Serpent 710
08-21-2005, 09:29 PM
Originally Posted by New_Toasted
When I drove last time I noticed that my rear tires were getting conical to the outside, this even with the 3 degree rear camber setting? How far could I go? 4 degrees sound a little extreme to me..
08-21-2005, 09:44 PM
Tech Addict
Trevor-I have been using 40 rears and 45 fronts. I am using a mega motor at the moment with the highest gear ratios possible on the clutch and gearbox. Unfortunately I didn't have a good meeting a couple of weeks ago due to having a flameout in qualifying and also striping the rear belt in the final....
Its been a bit of a pity recently as I have almost always had a blindingly fast car when i go practicing out there, but have a slow car during the race meeting. I think this is cause in practice i usually do a couple of laps, tune the engine, then do some more laps and retune it till its pretty good. On race day you don't get the same opportunities.
Due to Ruapuna being fairly slippery that last qualifying round means everything.
Mike
Its been a bit of a pity recently as I have almost always had a blindingly fast car when i go practicing out there, but have a slow car during the race meeting. I think this is cause in practice i usually do a couple of laps, tune the engine, then do some more laps and retune it till its pretty good. On race day you don't get the same opportunities.
Due to Ruapuna being fairly slippery that last qualifying round means everything.
Mike
08-21-2005, 10:52 PM
Originally Posted by InitialD
The initial idea behind the grub screws was to add weight to give the clutch more punch during engagement. So we decided to try out and put 2 pieces of M3x4 grub screws on each flyweight as per Pyramid's picture. Therefore, one additional hole is drilled on the other side so that the grub screws can be fitted in and balanced out left to right.
BUT then as Pyramid mentioned, the clutch is inconsistant. I find that the clutch engagement sticks after a while as if the clutch is in 1st gear. But then with the grub screws, the punch is the best.
Anyway, I'm now back to using without any grub screws on the flyweights and I find the clutch is very consistant and still punchy when the flyweights are cut and mounted in between the pivot pins... Hope this clears the issue.
BUT then as Pyramid mentioned, the clutch is inconsistant. I find that the clutch engagement sticks after a while as if the clutch is in 1st gear. But then with the grub screws, the punch is the best.
Anyway, I'm now back to using without any grub screws on the flyweights and I find the clutch is very consistant and still punchy when the flyweights are cut and mounted in between the pivot pins... Hope this clears the issue.
thanx initialD for the help... all is crystal clear right now. will try the mod without the grubscrews, hope it works for me too.
08-22-2005, 04:19 AM
Tech Regular
Does http://www.mytsn.com/products/parts.asp?prid=1756 fit in the 710?
Or maybe this one: http://www.mytsn.com/products/parts.asp?prid=1757
Or maybe this one: http://www.mytsn.com/products/parts.asp?prid=1757
08-22-2005, 04:55 AM
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
Does http://www.mytsn.com/products/parts.asp?prid=1756 fit in the 710?
Or maybe this one: http://www.mytsn.com/products/parts.asp?prid=1757
Or maybe this one: http://www.mytsn.com/products/parts.asp?prid=1757
If you're using the new chassis, then you'll have to dremmel some material away, so that the 46T doesn't rub.
Then once you install it, check to see where it rubs on the plastic parts and use a dremmel on those parts until the diff rotates freely.
I would just wait a little if I were you, though
Cheers, Mark.
08-22-2005, 05:30 AM
I know this question has been posted many times but i can't seem to find an answer... 
I have just finished running in my MEGA and it has loads of torque. I read in the Mega forum that the pre tension on the clutch has to be set to around 1.8mm to 2mm. I did exactly that and find that it gives the car very good pick up for the first 1 minute and then starts to feel a little soft after. I tried 1.5mm and it was worse. The clutch felt like it was engaging too early and only picked up speed after 3-4 meters.
Would a bigger clutch gap help?...I can't tighten the pre-tension any further than 2mm...it's maxed out.
My setup...yellow shoes, fly weights in between pins, 705 centax springs and 0.7mm gap with little to no end play.
HELLLPP!!!
I have just finished running in my MEGA and it has loads of torque. I read in the Mega forum that the pre tension on the clutch has to be set to around 1.8mm to 2mm. I did exactly that and find that it gives the car very good pick up for the first 1 minute and then starts to feel a little soft after. I tried 1.5mm and it was worse. The clutch felt like it was engaging too early and only picked up speed after 3-4 meters. Would a bigger clutch gap help?...I can't tighten the pre-tension any further than 2mm...it's maxed out.
My setup...yellow shoes, fly weights in between pins, 705 centax springs and 0.7mm gap with little to no end play.
HELLLPP!!!
08-22-2005, 07:12 AM
Tech Rookie
"I did exactly that and find that it gives the car very good pick up for the first 1 minute and then starts to feel a little soft after"
as you know engine temp. effects to clutch temp. and it could cause to change your clutch setup. if you use this could be better:
http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=3431
by the way, i have yellow clutch shoe. recently i see some sticky black things on my clutch shoe where the it touches to clutch housing. should i sand it or doesn't make problem?
as you know engine temp. effects to clutch temp. and it could cause to change your clutch setup. if you use this could be better:
http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=3431
by the way, i have yellow clutch shoe. recently i see some sticky black things on my clutch shoe where the it touches to clutch housing. should i sand it or doesn't make problem?
08-22-2005, 07:39 AM
question regarding centax II
I got a question regarding the centax II:
Would I get a better punch when I use the 909515 Centax II centrifugal shoes?
