Serpent 733 1/10 200mm touring
#2701
i am not sure that i have understood the effects of it, but i am thinking that
it does act opposite that the anti-roll bar, is it true? when the inner wheel suspension
is compressed, some force is transfered to the outer wheel suspension, but this is
opposite that the force the roll bar creates. Also, looking at the photos of
the kit, wouldnt it be better if more holes where created into the
aluminium thing in which rods are mounted? so as to decrease or increase the
effect of it..
it does act opposite that the anti-roll bar, is it true? when the inner wheel suspension
is compressed, some force is transfered to the outer wheel suspension, but this is
opposite that the force the roll bar creates. Also, looking at the photos of
the kit, wouldnt it be better if more holes where created into the
aluminium thing in which rods are mounted? so as to decrease or increase the
effect of it..
DAX/DLS is nothing more than a variable length on the upper suspension arm determed by the height and roll of the chassis no matter what the chassis does it will keep both wheels straight due the variable camber. With both wheels straight on the surface in a corner the inner wheel is also making grip....
Due the connection left/right there are pushing and pulling forces on the L/R connecting rods so you will have an anti rollbar.
#2702
A conventional suspension needs to work with a rollcenter/camberrise to prevent the wheels will get positive camber (you can see it on page 2 of that site). The disadvantage is that in a corner the outside wheel wil stay on 0 degrees camber but the inside wheel will get a lot of negative camber and so it does not help with making grip.
DAX/DLS is nothing more than a variable length on the upper suspension arm determed by the height and roll of the chassis no matter what the chassis does it will keep both wheels straight due the variable camber. With both wheels straight on the surface in a corner the inner wheel is also making grip....
Due the connection left/right there are pushing and pulling forces on the L/R connecting rods so you will have an anti rollbar.
DAX/DLS is nothing more than a variable length on the upper suspension arm determed by the height and roll of the chassis no matter what the chassis does it will keep both wheels straight due the variable camber. With both wheels straight on the surface in a corner the inner wheel is also making grip....
Due the connection left/right there are pushing and pulling forces on the L/R connecting rods so you will have an anti rollbar.
But, the anti roll bar doesnt tend to tranfer force from the outer wheel to the inner in a manner that increasing the negative camber on the inner wheel? and the dax suspension doesnt do the opossite?
#2703
Hi Guy's I have been running this car for the last couple of months, we spec race using RB Motors, the car runs pretty good and seems to be strong enough aside from the front bumper.
Someone said that you could use an NT1 bumper setup, anyone tried this?
Also wouldn't mind knowing some trade secrets on this thing?
ie: Shock oil, springs, tires, roll bars etc.
I would like some more overall grip, I have been running Matrix 37sh rears and 35sh fronts
Thanks
Grant
Someone said that you could use an NT1 bumper setup, anyone tried this?
Also wouldn't mind knowing some trade secrets on this thing?
ie: Shock oil, springs, tires, roll bars etc.
I would like some more overall grip, I have been running Matrix 37sh rears and 35sh fronts
Thanks
Grant
#2705
A conventional suspension needs to work with a rollcenter/camberrise to prevent the wheels will get positive camber (you can see it on page 2 of that site). The disadvantage is that in a corner the outside wheel wil stay on 0 degrees camber but the inside wheel will get a lot of negative camber and so it does not help with making grip.
DAX/DLS is nothing more than a variable length on the upper suspension arm determed by the height and roll of the chassis no matter what the chassis does it will keep both wheels straight due the variable camber. With both wheels straight on the surface in a corner the inner wheel is also making grip....
Due the connection left/right there are pushing and pulling forces on the L/R connecting rods so you will have an anti rollbar.
DAX/DLS is nothing more than a variable length on the upper suspension arm determed by the height and roll of the chassis no matter what the chassis does it will keep both wheels straight due the variable camber. With both wheels straight on the surface in a corner the inner wheel is also making grip....
Due the connection left/right there are pushing and pulling forces on the L/R connecting rods so you will have an anti rollbar.
#2707
Zerro degree is in theory possible but you have to be aware that there is still a chance the inside wheel in a corner can be lifted, if that hapens the outside wheel will loose the 0 degree camber so a 0.5 to 1 degree is wise to try but I can not tell how Serpent did set it up and is using it.
We also noticed that a camberrise (rollcenter) of about 0.5 degree does help a bit.
We also noticed that a camberrise (rollcenter) of about 0.5 degree does help a bit.
#2708
Tech Initiate
Fly weights
Hi all,
I have, like many others, gotten the kit with the hole in the fly weights drilled in the wrong end. Some have said that they can be used like this, but I am having trouble getting the clutch to engage. I have even reduces the spring tension from the 1.2 mm it states in the manual to about 0.2. It still does not engage, not even at close to full throttle.
