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Old 08-30-2012, 06:44 AM   #1891
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Works for me, fire when ready. I'm running 35 percent (until you tell me that's too much or something in which case I'll change.) The car handled like a dream, just didn't have the oomph needed to get the job done. Carb was tuned pretty well and my gearing seemed on the money, just no pop out of the motor with the current shim. Beyond that, I have eight plugs left, so give me an idea on shim and I'll try it and hope I figure it out by plug number seven![/QUOTE]

35% Nitro is OK but most have dropped to 25% for extra mileage , for that nitro percantage you'll need around .030" to .032" gap at the squish band for current Nova motors , checked with solder or an indicator making sure to do the correct math compenasating for the pison bowl. FYI lack of punch could also be greatly affected by header length , pipe type , clutch setting and of course carb tuning.
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Old 08-30-2012, 06:48 AM   #1892
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Default Heh

[QUOTE=Dasmopar;11152769]
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Originally Posted by hitcharide1 View Post

Which car are you trying to get more "oomph" out of?
The Edam, of course. I already know where I'm screwing up with my 35 year old picco on the delta, and I'll have that fixed before the next club race.
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Old 08-30-2012, 06:55 AM   #1893
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Default Thank you sir

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Works for me, fire when ready. I'm running 35 percent (until you tell me that's too much or something in which case I'll change.) The car handled like a dream, just didn't have the oomph needed to get the job done. Carb was tuned pretty well and my gearing seemed on the money, just no pop out of the motor with the current shim. Beyond that, I have eight plugs left, so give me an idea on shim and I'll try it and hope I figure it out by plug number seven!
35% Nitro is OK but most have dropped to 25% for extra mileage , for that nitro percantage you'll need around .030" to .032" gap at the squish band for current Nova motors , checked with solder or an indicator making sure to do the correct math compenasating for the pison bowl. FYI lack of punch could also be greatly affected by header length , pipe type , clutch setting and of course carb tuning.[/QUOTE]

I'll start with that and go from there. The way it is now, it's a little like merging onto the highway with a four banger and everyone else has a 360. I think it's a good bullet, just needs some tweakage to it. We also discovered that S&H makes a great engine but a lousy carb (Tom's car) and are addressing that as well. That engine Dave has on his (Vox) is a real screamer and were I less stubborn, I'd have just bought that one off Lon, but since my engine is fairly new as well I want to give it a chance before I write it off and move on.
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:11 AM   #1894
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Default Newer MRP

I understand the guy that originally made these is alive and kicking and hanging around on Sgrid somewhere. Someone ought to talk him into reproducing the thing...it had its faults but it was very inexpensive, could go very fast, and was a good contender in super stock back in the day.
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European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-100_1484.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-100_1486.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-100_1488.jpg  
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:20 AM   #1895
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Default What I did best with

The Super Eagle. I did pretty well with this thing in the Midwest Series, but then again, it was so durable and easy to drive that it practically drove itself. Sweet, sweet ride. Out of all the crap I'm going to sell this year, I'm keeping one of these...seems like the longer I have something the harder it is to get rid of it, and I've got a house and garage full of stuff like that. Got a pretty good coin collection but that doesn't take up much space (doesn't go as fast down the backstraight either but worth a hell of a lot more.)
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European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-100_1499.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-100_1501.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-100_1505.jpg  
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:28 AM   #1896
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Default Thorp

Wish I had an idea of what this thing is worth, and still wondering what ROAR had against it. Way back, there was a rule in pan, no variable speed...and there was only one car it applied to. I think it was way ahead of its time, and the concept makes more sense to me than multiple gears, plus a 4wd setup in the fashion of how Kyosho did it makes a lot of sense to me as well. Granted, I still have doubts on the piano wire suspension (I think Serpents first car had that as well, mounted in plastic pieces, and it sucked) but the drive part was and is a really good idea, setup is a snap, belt replacement very easy, and a good looking car, all in all.
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European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-100_1523.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-100_1526.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-100_1531.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-100_1529.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-100_1533.jpg  

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Old 08-30-2012, 07:34 AM   #1897
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Works for me, fire when ready. I'm running 35 percent (until you tell me that's too much or something in which case I'll change.) The car handled like a dream, just didn't have the oomph needed to get the job done. Carb was tuned pretty well and my gearing seemed on the money, just no pop out of the motor with the current shim. Beyond that, I have eight plugs left, so give me an idea on shim and I'll try it and hope I figure it out by plug number seven![/QUOTE]

35% Nitro is OK but most have dropped to 25% for extra mileage , for that nitro percantage you'll need around .030" to .032" gap at the squish band for current Nova motors , checked with solder or an indicator making sure to do the correct math compenasating for the piston bowl. FYI lack of punch could also be greatly affected by header length , pipe type , clutch setting and of course carb tuning.
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:37 AM   #1898
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Default The Delta P4

Gee, but the Delta and the RC500 looked a lot alike in the rear end....fuel tank looked similar too, wonder how that happened...lol. As I hear, we all stole the 4wd idea from the Columbia, and Associated ran Delta tanks...and why not, if a thing works. One thing they did do was change the tank later to incorporate an external spring, seems those quick refuellers would sometimes snap the internal spring and I remember Re-Pete Fusco doing badly at the Winternats one year for just that reason. This thing was as durable as they come but I still shudder a little at the thought of rear belt replacement.
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European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-100_1492.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-100_1493.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-100_1494.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-100_1496.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-100_1497.jpg  

