engine modifying
06-28-2004, 10:20 AM
#61
Any thoughts on the above?
06-29-2004, 04:23 PM
#62
It's ok!
Gonzo I think you will be fine as long as you see the smoke and if it misses ( lean burn ) then let it cool down and fatten it up a little
Some of my outlaws do the same thing. What probley happend is now your engine has a stronger power stroke it's going to bring in a little more heat and the reason it's not flaming out is Two things 1 u hit the sweet spot on the sleeve and It's expanding with the piston better and 2 is with the mod. your engine is better at releasing the bad gas and bringing in a better A/F mix. You might consider doing some crank and carb work! Keep checking your glow plug
Some of my outlaws do the same thing. What probley happend is now your engine has a stronger power stroke it's going to bring in a little more heat and the reason it's not flaming out is Two things 1 u hit the sweet spot on the sleeve and It's expanding with the piston better and 2 is with the mod. your engine is better at releasing the bad gas and bringing in a better A/F mix. You might consider doing some crank and carb work! Keep checking your glow plug
06-29-2004, 04:38 PM
#63
sweet..thanks for the reply. Any other thoughts from you other engine gurus?
06-29-2004, 05:10 PM
#64
Carb work like boring it out would bring in more fuel, thus more cooling/power to the crankcase correct? THis is an OLD crank style and I heard the new ones are much more open. It doesn't even have the groove cut on the counter weight. Where can I find info on crank modifications? I understand how rotating mass works, and I guess in theory, you want that counterweight as light as you can get it, while still maintaining the counterweight effect. But i haven't been able to find why the teardrop shape is used when modifying it. Just random thoughts I'm having. Any more suggestions on where i can find info? ANy other thougts on my previous post? thanks
06-29-2004, 08:15 PM
#65
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Originally posted by gonzoY5
Carb work like boring it out would bring in more fuel, thus more cooling/power to the crankcase correct? THis is an OLD crank style and I heard the new ones are much more open. It doesn't even have the groove cut on the counter weight. Where can I find info on crank modifications? I understand how rotating mass works, and I guess in theory, you want that counterweight as light as you can get it, while still maintaining the counterweight effect. But i haven't been able to find why the teardrop shape is used when modifying it. Just random thoughts I'm having. Any more suggestions on where i can find info? ANy other thougts on my previous post? thanks
Carb work like boring it out would bring in more fuel, thus more cooling/power to the crankcase correct? THis is an OLD crank style and I heard the new ones are much more open. It doesn't even have the groove cut on the counter weight. Where can I find info on crank modifications? I understand how rotating mass works, and I guess in theory, you want that counterweight as light as you can get it, while still maintaining the counterweight effect. But i haven't been able to find why the teardrop shape is used when modifying it. Just random thoughts I'm having. Any more suggestions on where i can find info? ANy other thougts on my previous post? thanks
GONZO... like HELLION said... you have got the SWEET SPOT in your MOD...
please share your MOD by taking pictures... show us so we know HOW FAR we can do the MOD on the SLEEVE. We want to see the size of the MOD you have done. so that we also will get the same SWEET SPOT. Please do tell the engine spec and NITRO % that you used.
thanks!
mop
07-01-2004, 10:07 PM
#66
Dyno part 1
Guys I'm so sorry I just havent had time to post this dyno. This isn't my design but it's easier to use then mine and cheap to build. The resistors are what load the engine. you have to figure out a way to hook up your engine to the electric motor I use pullys and a belt. A simple way to do all of this is to get a scrap piece of alum. and some motor mounts and bolt them to your starter box I have one for doing just engines and one for doing cars I will go into much more detail on both when I get cought up with making my bodies but this should give you a good start
07-02-2004, 04:06 PM
#69
Originally posted by macnkitty2002
Hey, what happened to the thread I was responding to?!?!
Hey, what happened to the thread I was responding to?!?!
