Serpent 710
Re: Re: sweay bar
Originally posted by PUNISHER
It just need to barley go inside that female (cup) part.........you probably had it to far in were it wasn't moving to freely.
It just need to barley go inside that female (cup) part.........you probably had it to far in were it wasn't moving to freely.
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by cyba888
I am getting understeer off power exiting corners. Besides changing tire shores how can I correct this?
I am getting understeer off power exiting corners. Besides changing tire shores how can I correct this?
Originally posted by cyba888
Its made out of titanium and whats also cool about it is that the holes for the body post sits about 1-2 cm lower than the factory rear shock towers.
Its made out of titanium and whats also cool about it is that the holes for the body post sits about 1-2 cm lower than the factory rear shock towers.
So far, my new Serpent rear CF shock tower has lasted me.
Originally posted by cyba888
Ran the car today and went really well. I dont think at one time it ran this good. I used 35 shores on all 4. When exiting a corner a get understeer. Is there any way I can correct this without losing more steering?
Ran the car today and went really well. I dont think at one time it ran this good. I used 35 shores on all 4. When exiting a corner a get understeer. Is there any way I can correct this without losing more steering?
Re: Re: Re: Short track setups
Originally posted by kreidel
Any input on gaining steering?
Any input on gaining steering?
I found that it gives a very subtle but noticeable difference to steering without messing up the setup too much.
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Why is your car in "off-power" condition when exiting corner ?
Why is your car in "off-power" condition when exiting corner ?
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Why is your car in "off-power" condition when exiting corner ?
Why is your car in "off-power" condition when exiting corner ?
Originally posted by kreidel
The rear traction is great even with the 40 rears and 37 front.
The rear traction is great even with the 40 rears and 37 front.
Tech Fanatic
Re: To Isolate or not is the question?
Originally posted by wolfejohne
I am at the stage of putting the servos in my car, and would like to know if I should isolate the servos from mechanical vibration? In the past (15 years) when I raced Hydroplanes we used the rubber isolators that were supplied with the servos. When I changed to Electric 12th and 10th pan cars we mounted the servos solid with no isolators. Now 10 years later with gas cars what is the correct thing to do? I am using Futaba S9350 for steering & S9405 for the throttle. When I try to use the rubber mounts that came with the servos, the hardware supplied is not long enough and the holes in the steering mount are to large the support the brass inserts. I have a picture of Rene Cornella’s 710 I took at the Winternats and it looks like he does not use any servo isolation ( I think).
I tried to post a picture but the file size was two large.
I am at the stage of putting the servos in my car, and would like to know if I should isolate the servos from mechanical vibration? In the past (15 years) when I raced Hydroplanes we used the rubber isolators that were supplied with the servos. When I changed to Electric 12th and 10th pan cars we mounted the servos solid with no isolators. Now 10 years later with gas cars what is the correct thing to do? I am using Futaba S9350 for steering & S9405 for the throttle. When I try to use the rubber mounts that came with the servos, the hardware supplied is not long enough and the holes in the steering mount are to large the support the brass inserts. I have a picture of Rene Cornella’s 710 I took at the Winternats and it looks like he does not use any servo isolation ( I think).
I tried to post a picture but the file size was two large.
Re: To Isolate or not is the question?
Originally posted by wolfejohne
I am at the stage of putting the servos in my car, and would like to know if I should isolate the servos from mechanical vibration? In the past (15 years) when I raced Hydroplanes we used the rubber isolators that were supplied with the servos. When I changed to Electric 12th and 10th pan cars we mounted the servos solid with no isolators. Now 10 years later with gas cars what is the correct thing to do? I am using Futaba S9350 for steering & S9405 for the throttle. When I try to use the rubber mounts that came with the servos, the hardware supplied is not long enough and the holes in the steering mount are to large the support the brass inserts. I have a picture of Rene Cornella’s 710 I took at the Winternats and it looks like he does not use any servo isolation ( I think).
I tried to post a picture but the file size was two large.
I am at the stage of putting the servos in my car, and would like to know if I should isolate the servos from mechanical vibration? In the past (15 years) when I raced Hydroplanes we used the rubber isolators that were supplied with the servos. When I changed to Electric 12th and 10th pan cars we mounted the servos solid with no isolators. Now 10 years later with gas cars what is the correct thing to do? I am using Futaba S9350 for steering & S9405 for the throttle. When I try to use the rubber mounts that came with the servos, the hardware supplied is not long enough and the holes in the steering mount are to large the support the brass inserts. I have a picture of Rene Cornella’s 710 I took at the Winternats and it looks like he does not use any servo isolation ( I think).
I tried to post a picture but the file size was two large.
If you really want to do a pro job I would suggest get some silicon gel (clear tile sealant) and put a thin layer between the radio tray and everything it touches.
This will provide a little absortion from the higher vibrations that a nitro car engine produces. Reducing as much of the vibration in the chassis as possible is one of the better places to find that little bit extra power from the engine.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Short track setups
Originally posted by Proficar403
First, move the ball cup on the steering arm from the top to the bottom, which gives a little more throw when running less caster.
First, move the ball cup on the steering arm from the top to the bottom, which gives a little more throw when running less caster.
But does the front belt rub against the steering linkage when the ball cup is mounted on the bottom of the steering arm?
Re: To Isolate or not is the question?
Originally posted by wolfejohne
When I try to use the rubber mounts that came with the servos, the hardware supplied is not long enough and the holes in the steering mount are to large the support the brass inserts.
When I try to use the rubber mounts that came with the servos, the hardware supplied is not long enough and the holes in the steering mount are to large the support the brass inserts.
On gas cars, I would want to use the rubber gromets to isolate the vibration from the engine.
Originally posted by Pyramid
hmmmm.. this is new, even when I`m running with old belt (loose) it still never get out from the pulley.
hmmmm.. this is new, even when I`m running with old belt (loose) it still never get out from the pulley.
I did point this out in my "wish list" not too long ago for Serpent to come out with a more "aggressive" ecenters. The one for the rear of the 950R to fit the 51T rear pulley works fine on the 710 according to Rene. It is able to tighten the belt more because it is more eccentric.
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Re: Re: To Isolate or not is the question?
Originally posted by InitialD
I did not have problems putting the brass inserts and the rubber gromets into the servos.
On gas cars, I would want to use the rubber gromets to isolate the vibration from the engine.
I did not have problems putting the brass inserts and the rubber gromets into the servos.
On gas cars, I would want to use the rubber gromets to isolate the vibration from the engine.
I have all size of 3M screw sitting at home
Tech Fanatic
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Short track setups
Originally posted by InitialD
I think that's the same as mounting the steering linkage on TOP of the servo saver instead of bottom as per the manual.
But does the front belt rub against the steering linkage when the ball cup is mounted on the bottom of the steering arm?
I think that's the same as mounting the steering linkage on TOP of the servo saver instead of bottom as per the manual.
But does the front belt rub against the steering linkage when the ball cup is mounted on the bottom of the steering arm?
Big number of downstop can eliminate this, but the car is very "nervous" on high speed sweeper.