Serpent 710
#2476
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,847
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Originally posted by InitialD
Any engine that will suite your budget will be fine. Even OS engine is good. Slap it with an outlaw inline Shark pipe and see the car flying on the straights ! Remember, no point having too much power when you cannot control it.
Any engine that will suite your budget will be fine. Even OS engine is good. Slap it with an outlaw inline Shark pipe and see the car flying on the straights ! Remember, no point having too much power when you cannot control it.
According to the website,theShark pipes aren't ROAR legal..
Do you guys run into a problem with this?...
Also,Are the pipes THAT good?.....And I presume,only get the outlaw version?(esp since they are not legal anyway?>>)
#2477
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
Originally posted by fastharry
According to the website,theShark pipes aren't ROAR legal..
Do you guys run into a problem with this?...
Also,Are the pipes THAT good?.....And I presume,only get the outlaw version?(esp since they are not legal anyway?>>)
According to the website,theShark pipes aren't ROAR legal..
Do you guys run into a problem with this?...
Also,Are the pipes THAT good?.....And I presume,only get the outlaw version?(esp since they are not legal anyway?>>)
#2478
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Another good way to share your experiences is to have it on your personal website ... and post the url here.
Another good way to share your experiences is to have it on your personal website ... and post the url here.
http://www.markanddebbie.net
When will your site be up and running Sow&Steady?
#2479
Originally posted by InitialD
Thanks to Goldfinger ! He was the one who discovered the problem and posted it here.
Thanks to Goldfinger ! He was the one who discovered the problem and posted it here.
D, please enlight me on who cut what. I think I missed that tip.
#2481
Guest
r12:
The DRS is controlled bump steer. If the track rod in front of the rear arm ( the plastic piece the third pivot ball is attached to) is parelell (sp) to the drive shaft toe will stay the same under suspension movement. If you make the track rod above or below the parelell(sp) line you will either have a decrease or increase in toe as the suspension compresses and extracts. I tried the DRS above the axle at Full Throttle Speedway in Kissimmee Florida and i was very pleased with the results i was able to take the sweeper even faster and i was still able to accelerate hard out of the sharper turns.
The DRS is controlled bump steer. If the track rod in front of the rear arm ( the plastic piece the third pivot ball is attached to) is parelell (sp) to the drive shaft toe will stay the same under suspension movement. If you make the track rod above or below the parelell(sp) line you will either have a decrease or increase in toe as the suspension compresses and extracts. I tried the DRS above the axle at Full Throttle Speedway in Kissimmee Florida and i was very pleased with the results i was able to take the sweeper even faster and i was still able to accelerate hard out of the sharper turns.
#2482
Originally posted by Diesel Racer
That's what I've done with my Impulse, hopefully it should'nt be too long before the 710 joins it.
http://www.markanddebbie.net
When will your site be up and running Sow&Steady?
That's what I've done with my Impulse, hopefully it should'nt be too long before the 710 joins it.
http://www.markanddebbie.net
When will your site be up and running Sow&Steady?
To be honest, I got the idea (where people should have a personal site on their cars and experiences) AFTER surfing your site.
Me? Hmmm ... need to learn a bit of html first and then find a host. I see that this site (RCTech) has a great little hosting (http://www.rctech.net/pages/advertising.shtml ) deal for personal sites ... everyone should look into it.
#2483
Originally posted by redsand
D, please enlight me on who cut what. I think I missed that tip.
D, please enlight me on who cut what. I think I missed that tip.
Ummm, on a side note, I've repeated this a few times already with pics and all. Sorry but I wonder what would happen if I lumped all my replies in one post. People will never get anything !
#2484
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
Originally posted by FTSPEEDWAY
r12:
The DRS is controlled bump steer. If the track rod in front of the rear arm ( the plastic piece the third pivot ball is attached to) is parelell (sp) to the drive shaft toe will stay the same under suspension movement. If you make the track rod above or below the parelell(sp) line you will either have a decrease or increase in toe as the suspension compresses and extracts. I tried the DRS above the axle at Full Throttle Speedway in Kissimmee Florida and i was very pleased with the results i was able to take the sweeper even faster and i was still able to accelerate hard out of the sharper turns.
r12:
The DRS is controlled bump steer. If the track rod in front of the rear arm ( the plastic piece the third pivot ball is attached to) is parelell (sp) to the drive shaft toe will stay the same under suspension movement. If you make the track rod above or below the parelell(sp) line you will either have a decrease or increase in toe as the suspension compresses and extracts. I tried the DRS above the axle at Full Throttle Speedway in Kissimmee Florida and i was very pleased with the results i was able to take the sweeper even faster and i was still able to accelerate hard out of the sharper turns.
