3LikesTeam Magic G4RS 2009
07-21-2009, 10:53 PM
#379
Tech Adept
just got me an 09!, initial thoughts and Q's
Hi all,
Have an 09 in my hot little hands (thanks bundy!)
Initial thoughts -
Well made plastics, no bling, all business!
Things I like -
Compared to my other two cars (both G4S), i like the strength of the power transmitting components, the larger diameter motor clutch, larger dia 2 speed clutch shoes, the larger dia spurs, all should mean less wear and tear with the higher HP motors.
Weight savings -
Like the narrow chassis, smaller side and top bulkheads, smaller narrower diffs etc.
Lots of roll centre adjustment!
Not so keen on -
Injection molded hexes, I clocked mine over in the stubs by hand inside the hubs and sure enough i can visibly see the runout, I dont care so much about the material of construction but hexes should be machined end of story. 0.1mm runout at the hex will be like 1.0mm runout at the tread face!
Bearings, these look to be metal shielded but mine have more resistance to rolling than I'd like (packing grease?), should I wash out in solvent and reoil with low viscosity oil?
Other than that any assembly tips? I oiled my 2 speed oneway (was bone dry) and set the shift point higher so the 1.5mm dimension is now approx 0.5mm, anything else i should do?
Cheers and sorry for all the Q'S.
Have an 09 in my hot little hands (thanks bundy!)
Initial thoughts -
Well made plastics, no bling, all business!
Things I like -
Compared to my other two cars (both G4S), i like the strength of the power transmitting components, the larger diameter motor clutch, larger dia 2 speed clutch shoes, the larger dia spurs, all should mean less wear and tear with the higher HP motors.
Weight savings -
Like the narrow chassis, smaller side and top bulkheads, smaller narrower diffs etc.
Lots of roll centre adjustment!
Not so keen on -
Injection molded hexes, I clocked mine over in the stubs by hand inside the hubs and sure enough i can visibly see the runout, I dont care so much about the material of construction but hexes should be machined end of story. 0.1mm runout at the hex will be like 1.0mm runout at the tread face!
Bearings, these look to be metal shielded but mine have more resistance to rolling than I'd like (packing grease?), should I wash out in solvent and reoil with low viscosity oil?
Other than that any assembly tips? I oiled my 2 speed oneway (was bone dry) and set the shift point higher so the 1.5mm dimension is now approx 0.5mm, anything else i should do?
Cheers and sorry for all the Q'S.
07-21-2009, 11:07 PM
#380
07-22-2009, 12:34 AM
#382
I weigh my car, and it is 1704 grams including everything ( tyres, bodyshell ...)
07-22-2009, 02:22 AM
#383
Hi all,
Have an 09 in my hot little hands (thanks bundy!)
Initial thoughts -
Well made plastics, no bling, all business!
Things I like -
Compared to my other two cars (both G4S), i like the strength of the power transmitting components, the larger diameter motor clutch, larger dia 2 speed clutch shoes, the larger dia spurs, all should mean less wear and tear with the higher HP motors.
Weight savings -
Like the narrow chassis, smaller side and top bulkheads, smaller narrower diffs etc.
Lots of roll centre adjustment!
Not so keen on -
Injection molded hexes, I clocked mine over in the stubs by hand inside the hubs and sure enough i can visibly see the runout, I dont care so much about the material of construction but hexes should be machined end of story. 0.1mm runout at the hex will be like 1.0mm runout at the tread face!
Bearings, these look to be metal shielded but mine have more resistance to rolling than I'd like (packing grease?), should I wash out in solvent and reoil with low viscosity oil?
Other than that any assembly tips? I oiled my 2 speed oneway (was bone dry) and set the shift point higher so the 1.5mm dimension is now approx 0.5mm, anything else i should do?
Cheers and sorry for all the Q'S.
Have an 09 in my hot little hands (thanks bundy!)
Initial thoughts -
Well made plastics, no bling, all business!
Things I like -
Compared to my other two cars (both G4S), i like the strength of the power transmitting components, the larger diameter motor clutch, larger dia 2 speed clutch shoes, the larger dia spurs, all should mean less wear and tear with the higher HP motors.
Weight savings -
Like the narrow chassis, smaller side and top bulkheads, smaller narrower diffs etc.
Lots of roll centre adjustment!
Not so keen on -
Injection molded hexes, I clocked mine over in the stubs by hand inside the hubs and sure enough i can visibly see the runout, I dont care so much about the material of construction but hexes should be machined end of story. 0.1mm runout at the hex will be like 1.0mm runout at the tread face!