And I am also thinking of buying the 909513 centax II clutch housing light. Our track is sometimes dusty when not used during the week. Would it cause any problem for the shoes using this housing as this housing is rather open to dust etc. as it has more holes on it?
Thanks for the answers.
Alp Hamzagil
Would I get a better punch when I use the 909515 Centax II centrifugal shoes?
And I am also thinking of buying the 909513 centax II clutch housing light. Our track is sometimes dusty when not used during the week. Would it cause any problem for the shoes using this housing as this housing is rather open to dust etc. as it has more holes on it?
Thanks for the answers.
Alp Hamzagil
08-22-2005, 07:44 AM
Tech Rookie
Q for Julius
Julius
Great race at Euros, congrats. Can you post your setup improvements in this race and your ideas why you did it in this race? (What did you try?).
Thkx
Great race at Euros, congrats. Can you post your setup improvements in this race and your ideas why you did it in this race? (What did you try?).
Thkx
08-22-2005, 08:29 AM
Originally Posted by crashed_1
I know this question has been posted many times but i can't seem to find an answer... HELLLPP!!!
HELLLPP!!! 
08-22-2005, 09:07 AM
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by markp27
It does, you need to modifiy the diff housing a little, though. The part 801375 needs to be machined back 6mm, so that it fits into the rear. You also need to shorten the 801385 also by 6mm and put a flat spot on the shaft so that the grub screw will old the adaptor tight.
If you're using the new chassis, then you'll have to dremmel some material away, so that the 46T doesn't rub.
Then once you install it, check to see where it rubs on the plastic parts and use a dremmel on those parts until the diff rotates freely.
I would just wait a little if I were you, though
Cheers, Mark.
If you're using the new chassis, then you'll have to dremmel some material away, so that the 46T doesn't rub.
Then once you install it, check to see where it rubs on the plastic parts and use a dremmel on those parts until the diff rotates freely.
I would just wait a little if I were you, though
Cheers, Mark.
Heh, lol, you have been trying mister! :-)
thanks for the help, i'll just wait idd
08-22-2005, 09:49 AM
Tech Initiate
Originally Posted by InitialD
Overdrive means front pulling the rear. Underdrive means rear pushing the front. The numbers less than 1 is underdrive while numbers more than 1 is overdrive.
By default, you need about 1mm smaller front tires so that the overdrive ratio is 1:1 (which mean no underdrive or overdrive) on the 710. This means the tire rollout the front tires produce (1mm less in diameter than the rear tires) is equal to the tire rollout the rear tires produce.
For long races, you may want to use a little more underdrive like 2 or even 3mm smaller front tires so that by the end of a long main, your front and rear tires would come back in wearing in equal diameters.
BTW, do you know that you can change the default overdrives on the car by using the new optional 21T front side aluminum pulley or use a slightly bigger 46T rear diff pulley (stock 45T) from the Serpent 705?
By default, you need about 1mm smaller front tires so that the overdrive ratio is 1:1 (which mean no underdrive or overdrive) on the 710. This means the tire rollout the front tires produce (1mm less in diameter than the rear tires) is equal to the tire rollout the rear tires produce.
For long races, you may want to use a little more underdrive like 2 or even 3mm smaller front tires so that by the end of a long main, your front and rear tires would come back in wearing in equal diameters.
BTW, do you know that you can change the default overdrives on the car by using the new optional 21T front side aluminum pulley or use a slightly bigger 46T rear diff pulley (stock 45T) from the Serpent 705?
08-22-2005, 10:06 AM
Who makes....
Who makes the blade type rear sway bar for the 710? Also is there a place to pick up any setups for the 710? Thanks! Please email me: [email protected]
Last edited by TShirt Man; 08-22-2005 at 01:13 PM.
08-22-2005, 11:00 AM
Tech Rookie
Settings
[I did exactly that and find that it gives the car very good pick up for the first 1 minute and then starts to feel a little soft after. I tried 1.5mm and it was worse. The clutch felt like it was engaging too early and only picked up speed after 3-4 meters.
This is usually a too lean Low Speed needle setting- or too lean overall. Motor heats up and then grunt disapears. There seems to be some confusion about the motor. It has no low speed power.
All the power is mid to top rpm- that is why you need to run a tight clutch. Also needed is a very short first gear to get you moving and the rpm up. Then with the right shift point into 2nd it will pull a long 2nd gear and take off like a scalded cat. (2607 pipe)
The fact that the clutch engags at a higher rpm which is in the powerband of the motor makes it feel like it has a lot of low speed (but not rpm) power.
The low speed needle seems to need to be about 1.5 - 2mm out of the slide. Or use the 5 second pinch test mentioned in the zx12 forum.
This is usually a too lean Low Speed needle setting- or too lean overall. Motor heats up and then grunt disapears. There seems to be some confusion about the motor. It has no low speed power.
All the power is mid to top rpm- that is why you need to run a tight clutch. Also needed is a very short first gear to get you moving and the rpm up. Then with the right shift point into 2nd it will pull a long 2nd gear and take off like a scalded cat. (2607 pipe)
The fact that the clutch engags at a higher rpm which is in the powerband of the motor makes it feel like it has a lot of low speed (but not rpm) power.
The low speed needle seems to need to be about 1.5 - 2mm out of the slide. Or use the 5 second pinch test mentioned in the zx12 forum.
08-22-2005, 11:55 AM
Tech Regular
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: The Milkyway/Planet Earth/Europe/Sweden/Skåne/Malmö
Posts: 349
Originally Posted by Raycer
What's the handling difference between Under/Over drive....tks