Have any of you had this problem?
Anyway, I am having trouble getting a new set of flyweights from my dealer. (I thought that since this is a Serpent manufacturing error, that I would easily get new ones.. but apparently not )
So, I was thinking of simply making new ones myself, using PEEK material.
Does any of you happen to have the measurements of the fly weights? If any of you have that, I can go and make some right now.
Regards,
Serpent fan
I have, like many others, gotten the kit with the hole in the fly weights drilled in the wrong end. Some have said that they can be used like this, but I am having trouble getting the clutch to engage. I have even reduces the spring tension from the 1.2 mm it states in the manual to about 0.2. It still does not engage, not even at close to full throttle.
Have any of you had this problem?
Anyway, I am having trouble getting a new set of flyweights from my dealer. (I thought that since this is a Serpent manufacturing error, that I would easily get new ones.. but apparently not )
So, I was thinking of simply making new ones myself, using PEEK material.
Does any of you happen to have the measurements of the fly weights? If any of you have that, I can go and make some right now.
Regards,
Serpent fan
#2709
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
Hi all,
I have, like many others, gotten the kit with the hole in the fly weights drilled in the wrong end. Some have said that they can be used like this, but I am having trouble getting the clutch to engage. I have even reduces the spring tension from the 1.2 mm it states in the manual to about 0.2. It still does not engage, not even at close to full throttle.
Have any of you had this problem?
Anyway, I am having trouble getting a new set of flyweights from my dealer. (I thought that since this is a Serpent manufacturing error, that I would easily get new ones.. but apparently not )
So, I was thinking of simply making new ones myself, using PEEK material.
Does any of you happen to have the measurements of the fly weights? If any of you have that, I can go and make some right now.
Regards,
Serpent fan
I have, like many others, gotten the kit with the hole in the fly weights drilled in the wrong end. Some have said that they can be used like this, but I am having trouble getting the clutch to engage. I have even reduces the spring tension from the 1.2 mm it states in the manual to about 0.2. It still does not engage, not even at close to full throttle.
Have any of you had this problem?
Anyway, I am having trouble getting a new set of flyweights from my dealer. (I thought that since this is a Serpent manufacturing error, that I would easily get new ones.. but apparently not )
So, I was thinking of simply making new ones myself, using PEEK material.
Does any of you happen to have the measurements of the fly weights? If any of you have that, I can go and make some right now.
Regards,
Serpent fan
Last edited by Pattojnr; 07-28-2010 at 05:23 AM.
#2710
Tech Initiate
Thanks Pattojnr, I really appreciate it.
I didn't think I would get a replacement set, so I'm really grateful that you are willing to supply one Now I don't have to custom make some. Hehe.
Thanks again for excellent customer service!!
I didn't think I would get a replacement set, so I'm really grateful that you are willing to supply one Now I don't have to custom make some. Hehe.
Thanks again for excellent customer service!!
#2711
hi guys has anyone else look close at therear of some of the 733 . 2speed blocks are changed and the rear bearing blocks are changed tieing them together at the top now.
#2712
red rc has some good pics of the new parts at the WC
#2713
Tech Adept
help
hey guys what are the effects of the different positions of the ackerman of the car? excuse spelling
#2714
angles between inside and outside wheel when turning, is better
when you are facing off-throttle push at mid corner while having good
on throttle steering. Configuration: servo saver holes forward
more ackerman = rods are less angled, meaning bigger difference in
angles between inside and outside wheel when turning, is better
when you are facing on-throttle push while car steers good of-throttle
Configuration: servo saver holes back
Its all about on/off throttle steering. I think ackerman is a fine-tune setting.
#2715
Tech Adept
less ackerman= rods are more angled, meaning less difference in
angles between inside and outside wheel when turning, is better
when you are facing off-throttle push at mid corner while having good
on throttle steering. Configuration: servo saver holes forward
more ackerman = rods are less angled, meaning bigger difference in
angles between inside and outside wheel when turning, is better
when you are facing on-throttle push while car steers good of-throttle
Configuration: servo saver holes back
Its all about on/off throttle steering. I think ackerman is a fine-tune setting.
angles between inside and outside wheel when turning, is better
when you are facing off-throttle push at mid corner while having good
on throttle steering. Configuration: servo saver holes forward
more ackerman = rods are less angled, meaning bigger difference in
angles between inside and outside wheel when turning, is better
when you are facing on-throttle push while car steers good of-throttle
Configuration: servo saver holes back
Its all about on/off throttle steering. I think ackerman is a fine-tune setting.