3LikesTeam Magic G4RS 2009
07-23-2009, 01:55 AM
#391
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
On the other hand I have a tip for those of you that have lost an outdrive from your spools.
Please see the setscrews in the spool and notice that I ground the edges so they follow the profile of the spool body.
The tips of the setscrews that hold the outdrives in place were cut from 6mm long setscrews. You just shave off a bit at the tip to allow the hex in the other end to stick out barely. Then just grind a bit off the rim and have your bearings hold the setscrews tightly in place.
If you do this with all your 4 setscrews then you will never loose one again...
Please see the setscrews in the spool and notice that I ground the edges so they follow the profile of the spool body.
The tips of the setscrews that hold the outdrives in place were cut from 6mm long setscrews. You just shave off a bit at the tip to allow the hex in the other end to stick out barely. Then just grind a bit off the rim and have your bearings hold the setscrews tightly in place.
If you do this with all your 4 setscrews then you will never loose one again...
07-23-2009, 02:08 AM
#392
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
One last item from me tonight.
If you feel like Impalabob and myself that the stock clutch is not strong enough, then just screw in a 3X3mm setscrew at the far hole of each flyweight.
This will induce more centrifugal force when the clutch is revolving and you will get all the kick you need from your box stock clutch.
I got to this conclusion because I was either confronted by early engage or bad slip when adjusting my clutch today and could not get to a comfortable point in-between.
It was kind of frustrating to start with, but with the added weight I got to a point that I can adjust the clutch at will and get all the desirable force from it.
The spring is longer than previous G4´s. That makes it difficult to compress if using a large gap, like .6mm or more. The problem I had is that at .5mm or less the clutch engaged too early and gave me a poor kick-off.
I feel that after the mod my clutch engages just fine and allows setting at large gaps for high-rev engagement with no slip...
If you feel like Impalabob and myself that the stock clutch is not strong enough, then just screw in a 3X3mm setscrew at the far hole of each flyweight.
This will induce more centrifugal force when the clutch is revolving and you will get all the kick you need from your box stock clutch.
I got to this conclusion because I was either confronted by early engage or bad slip when adjusting my clutch today and could not get to a comfortable point in-between.
It was kind of frustrating to start with, but with the added weight I got to a point that I can adjust the clutch at will and get all the desirable force from it.
The spring is longer than previous G4´s. That makes it difficult to compress if using a large gap, like .6mm or more. The problem I had is that at .5mm or less the clutch engaged too early and gave me a poor kick-off.
I feel that after the mod my clutch engages just fine and allows setting at large gaps for high-rev engagement with no slip...
07-23-2009, 03:09 AM
#393
Hi guys,
I am looking for a piece of advise here...
Please take a look at the vertical lines on the diff cover...
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/2204/hpim0641h.jpg
Those are cracks that have not torn apart yet, but I am afraid they can.
Back when I used my RRR I had to tighten up my diffs at a point that is very close to what you see in the picture, warpage of the cover included. It was the only way to stop leaking diff silicon.
But with the G4RS 09, that seemed to be too much. Now I do not know how to stop my leak problem, and I need to use new parts if it ends up being I do not have to tighten up so far.
Please tell me how you have used yours, as I have not seen one negative comment or bad experience with your diffs...
I am looking for a piece of advise here...
Please take a look at the vertical lines on the diff cover...
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/2204/hpim0641h.jpg
Those are cracks that have not torn apart yet, but I am afraid they can.
Back when I used my RRR I had to tighten up my diffs at a point that is very close to what you see in the picture, warpage of the cover included. It was the only way to stop leaking diff silicon.
But with the G4RS 09, that seemed to be too much. Now I do not know how to stop my leak problem, and I need to use new parts if it ends up being I do not have to tighten up so far.
Please tell me how you have used yours, as I have not seen one negative comment or bad experience with your diffs...
07-23-2009, 03:55 AM
#394
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
I know in the nt1 diffs it's a good idea to put a bead of loctite gasket maker between the diff halves because they only seal with a very thin o ring and only fill the oil up so it only just covers the small spider gears and then they don't leak. Do the new diffs seal the same way as the older type with a big gasket?
