Kyosho Evolva
#1291
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Originally Posted by Snowy
The instructions that come with the conversion kit say if you use the silver blocks, then use the old arms becasue the rear will be too wide with the new arms.
I cant confrim if this is true, have not installed the kit as yet.
I cant confrim if this is true, have not installed the kit as yet.
Makes sense. Either way even with the conversion installed I'll have plenty of the older longer arms common to the 05 car in the tool box. Thanks
#1293
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Originally Posted by cdelong
I just talked to Ted Hammer.... the black 7mm/3.5 blocks are required for the '07 conversion kit. The others will not work.
Guess I need a pair- anybody know where to find some?
Guess I need a pair- anybody know where to find some?
AHHHH!!!! Those babies aren't cheap!! I thought so...as the 07 conversion was designed around the WCE car I believe.
#1295
I ran all the 07 stuff this weekend at the Midwest Series race.
Correct, you must run the 7-3.5 blocks with the new lower a-arms. The Cincinnati track had very low bite, so I ran the old long upper a-arm with the new body mount. To run the old a-arm with the new body mount you must narrow the bosses on the a-arm so the body mount uprights fit. The rear body mount adjustability was invalueable on the low bite track. I ran the body on the 2nd highest setting.
Correct, you must run the 7-3.5 blocks with the new lower a-arms. The Cincinnati track had very low bite, so I ran the old long upper a-arm with the new body mount. To run the old a-arm with the new body mount you must narrow the bosses on the a-arm so the body mount uprights fit. The rear body mount adjustability was invalueable on the low bite track. I ran the body on the 2nd highest setting.
#1296
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
Are you guys running the 'stock' tie rods and camber adjustment rods? Using a piece of piano wire to make adjustments is becoming a real bitch!
I thought of getting some rods from Lunsford, but I don't see anything for the Evolva from them.
Thank you for any help.
Regards,
Steve
I thought of getting some rods from Lunsford, but I don't see anything for the Evolva from them.
Thank you for any help.
Regards,
Steve
#1297
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Originally Posted by aaron_buran
I ran all the 07 stuff this weekend at the Midwest Series race.
Correct, you must run the 7-3.5 blocks with the new lower a-arms. The Cincinnati track had very low bite, so I ran the old long upper a-arm with the new body mount. To run the old a-arm with the new body mount you must narrow the bosses on the a-arm so the body mount uprights fit. The rear body mount adjustability was invalueable on the low bite track. I ran the body on the 2nd highest setting.
Correct, you must run the 7-3.5 blocks with the new lower a-arms. The Cincinnati track had very low bite, so I ran the old long upper a-arm with the new body mount. To run the old a-arm with the new body mount you must narrow the bosses on the a-arm so the body mount uprights fit. The rear body mount adjustability was invalueable on the low bite track. I ran the body on the 2nd highest setting.
How do I tell the difference between the 7mm and 7mm/2 blocks? They are both silver and there are no markings. I think I have 7mm/2 blocks right now.
Corey DeLong
#1298
I use a small alen wrench that I cut down, it works great.
#1299
Sorry Corey, only have one set, have you checked with Robert at Ashford?
The only other way to tell is by measuring them,
The only other way to tell is by measuring them,
#1301
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by bsmooth
Are you guys running the 'stock' tie rods and camber adjustment rods? Using a piece of piano wire to make adjustments is becoming a real bitch!
I thought of getting some rods from Lunsford, but I don't see anything for the Evolva from them.
Thank you for any help.
Regards,
Steve
I thought of getting some rods from Lunsford, but I don't see anything for the Evolva from them.
Thank you for any help.
Regards,
Steve
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
#1302
From the side of the block to the hole with your calipers.
#1303
Originally Posted by aaron_buran
I ran all the 07 stuff this weekend at the Midwest Series race.
#1304
Tech Regular
Aaron is essentially correct - the 7 is the dimension in miilimeters from the chassis surface to the pin centerline, the 2 (or 3.5) is the dimension inboard from the original (first generation ) lower blocks. By the time i became involved with the car in the summer of 2004 the 7-2in was the kit part, I've only seen one 7-0 that Dana Smeltzer got by mistake, a quick way to tell if you've got 7-0 or 7-2 is the on 7-2 the pin is inboard of the set screw centerline.
#1305
It's hard to say with so little traction, not a night and day difference, I just had more tuning options that I didn't have in the past, the body mount itself was an asset with the low bite. I couldn't have thrown any more aero-downforce at the car, with the old body mount it wouldn't have been an option. The other big advantage is durability of the lower rear a-arm. I have backed the car into a board hard a couple times, and have driven away. The old a-arm's would have broke.