Originally Posted by PrimeAKF11
Gmac and Miles- Thanks for the tips! I still don't have a firm grasp on the concept of droop and how it affects the car. I know the rear camber looks a bit excessive but anything other than that my car will cone the rear tires. I'm thinking maybe I'm using too soft of springs so the car is rolling excessively. I'll be there this Sunday and hope to see you guys.
There are several things that can cause your tires to cone.
If you combine too much toe in with little camber then your tires will cone out. If you reduce toe you can reduce coning, but very little toe means you have to find rear traction elsewhere.
So basically it all means that going excessive in any direction is plain bad for the car.
No camber will also cone out the tires.
So let's see what everyone else thinks of the following suggestion.
If you want less static camber (car just sitting flat on the table), then you need to use a shorter upper rear link. What that will do is increase your dinamic camber. That means the camber changes more as the car leans on that side. That compensates for excessive static camber. Do I make any sense??
Hppefully someone will correct me if I am wrong...
I noticed from your setup that you are using longer camber links at the rear per the roll center location you are using. I would suggest you try the outside positions on the tower so the camber link gets shorter.
Now, the change above will vary roll centers as well, and this is where it all gets complicated, because as you can see, one change detonates another.
So if I may share the following, these are my guidelines. The order in which I use them may not be the best solution but they do help me in the learning process.
- I would not use more than 3° of rear toe in. If the car needs more than that then I need to try something else. Excessive toe in causes excessive tire wear.
- Too much camber also means trouble. Again, I try to keep it less than 3.5°.
- I then move on to roll centers and camber links. The more parallel your camber link is with the lower A arm the lower the roll center will be during cornering. That in turn gives you more traction, as long as you do not go too far. Excess is bad here, too.
- If you use the inner camber holes in the tower then the camber links get longer. A longer camber link will reduce dinamic camber and if the car needs to roll to generate traction, then this will contribute to the coning in your tires. This is where the shorter link becomes an option.
- You could also change the car's track. The narrower the car's track is, the more the car will roll during cornering. If traction is high then you need to widen up the track.
Boy, I could go on forever. The learning process for me has been trying to balance out all of these factors and even more that you can play around with to find the perfect balance.
I am far far away from understanding perfectly what each setup option does for you, so in some cases if I loose it then it gets to be a little of trial and error. But if I get to that point, at least I bear in mind that there are certain limits of each setting that will keep the car drivable.
What separates the heroes from the rest of us is being able to identify quickly what to change in the car to make it fast and easy to drive.
Of course there is race car literature that will clear up all of these questions, if you are patient enough to read it carefully and even become involved with the math and physics. I am not that patient!
I sincerely hope that some of the loose ideas help you.
And if someone that knows about these things ever reads my posts, then I would be more than happy to read your replies and keep on learning!