Serpent 710
02-24-2004, 09:21 AM
#4816
Originally posted by markp27
Maybe, can't help there - but it could be that there is more pre-tension on one side than the other (i.e. the tension used to get rid of any tweak).
Good luck with the mosquito - at least we don't have them here until June
Maybe, can't help there - but it could be that there is more pre-tension on one side than the other (i.e. the tension used to get rid of any tweak).
Good luck with the mosquito - at least we don't have them here until June
I usually dont get mosquitos in my place either until the summer time. Tell me your location and ill tell my mosquito buddy to give you a surprise visit
Dam I think I just got bit on the ear! 
I closed my bedroom door hoping its outside but now im afraid to sleep ...argh!
02-24-2004, 09:39 AM
#4817
Originally posted by cyba888
Someone mentioned my chassis might be tweaked. I highly doubt it but will check it out as well. If it is then im screwed!
I usually dont get mosquitos in my place either until the summer time. Tell me your location and ill tell my mosquito buddy to give you a surprise visit Dam I think I just got bit on the ear! I closed my bedroom door hoping its outside but now im afraid to sleep ...argh!
Someone mentioned my chassis might be tweaked. I highly doubt it but will check it out as well. If it is then im screwed!
I usually dont get mosquitos in my place either until the summer time. Tell me your location and ill tell my mosquito buddy to give you a surprise visit
Dam I think I just got bit on the ear! I closed my bedroom door hoping its outside but now im afraid to sleep ...argh!
Ehm, I live at the north pole! Nuremberg is just a disguise
02-24-2004, 12:05 PM
#4818
Originally posted by InitialD
26 mm wide front and 30 mm wide (or even 31 mm) rear.
That question you need to answer for yourself. Ask around the people on the track what shore hardness they are using. Harder shores last longer but generally gives you less traction. Sometimes even unusable at your track !
I suggest you stick with foams if you want to practise or if you plan to race. If you buy from certain places in HK, they can come up even cheaper than rubber tires with rims and inserts. With foams, you only got to play with the shore hardness variable unlike with rubber tires. Rubber tires once overheat will never not give you the same exact traction (even after it has cooled down) when it is new.
26 mm wide front and 30 mm wide (or even 31 mm) rear.
That question you need to answer for yourself. Ask around the people on the track what shore hardness they are using. Harder shores last longer but generally gives you less traction. Sometimes even unusable at your track !
I suggest you stick with foams if you want to practise or if you plan to race. If you buy from certain places in HK, they can come up even cheaper than rubber tires with rims and inserts. With foams, you only got to play with the shore hardness variable unlike with rubber tires. Rubber tires once overheat will never not give you the same exact traction (even after it has cooled down) when it is new.
To determine when to change to a different hardness, bear in mind that there are two types of tyre traction: forward traction and side bite.
Forward traction dictates how hard the car can accelerate and side bite is the amount of traction obtained when the tyre is loaded due to cornering forces.
Generally soft tyres give more forward traction and harder tyres give more side bite. And this is why fronts are generally harder than rears.
There are obviously limits to this and going too far in either direction will result in loss of traction.
Cheers, Mark.
02-24-2004, 04:30 PM
#4819
Originally posted by baller360
can someone please answer my post!
can someone please answer my post!
Beside, the NS15 is considered OUTLAW and most of the track WOULD NOT allow you to run along with the other TC with 12 engine......but if you want something to run around at the parking lot....that is probably one expensive and powerfull engine to run...
email me or PM me about the Nova Mega 3 SS...
02-24-2004, 05:12 PM
#4820
Originally posted by cyba888
When I lift the car both wheels come off the floor but one of the arms seems to drop faster than the other. I think it might have to do with the shocks not being even when rebounding. Dam it! I got bit by a mosquito! How the hell did it get into my place
Trying to type and hunt it down at the same time
When I lift the car both wheels come off the floor but one of the arms seems to drop faster than the other. I think it might have to do with the shocks not being even when rebounding. Dam it! I got bit by a mosquito! How the hell did it get into my place
Trying to type and hunt it down at the same time
1) Check your suspension arms (at all area) make sure all of them can swing up and down freely without any binding....
2) The length of the shock are equal.....you know that part.
3) The pre-load of the springs.....
4) I think that is where the problem is....make sure the HOLES opening are the same....2,3,4 or 5.... You might have a shock open at 4 hole and the other is in 3 hole, the more holes open, the FASTER the shaft will travel (less dampering, less rebound).
Check that out....(I would say check the oil too.....but you must be crazy to have 2 different oil weight into 2 shocks)
02-24-2004, 05:17 PM
#4821
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
4 things to check that....
1) Check your suspension arms (at all area) make sure all of them can swing up and down freely without any binding....
2) The length of the shock are equal.....you know that part.
3) The pre-load of the springs.....
4) I think that is where the problem is....make sure the HOLES opening are the same....2,3,4 or 5.... You might have a shock open at 4 hole and the other is in 3 hole, the more holes open, the FASTER the shaft will travel (less dampering, less rebound).
Check that out....(I would say check the oil too.....but you must be crazy to have 2 different oil weight into 2 shocks)
4 things to check that....
1) Check your suspension arms (at all area) make sure all of them can swing up and down freely without any binding....
2) The length of the shock are equal.....you know that part.
3) The pre-load of the springs.....