#2485
Re: DRS feature
Originally posted by r12 schumacher
how does that work?http://www.mytsn.com/publ/psimage.aspi?pid=9250&psid=3
how does that work?http://www.mytsn.com/publ/psimage.aspi?pid=9250&psid=3
It works like this. There are 3 settings. Neutral (pivot ball level with the rear toe-in linkage), Above (pivot ball above the rear toe-in linkage) and Below (pivot ball below the rear toe-in linkage).
With the Above setting, the rear toes out during acceleration and during cornering. This improves high speed steering. During braking, the rear toes in. Therefore this gives more stable braking. Vice versa for Below setting.
#2486
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
To be honest, I got the idea (where people should have a personal site on their cars and experiences) AFTER surfing your site.
To be honest, I got the idea (where people should have a personal site on their cars and experiences) AFTER surfing your site.
A personal site is more of one party giving and the other party receiving. A forum such as this encourages a free flow of ideas exchanged and opinions expressed.
Of course a personal site eliminates one having to repeat what you have mentioned again and again...
#2487
Originally posted by fastharry
According to the website,theShark pipes aren't ROAR legal..
Do you guys run into a problem with this?...
Also,Are the pipes THAT good?.....And I presume,only get the outlaw version?(esp since they are not legal anyway?>>)
According to the website,theShark pipes aren't ROAR legal..
Do you guys run into a problem with this?...
Also,Are the pipes THAT good?.....And I presume,only get the outlaw version?(esp since they are not legal anyway?>>)
There is actually a 5.2 mm version of the Shark pipe but it's not the inline type. Don't know if this is legal though.
One thing about their performance and the other thing is their durability !
#2488
Originally posted by InitialD
Goldfinger was one of the first to assemble his 710. He mentioned that in order to get the left and right steering throw equal, you need to shorten the linkage from 44.5 mm to 39.5 mm. This is what I did and I'm very well pleased with what I did !
Ummm, on a side note, I've repeated this a few times already with pics and all. Sorry but I wonder what would happen if I lumped all my replies in one post. People will never get anything !
Goldfinger was one of the first to assemble his 710. He mentioned that in order to get the left and right steering throw equal, you need to shorten the linkage from 44.5 mm to 39.5 mm. This is what I did and I'm very well pleased with what I did !
Ummm, on a side note, I've repeated this a few times already with pics and all. Sorry but I wonder what would happen if I lumped all my replies in one post. People will never get anything !
Sorry don't know the english names....
#2489
Originally posted by Thaasman
D, do you allso cut the metal or only the plastic?
Sorry don't know the english names....
D, do you allso cut the metal or only the plastic?
Sorry don't know the english names....
I cut the metal (the stock rod linkage) down to 17 mm. Stock lenght of the rod linkage is 23 mm from tip to tip.
As for the plastic, I trimmed the length of the ball cups. The picture attached shows the top one being the original (and uncut) and the bottom one is the one that was trimmed.
This combo gives the total length of the ball cups and rod linkage assembly as 39.5 mm instead of 44.5 mm.
#2490
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
Re: Re: DRS feature
Originally posted by InitialD
Why? Are you trying to put this on the R12?
It works like this. There are 3 settings. Neutral (pivot ball level with the rear toe-in linkage), Above (pivot ball above the rear toe-in linkage) and Below (pivot ball below the rear toe-in linkage).
With the Above setting, the rear toes out during acceleration and during cornering. This improves high speed steering. During braking, the rear toes in. Therefore this gives more stable braking. Vice versa for Below setting.
Why? Are you trying to put this on the R12?
It works like this. There are 3 settings. Neutral (pivot ball level with the rear toe-in linkage), Above (pivot ball above the rear toe-in linkage) and Below (pivot ball below the rear toe-in linkage).
With the Above setting, the rear toes out during acceleration and during cornering. This improves high speed steering. During braking, the rear toes in. Therefore this gives more stable braking. Vice versa for Below setting.