Originally Posted by quietstorm76
Dru you running Velox now?
Yes! and a sweet ride it is.
This weekend was our first time out with the car and it happened to be at Homestead..
I had lots of bad luck this weekend and therefore still didn't get a chance to reaalllllly drive the car. I can tell you this though, it can withstand abuse.
I had two really bad crashes and the car sustained minor damage. And both happened after I finally got the car setup right.
The first one I was rear ended by an 8th scale at the end of the straight away into the sweeper both of us going full throttle. The 8th scale driver made a bad judgment call and hit me without braking. All that broke from the car was the shock rods in the rear (nothing happened to the shock tower or any of the aluminum.) He also made the front knuckle pop off when he pinned the car against the wall from the impact. The knuckle didn't break and nothing else broke. The 8th scale also broke...good for him!!
This was the result from the impact of an 8th scale going down a 280 foot straightaway.
Second was right before the start of my main. I was in my first warm up lap and the battery shorted out as I went into the straightaway. The car took off at full speed for the whole 280 feet into the wall. This time my wide bumper saved the car. The bumper broke and the rear upper arm, and the knuckle popped off again (the same old one I may add.) That was it.... amazing. If this doesn't prove how durable the car is, then I don't know what will.
The battery shorted out because I forced it in when I upgraded to the brass battery tray. I did this right before my race and rushed it. I paid the price for that stupid move!
I did see the front universal being an issue for a driver and I'm not sure if that is going to be addressed any time soon. I do know for sure that the front wide bumper is a must for this car.
One more thing- my main problem was the fact that the hinge pin for the rear upper arm was a very tight fit. This is not an issue for many cars, but in the V10, we use set screws to secure it as this is our roll center adjustments as well. If that hinge pin does not go in freely and the arm does not move freely after you secure the set screws, then it will not matter what adjustments you make on the car, your rear will not function right as the whole suspension is out of the game. To make matters worse, if you didn't set your camber adjustment screw center into the upper arm, then when you give yourself more camber you will force the screw into the plastic and pin the hinge pin against the plastic. That too will freeze your rear suspension. I had both of those issues. I learned a big lesson this weekend and hopefully this post will prevent some of you from going down that road.