I loved the big gasket that used to come with the diffs but it is gone now.
Thanks for the tip! It sounds tricky but I may have to give it a try...
07-23-2009, 05:36 AM
#395
One last item from me tonight.
If you feel like Impalabob and myself that the stock clutch is not strong enough, then just screw in a 3X3mm setscrew at the far hole of each flyweight.
This will induce more centrifugal force when the clutch is revolving and you will get all the kick you need from your box stock clutch.
I got to this conclusion because I was either confronted by early engage or bad slip when adjusting my clutch today and could not get to a comfortable point in-between.
It was kind of frustrating to start with, but with the added weight I got to a point that I can adjust the clutch at will and get all the desirable force from it.
The spring is longer than previous G4´s. That makes it difficult to compress if using a large gap, like .6mm or more. The problem I had is that at .5mm or less the clutch engaged too early and gave me a poor kick-off.
I feel that after the mod my clutch engages just fine and allows setting at large gaps for high-rev engagement with no slip...
If you feel like Impalabob and myself that the stock clutch is not strong enough, then just screw in a 3X3mm setscrew at the far hole of each flyweight.
This will induce more centrifugal force when the clutch is revolving and you will get all the kick you need from your box stock clutch.
I got to this conclusion because I was either confronted by early engage or bad slip when adjusting my clutch today and could not get to a comfortable point in-between.
It was kind of frustrating to start with, but with the added weight I got to a point that I can adjust the clutch at will and get all the desirable force from it.
The spring is longer than previous G4´s. That makes it difficult to compress if using a large gap, like .6mm or more. The problem I had is that at .5mm or less the clutch engaged too early and gave me a poor kick-off.
I feel that after the mod my clutch engages just fine and allows setting at large gaps for high-rev engagement with no slip...
...Ari
07-23-2009, 05:46 AM
#396
I know in the nt1 diffs it's a good idea to put a bead of loctite gasket maker between the diff halves because they only seal with a very thin o ring and only fill the oil up so it only just covers the small spider gears and then they don't leak. Do the new diffs seal the same way as the older type with a big gasket?
Hi guys,
I am looking for a piece of advise here...
Please take a look at the vertical lines on the diff cover...
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/2204/hpim0641h.jpg
Those are cracks that have not torn apart yet, but I am afraid they can.
Back when I used my RRR I had to tighten up my diffs at a point that is very close to what you see in the picture, warpage of the cover included. It was the only way to stop leaking diff silicon.
But with the G4RS 09, that seemed to be too much. Now I do not know how to stop my leak problem, and I need to use new parts if it ends up being I do not have to tighten up so far.
Please tell me how you have used yours, as I have not seen one negative comment or bad experience with your diffs...
I am looking for a piece of advise here...
Please take a look at the vertical lines on the diff cover...
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/2204/hpim0641h.jpg
Those are cracks that have not torn apart yet, but I am afraid they can.
Back when I used my RRR I had to tighten up my diffs at a point that is very close to what you see in the picture, warpage of the cover included. It was the only way to stop leaking diff silicon.
But with the G4RS 09, that seemed to be too much. Now I do not know how to stop my leak problem, and I need to use new parts if it ends up being I do not have to tighten up so far.
Please tell me how you have used yours, as I have not seen one negative comment or bad experience with your diffs...
Check your screws. I ended up putting the 2.5mm screws in with the cracked housing, no issues what so ever (one of the holes were stripped too). I will replace it soon just in case.
...Ari
07-23-2009, 07:19 AM
#399
Registered User
How's the car going? Its worth buying? The cracked diff case common?
The car is good.
07-23-2009, 12:34 PM
#403
"After being somewhat off the pace, defending champion Dario Balestri
(15.950) has got it together topping the last controlled practice here in Gubbio. The Italian had struggled in the opening four sessions but reverting back to his set-up from yesterday he was able to take his Novarossi powered Team Magic G4RS 2009 around the track in a sub lap record time.
Running 37 shore tyres all round, Balestri said the car was now very good and he can look forward to tomorrow’s qualifiers....... "
