Serpent 710
06-21-2004, 10:29 PM
Re: Re: Piston broken
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
How many runs did that piston have? And under what conditions?
How many runs did that piston have? And under what conditions?
Piston broke after 3-4 min after starting. Outside temp 22C.
06-21-2004, 10:30 PM
Originally posted by InitialD
Use the FORCE / RING !
Why didn't I think of that - chuck the Ring over here, D 
Perhaps you could do some more of the breaking-in of the engine. Curious to know the performance. Crashed_1 got his already.
Use the FORCE / RING !
Why didn't I think of that - chuck the Ring over here, D Perhaps you could do some more of the breaking-in of the engine. Curious to know the performance. Crashed_1 got his already.
I was running at about 85C or 90C and it was faster than the 2106 tuned!!!! This thing is a monster I've got it running at 100C just before I went on hols and will take it upto 110C when I get back to the track. Not sure what the max temp is on this - with it having ceramic bearings.
Crashed: you done any run-in yet? Have you got the cermic bearing version?
Cheers, Mark.
PS: I will also record the WAV file for you D - do you want a fly past or an idle?
06-21-2004, 10:33 PM
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by InitialD
The AE stealth grease is good but only for a short run. The grease wears off fast and you'll have a gritty diff.
With the Mugen Super Grease, it is very sticky and sticks to the balls for what seems like eternity. A very thin layer would suffice.
The AE stealth grease is good but only for a short run. The grease wears off fast and you'll have a gritty diff.
With the Mugen Super Grease, it is very sticky and sticks to the balls for what seems like eternity. A very thin layer would suffice.
Im using 3rc upper 1way holder and I can loosen 2 notch (eccentric tensioner) comparing with the composite mid shaft mount with same old belt.
The clearance between battery holder is not scarry anymore.
1 more important thing, bearing fit is truly h7 class perfect!!
06-21-2004, 10:35 PM
Originally posted by markp27
Crashed: you done any run-in yet? Have you got the cermic bearing version?
Crashed: you done any run-in yet? Have you got the cermic bearing version?
He just go it though. I don't think he ran it in yet. Wanted to persuade him to let me run it in for him this weekend since he'll be off to meet Charlize Theron in SA for about a week or so.
Originally posted by markp27
PS: I will also record the WAV file for you D - do you want a fly past or an idle?
PS: I will also record the WAV file for you D - do you want a fly past or an idle?
06-21-2004, 10:36 PM
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Bro, serpent new alu. middle shaft mount is perfect answer from the snake.
Im using 3rc upper 1way holder and I can loosen 2 notch (eccentric tensioner) comparing with the composite mid shaft mount with same old belt.
The clearance between battery holder is not scarry anymore.
1 more important thing, bearing fit is truly h7 class perfect!!
Bro, serpent new alu. middle shaft mount is perfect answer from the snake.
Im using 3rc upper 1way holder and I can loosen 2 notch (eccentric tensioner) comparing with the composite mid shaft mount with same old belt.
The clearance between battery holder is not scarry anymore.
1 more important thing, bearing fit is truly h7 class perfect!!
Cheers, Mark.
06-21-2004, 10:42 PM
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Bro, serpent new alu. middle shaft mount is perfect answer from the snake.
Im using 3rc upper 1way holder and I can loosen 2 notch (eccentric tensioner) comparing with the composite mid shaft mount with same old belt.
The clearance between battery holder is not scarry anymore.
1 more important thing, bearing fit is truly h7 class perfect!!
Bro, serpent new alu. middle shaft mount is perfect answer from the snake.
Im using 3rc upper 1way holder and I can loosen 2 notch (eccentric tensioner) comparing with the composite mid shaft mount with same old belt.
The clearance between battery holder is not scarry anymore.
1 more important thing, bearing fit is truly h7 class perfect!!
I thought I would end up with a loose middle belt since the mid bearing block was tilted but after straightening the chassis a little in the center (took a long time), the middle belt is OK and I don't need to put the tensioner to max downward to get rid of the middle belt slag. The side tensioner is just slightly below the top position.
Do you have the problem of the chassis bending in the middle where the X bar radio tray support is and also around the part where the engine is mounted?
06-21-2004, 10:43 PM
Originally posted by InitialD
Of course it's the ceramic bearing + black coated crankshaft version. Nothing but the best for him.
Of course it's the ceramic bearing + black coated crankshaft version. Nothing but the best for him.
He just go it though. I don't think he ran it in yet. Wanted to persuade him to let me run it in for him this weekend since he'll be off to meet Charlize Theron in SA for about a week or so.
