Serpent 710
02-06-2004, 05:32 AM
#4036
Originally posted by Rene C.
To change the mould that you can adjust the wheelbase would be a big change, we don’t will do such a change. The front bumper has a to hard material. We will change the material and make it a little thicker. So this “problem” should be solved than.
On the lower rear wishbone the pivotball can came out when you have an unlucky hit from behind. That is because the thread of the alu-pivotball’s is shorter than the steel one’s. You can solve this “problem” your own, by putting the steel-pivotball in the wishbone. So more thread is in the wishbone. Than this will not happen any more.
To change the mould that you can adjust the wheelbase would be a big change, we don’t will do such a change. The front bumper has a to hard material. We will change the material and make it a little thicker. So this “problem” should be solved than.
On the lower rear wishbone the pivotball can came out when you have an unlucky hit from behind. That is because the thread of the alu-pivotball’s is shorter than the steel one’s. You can solve this “problem” your own, by putting the steel-pivotball in the wishbone. So more thread is in the wishbone. Than this will not happen any more.
When I measure droop on my car (when it was brand new) using the outer bottom part of the knuckles, I have different measurement with if I were using one of that lower shock mounting positions... L/R camber is the same. I'm talking about 0.5-1mm different on L/R droop. Until now I do not want to know why since it drives great. But since you mention some changes on that area, it might be usefull to mention..
And what do you guys mean by calling them "body plate"... for once you already keep me thinking for soo long the meaning of "body roll" (on 705 problems) as you should have call it "FLIP"
02-06-2004, 05:56 AM
#4037
I notice my 710 screws are starting to rust on top 
Would WD40 take care of that problem of would I need something stronger to take away the rust? Anyone have this problem? Its only 1 month old, maybe my hands were sweaty when I built mine
Would WD40 take care of that problem of would I need something stronger to take away the rust? Anyone have this problem? Its only 1 month old, maybe my hands were sweaty when I built mine
02-06-2004, 06:08 AM
#4038
Originally posted by cyba888
I notice my 710 screws are starting to rust on top
Would WD40 take care of that problem of would I need something stronger to take away the rust? Anyone have this problem? Its only 1 month old, maybe my hands were sweaty when I built mine
I notice my 710 screws are starting to rust on top
Would WD40 take care of that problem of would I need something stronger to take away the rust? Anyone have this problem? Its only 1 month old, maybe my hands were sweaty when I built mine
02-06-2004, 06:15 AM
#4039
Originally posted by Craig1
Young Billy talk a look at my new car.
I like to call it a Mirage, because it's not what it appears.
Craig
Young Billy talk a look at my new car.
I like to call it a Mirage, because it's not what it appears.
Craig
You have too much time. Because I know how much time it costs to do things like this. It looks nice.
You did not change the front track-wide?
So the car is rear very wide (like 248mm) and front very small (like 225mm).
How does the car perform against a S835?
02-06-2004, 07:43 AM
#4040
Originally posted by Rene C.
On the lower rear wishbone the pivotball can came out when you have an unlucky hit from behind. That is because the thread of the alu-pivotball’s is shorter than the steel one’s. You can solve this “problem” your own, by putting the steel-pivotball in the wishbone. So more thread is in the wishbone. Than this will not happen any more.
On the lower rear wishbone the pivotball can came out when you have an unlucky hit from behind. That is because the thread of the alu-pivotball’s is shorter than the steel one’s. You can solve this “problem” your own, by putting the steel-pivotball in the wishbone. So more thread is in the wishbone. Than this will not happen any more.
Stat cool.
02-06-2004, 07:57 AM
#4041
Originally posted by Rene C.
To change the mould that you can adjust the wheelbase would be a big change, we don’t will do such a change. The front bumper has a to hard material. We will change the material and make it a little thicker. So this “problem” should be solved than.
On the lower rear wishbone the pivotball can came out when you have an unlucky hit from behind. That is because the thread of the alu-pivotball’s is shorter than the steel one’s. You can solve this “problem” your own, by putting the steel-pivotball in the wishbone. So more thread is in the wishbone. Than this will not happen any more.
To change the mould that you can adjust the wheelbase would be a big change, we don’t will do such a change. The front bumper has a to hard material. We will change the material and make it a little thicker. So this “problem” should be solved than.
On the lower rear wishbone the pivotball can came out when you have an unlucky hit from behind. That is because the thread of the alu-pivotball’s is shorter than the steel one’s. You can solve this “problem” your own, by putting the steel-pivotball in the wishbone. So more thread is in the wishbone. Than this will not happen any more.
02-06-2004, 08:01 AM
#4042
Originally posted by Craig1
Young Billy talk a look at my new car.
I like to call it a Mirage, because it's not what it appears.
Craig
Young Billy talk a look at my new car.