Bearings, these look to be metal shielded but mine have more resistance to rolling than I'd like (packing grease?), should I wash out in solvent and reoil with low viscosity oil?
Other than that any assembly tips? I oiled my 2 speed oneway (was bone dry) and set the shift point higher so the 1.5mm dimension is now approx 0.5mm, anything else i should do?
Cheers and sorry for all the Q'S.
Enjoy it... One question though, did you finish building it already???
BB
07-22-2009, 04:35 AM
#384
weight
Imagen adding a lipo to the car with Twister prolights.
07-22-2009, 07:10 AM
#385
Tech Adept
07-22-2009, 01:57 PM
#386
07-22-2009, 02:08 PM
#387
Ran the G4RS on the weekend. Positive thoughts straigh up. Looking to impove setup and my driving...
Car held out great all day 3 5min quals and a 20 Main no issues. Oiled my 2 speed oneway with some light bearing oil and had zero issues, didnt even need to re oil it.
Setup as follows:
Front
track width- 198mm
solid axle
toe -1
camber L&R -2
ride height -5mm
droop- 3.5 mm
caster - All the way back
offset-+0.0
Tire 40 jaco
Dia- 59mm
Shock oil - 500 Mugen
piston- 2hole
spring- kit
Shocks layed over all the way
Roll bar 45Deg
ackermann-D
Rear
Trackwidth-200mm
Anti-roll bar 2.2
Diff 50,000
toe 3.0
camber L&R -3.5
ride height- 5.5
droop-3mm
offset-+0.0
tire 40 jaco
shock oil kit-600 Mugen
piston -2hole
spring-kit
Shocks layed over all the way
gearing 17/62-23/57
clutch spring- Kyosho
clutch shoe - Kit
I feel the car is a little under dampened out of the kit. Cant wait to try a diff in the front too.
...Ari
Car held out great all day 3 5min quals and a 20 Main no issues. Oiled my 2 speed oneway with some light bearing oil and had zero issues, didnt even need to re oil it.
Setup as follows:
Front
track width- 198mm
solid axle
toe -1
camber L&R -2
ride height -5mm
droop- 3.5 mm
caster - All the way back
offset-+0.0
Tire 40 jaco
Dia- 59mm
Shock oil - 500 Mugen
piston- 2hole
spring- kit
Shocks layed over all the way
Roll bar 45Deg
ackermann-D
Rear
Trackwidth-200mm
Anti-roll bar 2.2
Diff 50,000
toe 3.0
camber L&R -3.5
ride height- 5.5
droop-3mm
offset-+0.0
tire 40 jaco
shock oil kit-600 Mugen
piston -2hole
spring-kit
Shocks layed over all the way
gearing 17/62-23/57
clutch spring- Kyosho
clutch shoe - Kit
I feel the car is a little under dampened out of the kit. Cant wait to try a diff in the front too.
...Ari
07-22-2009, 02:28 PM
#388
Here is the weight of my car with pictures. i am using full size sanwa servos, OS engine, Vantage pipe, stratus body. And it weighs at 1692 grams.
07-22-2009, 03:16 PM
#389
and the tires are new and you have the gas cooler on!!!!
07-23-2009, 01:43 AM
#390
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
Hi guys,
I am looking for a piece of advise here...
Please take a look at the vertical lines on the diff cover...
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/2204/hpim0641h.jpg
Those are cracks that have not torn apart yet, but I am afraid they can.
Back when I used my RRR I had to tighten up my diffs at a point that is very close to what you see in the picture, warpage of the cover included. It was the only way to stop leaking diff silicon.
But with the G4RS 09, that seemed to be too much. Now I do not know how to stop my leak problem, and I need to use new parts if it ends up being I do not have to tighten up so far.
Please tell me how you have used yours, as I have not seen one negative comment or bad experience with your diffs...
I am looking for a piece of advise here...
Please take a look at the vertical lines on the diff cover...
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/2204/hpim0641h.jpg
Those are cracks that have not torn apart yet, but I am afraid they can.
Back when I used my RRR I had to tighten up my diffs at a point that is very close to what you see in the picture, warpage of the cover included. It was the only way to stop leaking diff silicon.
But with the G4RS 09, that seemed to be too much. Now I do not know how to stop my leak problem, and I need to use new parts if it ends up being I do not have to tighten up so far.
Please tell me how you have used yours, as I have not seen one negative comment or bad experience with your diffs...