Both please...
06-21-2004, 10:43 PM
Originally posted by markp27
Have I missed something whilst I was away: where can I see the new middle shaft mount?
Have I missed something whilst I was away: where can I see the new middle shaft mount?
06-21-2004, 10:51 PM
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by markp27
Have I missed something whilst I was away: where can I see the new middle shaft mount?
Cheers, Mark.
Have I missed something whilst I was away: where can I see the new middle shaft mount?
Cheers, Mark.
It is SER-802155 Bracket middle shaft alu
and D was right, aluminium silver finish.
06-21-2004, 10:53 PM
Originally posted by GoldFinger
and D was right, aluminium silver finish.
and D was right, aluminium silver finish.
06-21-2004, 10:57 PM
Originally posted by GoldFinger
sorry Mark, cannot find a publication for it.
It is SER-802155 Bracket middle shaft alu
and D was right, aluminium silver finish.
sorry Mark, cannot find a publication for it.
It is SER-802155 Bracket middle shaft alu
and D was right, aluminium silver finish.
06-21-2004, 10:58 PM
Tech Elite
Re: Winternats 2004
Originally posted by markp27
A sweet surprise when I got home yesterday, Ray Wood's DVD was waiting for me The DVD is worth every penny!!! Great job by Ray once more and the action is thrilling. It's amazing to watch Mike Swauger in the 1:10th - everything seemed to go wrong for him, but he kept his cool and got the job done. The 1:8th was carnage central! Fukuda looked great in the 1:8th, but Mike looked better in the 1:10th.
Go out and get your copy
Cheers, Mark.
A sweet surprise when I got home yesterday, Ray Wood's DVD was waiting for me
The DVD is worth every penny!!! Great job by Ray once more and the action is thrilling. It's amazing to watch Mike Swauger in the 1:10th - everything seemed to go wrong for him, but he kept his cool and got the job done. The 1:8th was carnage central! Fukuda looked great in the 1:8th, but Mike looked better in the 1:10th.Go out and get your copy
Cheers, Mark.
But his 1:10th was very fast and expectly long straight ......I just wonder what the engine he used ?
06-21-2004, 11:01 PM
Re: Re: Winternats 2004
Originally posted by MrChan
I just wonder what the engine he used ?
I just wonder what the engine he used ?
06-21-2004, 11:03 PM
Re: Re: Winternats 2004
Originally posted by MrChan
I have already watched the DVD. Swauger 1:8th was just fast but not as fast as Raph, Josh or Fukuda. The way he was driving on the stand was quite funny ... But his 1:10th was very fast and expectly long straight ......I just wonder what the engine he used ?
I have already watched the DVD. Swauger 1:8th was just fast but not as fast as Raph, Josh or Fukuda. The way he was driving on the stand was quite funny ...
But his 1:10th was very fast and expectly long straight ......I just wonder what the engine he used ?
Pretty much summed up what we saw Great DVD!
06-21-2004, 11:04 PM
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by InitialD
Cool. Glad to know that and thanks for the info bro. Yesterday, I did the old Impulse / 705 trick. Put some shims (0.5 mm) under the composite mid bearing block to tilt it backwards to tighten the front belt.
I thought I would end up with a loose middle belt since the mid bearing block was tilted but after straightening the chassis a little in the center (took a long time), the middle belt is OK and I don't need to put the tensioner to max downward to get rid of the middle belt slag. The side tensioner is just slightly below the top position.
Cool. Glad to know that and thanks for the info bro. Yesterday, I did the old Impulse / 705 trick. Put some shims (0.5 mm) under the composite mid bearing block to tilt it backwards to tighten the front belt.
I thought I would end up with a loose middle belt since the mid bearing block was tilted but after straightening the chassis a little in the center (took a long time), the middle belt is OK and I don't need to put the tensioner to max downward to get rid of the middle belt slag. The side tensioner is just slightly below the top position.
Originally posted by InitialD
Do you have the problem of the chassis bending in the middle where the X bar radio tray support is and also around the part where the engine is mounted?
Do you have the problem of the chassis bending in the middle where the X bar radio tray support is and also around the part where the engine is mounted?
After hard impact, usually the notch on the X bracket will broke.
And this will make chasis bend(upward) more.
In 705, X braket is aluminium so the carbon stiffener is the one that will broke.
Just like shock shaft game, which one you choose, broken shaft or lower ball end pop off. Adding more play on top of shock mounting definetely reduce the risk.