4) I think that is where the problem is....make sure the HOLES opening are the same....2,3,4 or 5.... You might have a shock open at 4 hole and the other is in 3 hole, the more holes open, the FASTER the shaft will travel (less dampering, less rebound).
Check that out....(I would say check the oil too.....but you must be crazy to have 2 different oil weight into 2 shocks)
02-24-2004, 05:24 PM
#4822
Tech Rookie
hi yall. im new to this forum. im going to purchase this kit, but my LHS does not carry serpent. does anyone know the cheapest place to buy this kit online? i heard they go as low as 340. thanks
02-24-2004, 05:28 PM
#4823
Originally posted by cyba888
Im sure I have everything that you mentioned correct. The only thing could be the rebound of the shocks. Will check it out.
Im sure I have everything that you mentioned correct. The only thing could be the rebound of the shocks. Will check it out.
02-24-2004, 05:32 PM
#4824
Originally posted by markp27
To determine when to change to a different hardness, bear in mind that there are two types of tyre traction: forward traction and side bite.
Forward traction dictates how hard the car can accelerate and side bite is the amount of traction obtained when the tyre is loaded due to cornering forces.
Generally soft tyres give more forward traction and harder tyres give more side bite. And this is why fronts are generally harder than rears.
There are obviously limits to this and going too far in either direction will result in loss of traction.
To determine when to change to a different hardness, bear in mind that there are two types of tyre traction: forward traction and side bite.
Forward traction dictates how hard the car can accelerate and side bite is the amount of traction obtained when the tyre is loaded due to cornering forces.
Generally soft tyres give more forward traction and harder tyres give more side bite. And this is why fronts are generally harder than rears.
There are obviously limits to this and going too far in either direction will result in loss of traction.
02-24-2004, 05:40 PM
#4825
Originally posted by cyba888
I think in order for my car to run good with 37 shores is to toe out a bit more and use red springs that I am hoping will arrive my this weekend!
I think in order for my car to run good with 37 shores is to toe out a bit more and use red springs that I am hoping will arrive my this weekend!
Harder front shock springs or oil and front sway bar setting also helps. You could mount the front shock more vertical.
You could also use harder front shore tires. Or if you need to be more adventurous, play with the front roll center setting. Go to the highest front roll center setting.
Anyway, do it one at the time. I would suggest trying the simplest which would be the ride height, shock angle setting, front sway bar adjustment and the tire change.
02-24-2004, 07:06 PM
#4826
Does the Seprent 710 setup book come in pdf format?
Highest front roll center would mean the suspension arms are closer together right?
Highest front roll center would mean the suspension arms are closer together right?
02-24-2004, 07:09 PM
#4827
Originally posted by InitialD
If you're traction rolling, first and foremost, check the ride height ! Use about 6 to 7 mm or even lower. Smaller diameter tires also help. Don't forget when using smaller tires, change to use bigger pinions (or smaller spurs) to compensate for the loss in tire rollout (top speed) accordingly. At least you'll not get blasted on the straights.
Harder front shock springs or oil and front sway bar setting also helps. You could mount the front shock more vertical.
You could also use harder front shore tires. Or if you need to be more adventurous, play with the front roll center setting. Go to the highest front roll center setting.
Anyway, do it one at the time. I would suggest trying the simplest which would be the ride height, shock angle setting, front sway bar adjustment and the tire change.
If you're traction rolling, first and foremost, check the ride height ! Use about 6 to 7 mm or even lower. Smaller diameter tires also help. Don't forget when using smaller tires, change to use bigger pinions (or smaller spurs) to compensate for the loss in tire rollout (top speed) accordingly. At least you'll not get blasted on the straights.
Harder front shock springs or oil and front sway bar setting also helps. You could mount the front shock more vertical.
You could also use harder front shore tires. Or if you need to be more adventurous, play with the front roll center setting. Go to the highest front roll center setting.
Anyway, do it one at the time. I would suggest trying the simplest which would be the ride height, shock angle setting, front sway bar adjustment and the tire change.
02-24-2004, 07:30 PM
#4828
Originally posted by cyba888
Does the Seprent 710 setup book come in pdf format?
Does the Seprent 710 setup book come in pdf format?
Originally posted by cyba888
Highest front roll center would mean the suspension arms are closer together right?
Highest front roll center would mean the suspension arms are closer together right?
In that case I referred to above, put the all shims (2 + 2 = 4 mm) on the top just below the carbon graphite upper deck. That would make the suspension arms angle the most.
02-24-2004, 07:40 PM
#4829
Originally posted by InitialD
...When the suspension arms are angles or crossed at a steeper angle, then you get higher roll center. More parallel the suspension arms, the lower the roll center.
In that case I referred to above, put the all shims (2 + 2 = 4 mm) on the top just below the carbon graphite upper deck. That would make the suspension arms angle the most.
...When the suspension arms are angles or crossed at a steeper angle, then you get higher roll center. More parallel the suspension arms, the lower the roll center.
In that case I referred to above, put the all shims (2 + 2 = 4 mm) on the top just below the carbon graphite upper deck. That would make the suspension arms angle the most.
02-24-2004, 07:49 PM
#4830
Originally posted by jfc_tech
higher roll center can avoid traction roll on corner entry...is that correct?
higher roll center can avoid traction roll on corner entry...is that correct?