drove the WRC? As far as electric cars, not sure what you are referring to.
aarcobra is offline  
Old 08-14-2013, 06:05 PM
  #2981  
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,136
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default 300 pix/dimensions

Originally Posted by Taylorm
..ned what pieces are you trying to reproduce?...the front body mount support??....
Yes that and the bumper, but I can probably fake it ok. Just want to add some stuff to the three new 300 chassis I have to make them more complete.
aarcobra is offline  
Old 08-14-2013, 09:18 PM
  #2982  
Tech Master
 
Taylorm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Monclova, Ohio
Posts: 1,659
Default

Originally Posted by aarcobra
Yes that and the bumper, but I can probably fake it ok. Just want to add some stuff to the three new 300 chassis I have to make them more complete.
I have both pieces..you want me to trace them and snail mail them to you??
Taylorm is offline  
Old 08-22-2013, 08:59 PM
  #2983  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
 
ScottE1776's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 344
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

I just pulled the trigger on a RC300BD. Course I'm way out in Mesa, AZ but at some point I hope to be racing pan cars again. One of you mentioned the Super J front end. Associated had one piece aluminum Front end in 1976; it was made for them by R&A and was a special order (SP) part. Eventually they added it to the RC200. I totally agree that would be the way to go for a bullet proof front end that is easy to machine and simple to maintain. The second choice might be the two piece stamped front end from an RC1J or RC100. Staying away from molded plastic is probably best.
Here is a picture of the one piece.
http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/vehi...200-manual.pdf
(page 11)

Additionally. The RC100 used an aluminum chassis plate. I can remember that as the choice option on all the cars back then. The fiberglass piece on the RC200/300 might be more difficult to make. I could foresee a sheet of 7075 aluminum. Cut into a Trapezoid shape and perhaps anodized gold or blue for looks. It would look like Bruce Fields Scorpion Car from the same time period. Plus not having an hourglass shape would reduce cost and increase the number of pieces one could make from a 4x8 sheet of 7075.

Ref the above. I went through a lot more posts in this thread and noticed that HitchaRide1 had found and was using a quality fiberglass in his prototype. Hopefully that will "pan" out :-)

Last edited by ScottE1776; 08-22-2013 at 11:18 PM. Reason: info
ScottE1776 is offline  
Old 08-23-2013, 08:00 AM
  #2984  
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,136
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default Vintage Assoc. 300BD Type Cars

Originally Posted by ScottE1776
I just pulled the trigger on a RC300BD. Course I'm way out in Mesa, AZ but at some point I hope to be racing pan cars again. One of you mentioned the Super J front end. Associated had one piece aluminum Front end in 1976; it was made for them by R&A and was a special order (SP) part. Eventually they added it to the RC200. I totally agree that would be the way to go for a bullet proof front end that is easy to machine and simple to maintain. The second choice might be the two piece stamped front end from an RC1J or RC100. Staying away from molded plastic is probably best.
Here is a picture of the one piece.
http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/vehi...200-manual.pdf
(page 11)

Additionally. The RC100 used an aluminum chassis plate. I can remember that as the choice option on all the cars back then. The fiberglass piece on the RC200/300 might be more difficult to make. I could foresee a sheet of 7075 aluminum. Cut into a Trapezoid shape and perhaps anodized gold or blue for looks. It would look like Bruce Fields Scorpion Car from the same time period. Plus not having an hourglass shape would reduce cost and increase the number of pieces one could make from a 4x8 sheet of 7075.

Ref the above. I went through a lot more posts in this thread and noticed that HitchaRide1 had found and was using a quality fiberglass in his prototype. Hopefully that will "pan" out :-)
Interesting to see your interest in the vintage pan cars. If you would take the time to read the posts in this thread, you would see many of the comments you have made have been discussed before. Also, This tread is intended for discussion of the "European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class" which is not the same as the cars you are talking about. May I suggest you keep an eye on this thread but make vintage pan car comments in the "12 Attachment(s) Spec 1/8 Pan Car .21 no frill's racing". You may get more responses over there without mixing in so much of the European Style cars.

A quick comment on your thoughts. Aluminum bends and stays bent, called "tweek", That is why it was discontinued from use on pan cars. Appearently the jury is still out on the Euro Types, some use aluminum, some G-10 or CF. Fiberglass is extremely easy to work with and imho the much better than aluminum.
The shape is an option to change the characteristics of the pan and was used on aluminum pans also. Usually the "necked down" shape is wider at the front and read of the pan and would have little effect on the amount of material used.
There are many shapes and types of front end designs which could be successfully used. I favor an early Delta front that was a 1/2" square Alum bar with kingpins mounted at each end as being simple and strong.

Best of luck with your project!!

Ned
aarcobra is offline  
Old 08-23-2013, 08:53 AM
  #2985  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
 
ScottE1776's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 344
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Ned. Yeah as I mentioned above I did take the time to go through quite a bit of this thread. It appeared that several folks were discussing the idea of making a new pan car and I'm extremely interested in that.
The link that I posted (did you look?) pointed to a one piece front.

I'm understand what tweak is btw and certainly Aluminum (and fiberglass) can tweak. I made mention of the aluminum because often that can be milled more cheaply. (I believe Fiberglass has more safety concerns). After I made that comment though I noticed that Hitcharide1 had found and was able to work with fiberglass at a really cheap price.
Lastly your pics on the other thread look to be an excellent prototype for the car. I would be a customer for that type of car for certain.

Last edited by ScottE1776; 08-23-2013 at 11:03 AM.
ScottE1776 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.