EXTREME RC MODIFICATION - Findings and Discussions
04-21-2004, 09:58 PM
#91
Originally posted by orangbaligila
here comes,... the 24/7 racer among all of us,...
man,... I just don't get it,... if you wanna race don't go to a forum,.. can't race in it
we just want to share what we found along our path,...
if any part of my 2 cts are hurting your feelings,... sue me,...
btw,.. any of you guys manufacture your own rc stuff?! I'm currently making metal tuned pipes and manifold for specific engines and track conditions, my own metal ring gear for FW05R, and metal 0.8 pinions too cuz it's quite hard to find them around,.. so I make them instead, hehehe...
here comes,... the 24/7 racer among all of us,...
man,... I just don't get it,... if you wanna race don't go to a forum,.. can't race in it
we just want to share what we found along our path,... if any part of my 2 cts are hurting your feelings,... sue me,...
btw,.. any of you guys manufacture your own rc stuff?! I'm currently making metal tuned pipes and manifold for specific engines and track conditions, my own metal ring gear for FW05R, and metal 0.8 pinions too cuz it's quite hard to find them around,.. so I make them instead, hehehe...
BTW, I even don't know how to drive RC cars, so racing isn't for me.
BTW, I know how the engine is working, how to design it ( no copying),I build my own engines and my son don't use anything else but mine engine ( Palmaris PS12).
I have "slightly" clue about piston material metalurgy, cranckcase metalurgy, sleeves and cylinder design and manufacturing technology. Timings, vacuum level, pressure gain and other crap just start learning.
No hard feelings.
04-22-2004, 08:47 AM
#92
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
Hey, no hard feelings. i am not going to sue you
BTW, I even don't know how to drive RC cars, so racing isn't for me.
BTW, I know how the engine is working, how to design it ( no copying),I build my own engines and my son don't use anything else but mine engine ( Palmaris PS12).
I have "slightly" clue about piston material metalurgy, cranckcase metalurgy, sleeves and cylinder design and manufacturing technology. Timings, vacuum level, pressure gain and other crap just start learning.
No hard feelings.
Hey, no hard feelings. i am not going to sue you
BTW, I even don't know how to drive RC cars, so racing isn't for me.
BTW, I know how the engine is working, how to design it ( no copying),I build my own engines and my son don't use anything else but mine engine ( Palmaris PS12).
I have "slightly" clue about piston material metalurgy, cranckcase metalurgy, sleeves and cylinder design and manufacturing technology. Timings, vacuum level, pressure gain and other crap just start learning.
No hard feelings.
maybe you can help me on which material are good for the gear sets I'm making,... the current versions are real though, but heavy and gets hot real quick,... I'm no expert in materials etc,... but creative enough to get the "insane" look around the quick-guys over here,...
I don't drive very well too,... I tend to spend most of my time fiddling with others' cars, hehe... given a good day,... I can drive circles around the fastest guy of the day,... but if the wind is not blowing right,.. I'll stick around the pit area the whole day and "play around"...
btw, what's your engine based on?! aight,.. I saw that (no copy) thing,... but the core design can't be that far off though, hehe... would like to try one,... experimented with some RTR engines only,... got no guts (nor a faintless heart) yet to modify top dogs engines,... with RTRs it could go blitz fast, but the reliability would be another issue, hehehe...
ps: don't be too modest,...
04-22-2004, 11:30 PM
#93
Originally posted by orangbaligila
maybe you can help me on which material are good for the gear sets I'm making,... the current versions are real though, but heavy and gets hot real quick,...
btw, what's your engine based on?! aight,.. I saw that (no copy) thing,... but the core design can't be that far off though, hehe... would like to try one,...
maybe you can help me on which material are good for the gear sets I'm making,... the current versions are real though, but heavy and gets hot real quick,...
btw, what's your engine based on?! aight,.. I saw that (no copy) thing,... but the core design can't be that far off though, hehe... would like to try one,...
As per my motor design, well, if you have lawn mover in you yard, take the hood off and you will see where I took an idea.
No there is no engine models in Rc Nitro similar to mine, but as I mentioed in Palmaris thread, this design has been massaged for while already in airmodeling, but much bigger sizes, which basecaly change whole picture in manufacturing technology. It is much easier to cast cyclinder n sizes for engine 40+ then 12-15. It is relted to big ammount of pinholes in Al alloy and makes chrome plating process very hard.