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Old 08-30-2012, 07:41 AM   #1899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hitcharide1 View Post
Wish I had an idea of what this thing is worth, and still wondering what ROAR had against it. Way back, there was a rule in pan, no variable speed...and there was only one car it applied to. I think it was way ahead of its time, and the concept makes more sense to me than multiple gears, plus a 4wd setup in the fashion of how Kyosho did it makes a lot of sense to me as well. Granted, I still have doubts on the piano wire suspension (I think Serpents first car had that as well, mounted in plastic pieces, and it sucked) but the drive part was and is a really good idea, setup is a snap, belt replacement very easy, and a good looking car, all in all.
Phil - don't think there was ever any rule that prevented the Thorp car from competing , Dana Smeltzer was probably the last to compete successfully with the car , as motors became more powerful the belt breakage problem grew greater but from a distance it looked to me like the bigger problem was that the clutch / shift system raised the ratio too quickly and pulled the motor off the pipe.
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:45 AM   #1900
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Default Catch all

A few extra pics and details I didn't get in before. That engine on the 180 has a McCoy crank, piston and rod, they look a little heavier than what I have in my '98 Ford Windstar.

MRP did have a pretty good idea with being able to change the deck height for the rear pod, so you could run big, new tires and still get the car down to the ground....but don't forget to change it later when the tires wear down unless you think you'll get good traction riding on the gear.

The Jerobee setup on the older MRP is pretty slick. Didn't leave you too many options on fuel tank placement, but the thing worked. Roy Moody was running this setup long after everyone else had changed to something else, and still doing pretty well with it. Of course, I still like my '53 Kaiser Manhattan too, but newer stuff like air, cruise, and radio are nifty options for those not content with stoneage tech.
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:08 AM   #1901
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Default Hmm

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Phil - don't think there was ever any rule that prevented the Thorp car from competing , Dana Smeltzer was probably the last to compete successfully with the car , as motors became more powerful the belt breakage problem grew greater but from a distance it looked to me like the bigger problem was that the clutch / shift system raised the ratio too quickly and pulled the motor off the pipe.
You may be right, but I can't think of another car that rule would have applied to at the time. I heard from Larry Martin that the belt issue could be a pain and they'd change belts before a main, just to make sure, but I wonder if it had a belt with todays tech if it wouldn't hang in there. I look at it and I'm just amazed at the idea of variable speed...very simple, and no gears to break or chip. I have an old Cushman golf cart that is basically the same drive setup (and wonder if that's where the idea came from,) you never feel the shift because there isn't one to feel, and it keeps the revs up there for max performance. And that thing has an incredibly smooth diff....wow! I look at a lot of the old stuff and am flat out amazed at the ingenuity and engineering involved. Every car had its own points and advantages..and I can't help but wonder where the new crop of inventors and fabricators are here in America for this kind of stuff. I know China has the market on cheap, but I'd buy American in a heartbeat were it an option. That said, I'll shut up before I go off on another rant on how we need to get our collective crap together as a nation....
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:01 AM   #1902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hitcharide1 View Post
I'll start with that and go from there. The way it is now, it's a little like merging onto the highway with a four banger and everyone else has a 360. I think it's a good bullet, just needs some tweakage to it. We also discovered that S&H makes a great engine but a lousy carb (Tom's car) and are addressing that as well. That engine Dave has on his (Vox) is a real screamer and were I less stubborn, I'd have just bought that one off Lon, but since my engine is fairly new as well I want to give it a chance before I write it off and move on.
I watched your car run some and to me it looked like the clutch came in about 15,000 RPM to soon pulling the motor down out of its powerband. I can run my car on 16% and it will still light the tires up. I think your real issue is in the clutch.
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Old 08-30-2012, 04:31 PM   #1903
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Default Well

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I watched your car run some and to me it looked like the clutch came in about 15,000 RPM to soon pulling the motor down out of its powerband. I can run my car on 16% and it will still light the tires up. I think your real issue is in the clutch.
That's depressing to hear. I like the car a lot, but the clutch is crap, the directions are no help, and it's just enough unlike everything else that I can't use anyone elses setup to get it done. Frankly, I'm not sure how it works now, Rick threw me some guidance at Portage which made it to where it's not eating shoes and that was good enough for me. However, now that you've said that, I'll try tweaking it a little as well and see if it doesn't make an improvement. I had set Dave's clutch the same way and his car screamed, but he had a lot more engine than I do, I just assumed it was all in the shimmage....but I'll play with both and see where it gets me. After the end of this year, I plan to get Serpent clutches and start over.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:25 PM   #1904
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Just when I think I have something figured out on clutches, I DON'T!!! The real issue is there is no set in stone formula for setting up a clutch. Its just going to take time to learn it and figure out what makes it work the best.
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Old 08-31-2012, 03:52 PM   #1905
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Just when I think I have something figured out on clutches, I DON'T!!! The real issue is there is no set in stone formula for setting up a clutch. Its just going to take time to learn it and figure out what makes it work the best.
at the last club race we added some extra days, being middle aged i forgot the dates. please remind me
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