I like to call it a Mirage, because it's not what it appears.
Craig
That is really reall interesting......any idea what parts required to do that...? From 950R?
Or am I looking at a 950R now......cause you called that "Mirage"...LOL
02-06-2004, 08:23 AM
#4043
Originally posted by Rene C.
Hi Guy’s.
Long time not responding, but I was keep reading and reading and reading,… .
Ok, we have some little problems with the 710, but we are working on solutions.
We will change the rear lower wishbone, the Bumper and body plate. We also will change the rear and front shock tower.
After the Winternats and the Pre-Worlds it could be possible that I will find some more things to change. We have a good and fast car, now lets get rid of the few weak points.
Keep going
Rene
Hi Guy’s.
Long time not responding, but I was keep reading and reading and reading,… .
Ok, we have some little problems with the 710, but we are working on solutions.
We will change the rear lower wishbone, the Bumper and body plate. We also will change the rear and front shock tower.
After the Winternats and the Pre-Worlds it could be possible that I will find some more things to change. We have a good and fast car, now lets get rid of the few weak points.
Keep going
Rene
When you measure droop using the outermost and lowest point on rear knuckles, it would have been different (tweaked) if you were double check the measurement by using one of that lower (in the lower arm) shock holes. I measure mind when it was brand new, so no bend arms what so ever... I do not dare to know why since it drives good until the above statement that you brought up..
Also, what do you mean by body plate? you guys giving me a hard time finding the meanning of "body roll" when we were talking about S705 as it would have been more simple to call it "FLIP"
02-06-2004, 09:00 AM
#4044
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Wow....interesting to see some 835 conversion there, but the more important is.............laydown throttle servo conversion?
That is really reall interesting......any idea what parts required to do that...? From 950R?
Or am I looking at a 950R now......cause you called that "Mirage"...LOL
Wow....interesting to see some 835 conversion there, but the more important is.............laydown throttle servo conversion?
That is really reall interesting......any idea what parts required to do that...? From 950R?
Or am I looking at a 950R now......cause you called that "Mirage"...LOL
Cheers Alastair
02-06-2004, 09:07 AM
#4045
Originally posted by Rene C.
Hi Craig !
You have too much time. Because I know how much time it costs to do things like this. It looks nice.
You did not change the front track-wide?
So the car is rear very wide (like 248mm) and front very small (like 225mm).
How does the car perform against a S835?
Hi Craig !
You have too much time. Because I know how much time it costs to do things like this. It looks nice.
You did not change the front track-wide?
So the car is rear very wide (like 248mm) and front very small (like 225mm).
How does the car perform against a S835?
He has modified the rear and front by using Kyosho parts (I think there kyosho) so he can get the track width correct front and rear. From what he told me on the phone he had to do this so as to avoid the problem you mentioned. It has a custom chassis and radio tray lay down throttle and steering servo as well as other features Craig has incorporated into it.
If I remember correctly from our convo he was less than a second slower than the TQ 835 on the day that was using a group C body where he was using a Sedan shell as we are getting ready for the worlds.
I'm sure Craig will be happy to discuss with you all the mods he's done to get to this stage. The reason for the project was spured on after we spoke to Pieter and he informed us that there wouldn't be a new 235mm chassis before the worlds and Craig wanted to incorporate some of the better features from the 950R and 710 into a 235mm car.
Cheers Alastair
02-06-2004, 09:17 AM
#4046
i burnt two thrust bearing already for the centax. am i the only one having this problem or is there anyone out there who can help me fix it.
i am not really new to centax since i've used it for a year on my mtx-3 and maintained it and never really had such problem.
i am not really new to centax since i've used it for a year on my mtx-3 and maintained it and never really had such problem.
02-06-2004, 10:09 AM
#4048
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by evlhdlts
i burnt two thrust bearing already for the centax. am i the only one having this problem or is there anyone out there who can help me fix it.
i am not really new to centax since i've used it for a year on my mtx-3 and maintained it and never really had such problem.
i burnt two thrust bearing already for the centax. am i the only one having this problem or is there anyone out there who can help me fix it.
i am not really new to centax since i've used it for a year on my mtx-3 and maintained it and never really had such problem.
02-06-2004, 10:46 AM
#4049
i have a .7mm space according to my digital caliper. i believe this is what the book says.
i use graphite grease just like the book said on the first thrust bearing that i blew up. then i switched to white lithium grease which i used to use on my mtx-3 for a whole year and still the second thrust bearing blew up.
so now that i'm gonna install another one, i don't want anymore mistakes... they are quite expensive also.
i use graphite grease just like the book said on the first thrust bearing that i blew up. then i switched to white lithium grease which i used to use on my mtx-3 for a whole year and still the second thrust bearing blew up.
so now that i'm gonna install another one, i don't want anymore mistakes... they are quite expensive also.