BW, Palmaris has no based on, all parts has own sizes and no one part from any existing engines will fit there ( may be screws only).
04-23-2004, 01:56 PM
#94
Big wing!!!
Well If I wasn't so blind it wouldn't have to be so big and pink. LOL just kidding but the funny thing is that wing worked quite well for a while then half way threw the main the wind started kicken up and it was a handfull to drive. I was in a good race for first but came up a little short that day.. Heres a picture of my latest body
04-23-2004, 09:15 PM
#95
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Re: Big wing!!!
Originally posted by HELLION
Well If I wasn't so blind it wouldn't have to be so big and pink. LOL just kidding but the funny thing is that wing worked quite well for a while then half way threw the main the wind started kicken up and it was a handfull to drive. I was in a good race for first but came up a little short that day.. Heres a picture of my latest body
Well If I wasn't so blind it wouldn't have to be so big and pink. LOL just kidding but the funny thing is that wing worked quite well for a while then half way threw the main the wind started kicken up and it was a handfull to drive. I was in a good race for first but came up a little short that day.. Heres a picture of my latest body
big wing is ur concept now eh? and because of the big wing.... a little strong wind affected the performance.... is that u mean by ur post? and because of the bigger wing it also affected the car... too twitchy?
wow.... i hope u can sove that issues.... all the best hellion!
mop
04-24-2004, 12:39 AM
#96
no worries!
I was just screwing around with diffrent wings the one in the pic worked cause the car was a little loose but that wing is a little over kill and ROAR would prolly say ooooo no you don't
04-24-2004, 01:26 AM
#97
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Re: no worries!
Originally posted by HELLION
I was just screwing around with diffrent wings the one in the pic worked cause the car was a little loose but that wing is a little over kill and ROAR would prolly say ooooo no you don't
I was just screwing around with diffrent wings the one in the pic worked cause the car was a little loose but that wing is a little over kill and ROAR would prolly say ooooo no you don't
mop
04-25-2004, 04:43 AM
#98
Re: Re: no worries!
Originally posted by mop_iko
the wing a little overkill and not gonna allowed by ROAR? what is ROAR regualtion on wings? why they dont allowed things that will make your car performed better?
mop
the wing a little overkill and not gonna allowed by ROAR? what is ROAR regualtion on wings? why they dont allowed things that will make your car performed better?
mop
04-25-2004, 07:11 AM
#99
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myth about graphite in RC....
just wanna share this.
i took this from here
Graphite Myths
by by Steve Husting
Graphite parts are not stronger than their stock plastic composite versions. This fact surprises many of our customers. This article will clear up two long-standing myths about graphite so you¡¯ll purchase your parts wisely.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Graphite Myth #1
Stronger and more impact-resistant than plastic
A beginning racer frequently breaks parts left and right as the boards jump in front of his car. He observes the pros successfully navigating the track countless times without breaking anything. He makes earnest inquiries and discovers the Holy Grail of Carbon Fiber. Rushing to the store, he buys every carbon fiber part his budget allows. Just as quickly, they all break. What the hey? Aren't carbon parts supposed to be stronger? Isn¡¯t that why the better racers never break anything?
Actually, stock plastic versions are more impact-resistant. Plastic parts are more flexible than carbon, allowing more "give" in a crash. Experienced racers prize carbon parts, not for their strength in a crash, but for their "responsiveness." This term refers to carbon's rigidity. Without the minute delay of flexing, rigid interconnected parts will respond to the driver's control immediately.
As an example, a balloon is more flexible while an egg is more rigid. What happens when you throw both against a wall? If you answered, "One breaks while the other doesn¡¯t," get yourself a ribbon.
Pro: Rigid and more responsive than stock parts.
Con: Less impact-resistant than stock parts.