07-02-2004, 11:02 PM
#71
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Re: Dyno part 1
Originally posted by HELLION
Guys I'm so sorry I just havent had time to post this dyno. This isn't my design but it's easier to use then mine and cheap to build. The resistors are what load the engine. you have to figure out a way to hook up your engine to the electric motor I use pullys and a belt. A simple way to do all of this is to get a scrap piece of alum. and some motor mounts and bolt them to your starter box I have one for doing just engines and one for doing cars I will go into much more detail on both when I get cought up with making my bodies but this should give you a good start
Guys I'm so sorry I just havent had time to post this dyno. This isn't my design but it's easier to use then mine and cheap to build. The resistors are what load the engine. you have to figure out a way to hook up your engine to the electric motor I use pullys and a belt. A simple way to do all of this is to get a scrap piece of alum. and some motor mounts and bolt them to your starter box I have one for doing just engines and one for doing cars I will go into much more detail on both when I get cought up with making my bodies but this should give you a good start
can u give at least some brand names and also the specification? i dont know whether if your use different motor will give you different reading to your DYNO test. am i correct? i guess you need to use HEAVY DUTY electric motor that can withstand HIGH RPM. that is why i need the specification so that i wont buy a WRONG motor. or can i use my STARTER BOX MOTOR?
and thanks for the initial image of the DYNO machine. hope to see your version of it!!!
mop
07-02-2004, 11:06 PM
#72
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Originally posted by macnkitty2002
We all want to go faster.
We all want to go faster.
and try our THEORY to realised in REALITY.
YOU WILL HAVE A GREAT FEELING IF YOUR WORK DOES GIVE MORE POWER TO YOUR ENGINE.
mop
07-03-2004, 06:27 AM
#73
Re: Dyno part 1
Originally posted by HELLION
Guys I'm so sorry I just havent had time to post this dyno. This isn't my design but it's easier to use then mine and cheap to build. The resistors are what load the engine. you have to figure out a way to hook up your engine to the electric motor I use pullys and a belt. A simple way to do all of this is to get a scrap piece of alum. and some motor mounts and bolt them to your starter box I have one for doing just engines and one for doing cars I will go into much more detail on both when I get cought up with making my bodies but this should give you a good start
Guys I'm so sorry I just havent had time to post this dyno. This isn't my design but it's easier to use then mine and cheap to build. The resistors are what load the engine. you have to figure out a way to hook up your engine to the electric motor I use pullys and a belt. A simple way to do all of this is to get a scrap piece of alum. and some motor mounts and bolt them to your starter box I have one for doing just engines and one for doing cars I will go into much more detail on both when I get cought up with making my bodies but this should give you a good start
07-08-2004, 01:37 AM
#74
NOOOO\
LOL Don't use your starter box motor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and you dont have to spend a lot for a motor ! Steal one out of a touring car
Just kidding but they work great. and don't worrie about high RPMs .If it's to high then simpley hit the switch and it will load it slowing it down! This is a very basic system what you are doing is making the electric motor turn with your gas engine. The electric motor is hooked up to a volt meter and the faster it spins the more volts you will see on the meter and that is your guide. The higher the voltage reading the more power your engine is putting out! If your readings are to low then put a smaller pully on the elec. motor.Lets say you are putting out 1.5 volts then after the mods. you should see more voltage. A friend gave me a old engine and I'm trying some new modifications to the crank so I'm going to break it in then dyno it to see if it worked and I will take pictures so you can see it.
Just kidding but they work great. and don't worrie about high RPMs .If it's to high then simpley hit the switch and it will load it slowing it down! This is a very basic system what you are doing is making the electric motor turn with your gas engine. The electric motor is hooked up to a volt meter and the faster it spins the more volts you will see on the meter and that is your guide. The higher the voltage reading the more power your engine is putting out! If your readings are to low then put a smaller pully on the elec. motor.Lets say you are putting out 1.5 volts then after the mods. you should see more voltage. A friend gave me a old engine and I'm trying some new modifications to the crank so I'm going to break it in then dyno it to see if it worked and I will take pictures so you can see it.
07-08-2004, 09:15 AM
#75
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which motor again?
Originally posted by HELLION
LOL Don't use your starter box motor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and you dont have to spend a lot for a motor ! Steal one out of a touring car Just kidding but they work great.
LOL Don't use your starter box motor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and you dont have to spend a lot for a motor ! Steal one out of a touring car
Just kidding but they work great.
1/10th EP car's motor?
or the small kid's RC TOY car motor?
i am confused!!!
cant wait to see the pic.
mop