teammpp

Already have done. The joys of Broadband. Shame Sam caught the curb or she might well have gave Mark a good run for his money. That seemed to throw her off the rythym a bit.

Wap

Is the short stroke something i can change or is the 2103 is not worth it at all.

PSI Racing

Serpent has released these coated ceramic balls for use in the differential of the Serpent 710.
1378 Balls ceramic coated (12)

http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=3290

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

hey all, I was wondering if anyone has tried to use a 710 front one-way diff in an mtx-3.

thanks Jason

PUNISHER

iTrader: (2)

Hhhmm....Maybe you should be asking that question in the MTX3 thread.

Arun

...And I just purchased some from another source.

Serpent's will not be cheap, though...above 30USD. Now they need to make the diff rings available seperately.

Pyramid

good one

Pyramid

Do not tighten the insert to hard. Make sure there are a little play so it won`t bounch back on impact which will pops out ball from its knuckle.

SupermaxxRich

iTrader: (16)

Well, put the front diff in my car. I only have about 5-6 tanks of fuel threw the car so I figured I didn't need to take it right apart yet. I put the setup "D" posted on page 384, set the whole car up with a brand new set of GQ 40 shore tires all the way around.
Went to the track today, it wasn't blown off very well, quite dirty!! Started the car up and drove it lightly around, put the brakes on and it spun out like I had a oneway in it? Went down the straight and started accelerating hard and it pulled hard to the left.
The rear diffs I have already ran with the oneway when I broke the engine in. They were set quite loose. The front on the other hand was very tight even with the adjuster coller on the diff set all the way loose? So I pulled the diff out to loosen the screw that goes in the middle of the diff. Set it loose enough so that now I could spin the outdrives by hand. Put it all back together and with the wheels on it was still quite tight to turn, allot tighter than the back. I head back out, hit the brakes and it spins out again! Shut the car off, apply the brakes and noe I can spin the front pulley just like a oneway????????? I don't know what to do? If I set the screw in the middle of the diff tight enough so that the pulley doens't spin by hand its very hard to turn the outdrives. If I loosen it enough to free up the outdrives the pulley spins?
Got fed up and popped the oneway diff back in the front. Car drove not to bad but between the track being filthy. track being very technical and tight, I was lacking a little in steering. Plus at the end of the straight there is a 90 degree right turn you have to have brakes to be able to make any time on this track. I had to let off the throttle half way down the straight in order to be able to slow down enough in time to make the corner. There was another fellow there with a 710, had it geared down, front diff and 40 shore SpeedMind wheels and he was just ripping up the track. So I was driving around a bit(wiped out a few times hard, cartwheeled the car like 20 times once and never broke a thing!) and I could hear this little mtealicky squeeky noise coming from my car, couldn't figure out what it was? Brought the car in after a couple of tanks and realized that I toasted the Centax thrust bearing. Clutch was ingaged at all times(just took it apart to confirm and all the ball bearings fell out every where)
I don't know what to say about today but I need some advice before I flip out! I used a Synthetic Automotive grease for the bearings, made sure I packed them good. Shimmed the Centax to perfection with a set of $200 digital calipers. I set the Centax to 0.5mm endplay and then set the total end play to 0.1mm endplay. The only thing I can think about that may have caused this was that my clutch spring was a little tighter than it should have been and it took quite a few RPM's before the clutch would engage, maybe I over heated the bearing?? Its all stock the Centax III, nothing has been modified.
I also used this same grease in the diff as well, I followed Glen's article on MYTSN to the tee The guy that had that smoking fast 710 told me that he doesn't use grease on his diff balls, he finds the diff works better this way and lasts longer as well? Plus there was another guy there driving a Brushless electric car, pretty fast driver and he said that on his VETEQ and R40 that he doesn't even use grease in the Centax thrust bearing. HE said he has quite good succes and hasn't had a failure yet? Over a gallon threw his R40. Then I have this problem with my front diff. PLEASE, I need some help!!!! One other thing I tried when I still had the front diff in my car and it was quite hard to turn the front tires I figured I'd try to make the back almost as tight as the front, well that didn't work either car still spun out when hitting the brakes.

I'm also looking for a killer setup for my car, going to run the front diff. The track is super small and with alot of quick turns, car is changing direction continually. I'm also going to gear my car for quicker acceleration, the guy with the yellow 710 told me what gearing he was running so I'm going to go and get me some pinion and spur gear sprockets. Let me clarify this, does removing the front sway bar or lessoning its power like going from 90 degrees to level make the car have more steering or less? Thanks for your time and I hope to hear some responses soon!

markp27

Have you check that the pulley grub screws are tight - I one had a grub screw on the front pulley come loose and my car spun all over the place as under acceleration, the front wheels weren't being driven.

markp27

I had this problem at first, I believe it was because the bearing ran dry - now in the 705 I never had to touch the thrust bearing, but on the 710, I make sure I keep it well greased. I've never had the problem again. I would recommend the Mugen Super grease, as it is sooooo sticky Keep checking on the bearing until you get a feel of how often you have to re-grease it.

markp27

It could be due to the spring tension - if the clutch is taking some time to come in, then the force at which it comes in will be higher - it is possible that this overloaded the thrust bearing.

markp27

Not sure which system the R40 uses, but the Centax III requires more precise setup than the older Centax versions - the Centax II was pretty much fool proof - you could set it up quite badly and it would still work ok. The centax III requires much more precise setup to work well.

markp27

A tight front diff should give you plenty of brakes, so that shouldn't make you spin out - have you adjusted your brake power on your Tx unit? Maybe it is set too high and is instantly locking up all the wheels.
Set it up at first, so that when you push your car on the track with the breaks full on, the wheels don't lock. You can take this as your basic setting and then add braking power as you need it, upto the point where the car starts spining.

Anit-rollbar: harder = less steering. The 90 degree setting is the hardest and therefore has the least steering (90 degrees is when the "blade" is pointing up-down, like this | )

PMR

I'm inetrested with the topic you post in serpent's website regarding the modified flyweights. My question is, when you cut the shoe into three pieces what do you use? Dremel? Cutter?