Recommendation: If you are starting out in R/C and find yourself breaking parts often, it is better to stick with the more flexible plastic versions until the boards and your car lose their attraction. When you gain finer control over the car and desire finer tuning changes, you'll better appreciate the rigidity of graphite parts--and the superior skill of terrific drivers.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Graphite Myth #2
Graphite Plus Aluminum Equals Better
Experienced racers get carbon parts to lighten their electric and nitro cars and trucks. Lighter is always better. Less weight on the car means less stress on the motor and less draw on the batteries, resulting in more "fun" time, and less wear and tear on the electronics. Good drivers switching to lighter versions of the stock parts¡ªmeaning carbon or graphite¡ªcan gain a competitive advantage of speed and run time over those who don¡¯t.
Converting to all-carbon and graphite parts will save one to two ounces, depending on the kit. Therefore, switching only suspension arms, for instance, will not result in any appreciable gains. For maximum effect, you have to buy the whole enchilada.
Unfortunately, when new racers switch to carbon parts, they find themselves breaking parts repeatedly. So they exchange other stock parts for aluminum ones¡ªand wipe out any weight gains they made. Aluminum parts are stronger, but also significantly heavier than their stock or carbon counterparts. They are a no-no when weight savings is the goal.
If lighter weight is your goal, don¡¯t mix carbon and aluminum.
New carbon parts will not translate into faster speed when driving skills are lacking. You¡¯ll save money and time by more practice than by more carbon parts. Getting carbon is far from a quick fix when purchased as a substitute for poor driving.
A lighter vehicle will not come cheaply. Fortunately, you can upgrade piece by piece as your old parts wear or break, and as your driving proficiency improves. Luckily, some companies, like Associated, create deluxe kit versions (such as our Factory Team kits) with all carbon and graphite parts included, at prices frequently saving you tons of money. Upgrade bags containing complete replacement graphite and carbon parts are also available.
Pro: Easiest route to lighten your car is to simply substitute graphite parts.
Cons:
a. Graphite versions are more expensive than stock parts.
b. Racers must change all parts to their lighter counterpart for only a small weight advantage.
c. Car is less forgiving on impact.
Recommendation: If you want more speed and run time, lighter is better, and carbon parts are lighter than stock plastic versions. If you are a novice, upgrade as your skills improve, for carbon is a poor substitute for good driving practice. Resist the cool look of heavy aluminum parts if lighter is your goal.
mop
i took this from here
Graphite Myths
by by Steve Husting
Graphite parts are not stronger than their stock plastic composite versions. This fact surprises many of our customers. This article will clear up two long-standing myths about graphite so you¡¯ll purchase your parts wisely.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Graphite Myth #1
Stronger and more impact-resistant than plastic
A beginning racer frequently breaks parts left and right as the boards jump in front of his car. He observes the pros successfully navigating the track countless times without breaking anything. He makes earnest inquiries and discovers the Holy Grail of Carbon Fiber. Rushing to the store, he buys every carbon fiber part his budget allows. Just as quickly, they all break. What the hey? Aren't carbon parts supposed to be stronger? Isn¡¯t that why the better racers never break anything?
Actually, stock plastic versions are more impact-resistant. Plastic parts are more flexible than carbon, allowing more "give" in a crash. Experienced racers prize carbon parts, not for their strength in a crash, but for their "responsiveness." This term refers to carbon's rigidity. Without the minute delay of flexing, rigid interconnected parts will respond to the driver's control immediately.
As an example, a balloon is more flexible while an egg is more rigid. What happens when you throw both against a wall? If you answered, "One breaks while the other doesn¡¯t," get yourself a ribbon.
Pro: Rigid and more responsive than stock parts.
Con: Less impact-resistant than stock parts.
Recommendation: If you are starting out in R/C and find yourself breaking parts often, it is better to stick with the more flexible plastic versions until the boards and your car lose their attraction. When you gain finer control over the car and desire finer tuning changes, you'll better appreciate the rigidity of graphite parts--and the superior skill of terrific drivers.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Graphite Myth #2
Graphite Plus Aluminum Equals Better
Experienced racers get carbon parts to lighten their electric and nitro cars and trucks. Lighter is always better. Less weight on the car means less stress on the motor and less draw on the batteries, resulting in more "fun" time, and less wear and tear on the electronics. Good drivers switching to lighter versions of the stock parts¡ªmeaning carbon or graphite¡ªcan gain a competitive advantage of speed and run time over those who don¡¯t.
Converting to all-carbon and graphite parts will save one to two ounces, depending on the kit. Therefore, switching only suspension arms, for instance, will not result in any appreciable gains. For maximum effect, you have to buy the whole enchilada.
Unfortunately, when new racers switch to carbon parts, they find themselves breaking parts repeatedly. So they exchange other stock parts for aluminum ones¡ªand wipe out any weight gains they made. Aluminum parts are stronger, but also significantly heavier than their stock or carbon counterparts. They are a no-no when weight savings is the goal.
If lighter weight is your goal, don¡¯t mix carbon and aluminum.
New carbon parts will not translate into faster speed when driving skills are lacking. You¡¯ll save money and time by more practice than by more carbon parts. Getting carbon is far from a quick fix when purchased as a substitute for poor driving.
A lighter vehicle will not come cheaply. Fortunately, you can upgrade piece by piece as your old parts wear or break, and as your driving proficiency improves. Luckily, some companies, like Associated, create deluxe kit versions (such as our Factory Team kits) with all carbon and graphite parts included, at prices frequently saving you tons of money. Upgrade bags containing complete replacement graphite and carbon parts are also available.
Pro: Easiest route to lighten your car is to simply substitute graphite parts.
Cons:
a. Graphite versions are more expensive than stock parts.
b. Racers must change all parts to their lighter counterpart for only a small weight advantage.
c. Car is less forgiving on impact.
Recommendation: If you want more speed and run time, lighter is better, and carbon parts are lighter than stock plastic versions. If you are a novice, upgrade as your skills improve, for carbon is a poor substitute for good driving practice. Resist the cool look of heavy aluminum parts if lighter is your goal.
mop
04-26-2004, 01:51 PM
#100
Tech Regular
I have also heard that using to much carbon fiber on your car can interfere with radio signal. Not sure if its true.
Mike
Mike
04-26-2004, 02:23 PM
#101
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Originally posted by budlightnmyhand
I have also heard that using to much carbon fiber on your car can interfere with radio signal. Not sure if its true.
Mike
I have also heard that using to much carbon fiber on your car can interfere with radio signal. Not sure if its true.
Mike
if your receiver cable touched the carbon parts then it will interfere with your reception... so it is adviceable to put some tubing where your antenna meets the carbon parts.
as explained here
ok i put it here:
Graphite glitch-proofing
A graphite chassis is a huge performance booster, but it can also cause serious radio-glitching problems if your antenna wire comes in contact with the graphite. To prevent this from happening, use a piece of heat-shrink tubing to further insulate the antenna where it touches the graphite. Just cut the correct length needed for your application, and slide it onto the antenna.
Tom Casey
Phoenix, AZ
mop
04-28-2004, 11:35 PM
#102
Carbon Parts
Hey Mop Good Site on advise
04-29-2004, 06:22 AM
#103
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this is what we are here for.
Originally posted by Confused R/C
Hey Mop Good Site on advise
Hey Mop Good Site on advise
actually.... until now... i still cant find HOW TO DO THE MODIFICATION in one of the pictures on Page 1 that i posted in this thread... the SKYLINE with the front mounted intercooler...
http://www.xpphotoalbum.com/data/630...ne-03.jpg?3363
anybody knows what is the car's brand ? KYOSHO or YOKOMO and where to find the intercooler or is it DIY? how to buy that thing!
mop
04-29-2004, 10:17 AM
#104
Thats an HPI RS4. I remember seeing that on the old HPI forum. It was supposed to be a turbo with intercooler and was a custom job. Looks like a concourse car to me. Wouldn't want to hit anything with the intercooler in the front like that.
04-29-2004, 11:06 AM
#105
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Originally posted by Rapid Roy
Thats an HPI RS4. I remember seeing that on the old HPI forum. It was supposed to be a turbo with intercooler and was a custom job. Looks like a concourse car to me. Wouldn't want to hit anything with the intercooler in the front like that.
Thats an HPI RS4. I remember seeing that on the old HPI forum. It was supposed to be a turbo with intercooler and was a custom job. Looks like a concourse car to me. Wouldn't want to hit anything with the intercooler in the front like that.
yeah... after you mentioned HPI RS4... and i take another look on it again.. and walla!!!! it is really HPI RS4! wow.... i have RS4.. but rtr... i wonder where to get those custom job turbo! whoaaaaaaaaaa... in my dream!
mop