Serpent 710
05-19-2005, 08:23 PM
Originally posted by Darth Vader
One of the most shear resistant lubricants that I have come across is auto transmission fluid. I think this would work really well at areas where there is high shear like dogbones and gears, etc.
I have yet to try it in r/c though...
One of the most shear resistant lubricants that I have come across is auto transmission fluid. I think this would work really well at areas where there is high shear like dogbones and gears, etc.
I have yet to try it in r/c though...
05-19-2005, 08:40 PM
Originally posted by Darth Vader
One of the most shear resistant lubricants that I have come across is auto transmission fluid. I think this would work really well at areas where there is high shear like dogbones and gears, etc.
I have yet to try it in r/c though...
One of the most shear resistant lubricants that I have come across is auto transmission fluid. I think this would work really well at areas where there is high shear like dogbones and gears, etc.
I have yet to try it in r/c though...
05-19-2005, 10:31 PM
I always use ATF in my engine, its cheap and does the job.
05-19-2005, 11:27 PM
Could someone explain to me how the DRS system work? sorry im new here >_<;
05-20-2005, 01:10 AM
Re: Help! Engine Screws
Originally posted by fulcrum2
Hi there!
I have a serious problem with my engine mount screws (under the chassis) M4x10 #802551
I can´t open two of them. Having them fastened by hand with a Hudy driver and no threadlock a couple of weeks ago, I can´t open two of them with the same driver!
The driver is already broken and the screwheads are badly damaged by now. Here are my questions:
How could this happen? Is the heat of the engine seizing the screws in the chassis?
What can I do to prevent this from happening in the future?
And the most important question, how can I get those screws out?
Drilling? Cut a groove in the head and use a flathead screwdriver? Weld another screw or tool to the heads?
What has worked for you?
Andy advice would be appreciated...
Hi there!
I have a serious problem with my engine mount screws (under the chassis) M4x10 #802551
I can´t open two of them. Having them fastened by hand with a Hudy driver and no threadlock a couple of weeks ago, I can´t open two of them with the same driver!
The driver is already broken and the screwheads are badly damaged by now. Here are my questions:
How could this happen? Is the heat of the engine seizing the screws in the chassis?
What can I do to prevent this from happening in the future?
And the most important question, how can I get those screws out?
Drilling? Cut a groove in the head and use a flathead screwdriver? Weld another screw or tool to the heads?
What has worked for you?
Andy advice would be appreciated...
If in the case next time you are unable to open again you might need someone to hold the car for you so that you can keep the hudy screw driver perppendicular and apply as amuch as down pressure you can to open it.
05-20-2005, 01:25 AM
Originally posted by redsand
Speaking of the grease for all around use. I have found this Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube at Ace Hardware and used it by spraying it on the balls, diff plates, dog bone tips & wheel axles with a very very good results.
[IMG]Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube[/IMG]
Speaking of the grease for all around use. I have found this Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube at Ace Hardware and used it by spraying it on the balls, diff plates, dog bone tips & wheel axles with a very very good results.
[IMG]Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube[/IMG]
05-20-2005, 01:46 AM
Originally posted by Darth Vader
One of the most shear resistant lubricants that I have come across is auto transmission fluid. I think this would work really well at areas where there is high shear like dogbones and gears, etc.
I have yet to try it in r/c though...
One of the most shear resistant lubricants that I have come across is auto transmission fluid. I think this would work really well at areas where there is high shear like dogbones and gears, etc.
I have yet to try it in r/c though...
05-20-2005, 03:22 AM
Originally posted by acutts
My old man is an industrial chemist and has worked for all the major oil companies developing lubricants and he swears by ATF .... I use this for most things as well.......
My old man is an industrial chemist and has worked for all the major oil companies developing lubricants and he swears by ATF .... I use this for most things as well.......
05-20-2005, 07:06 AM
Will do ... I'll give him a call this weekend ..!
05-20-2005, 02:33 PM
Originally posted by ogreasurada
Could someone explain to me how the DRS system work? sorry im new here >_<;
Could someone explain to me how the DRS system work? sorry im new here >_<;
05-20-2005, 04:56 PM
I am thinking about getting either V1RRR WCE or Serpent 710. I am out for many yrs, and trying to get back in it. I have picked the motor and radio:
OS 12TZ(p) T5 and 3pk and KO 2364 servos. All opinions are welcomed. Also, which shop offers the lowest price ? Thx.
OS 12TZ(p) T5 and 3pk and KO 2364 servos. All opinions are welcomed. Also, which shop offers the lowest price ? Thx.
05-21-2005, 01:19 AM
I know its along way off, but already starting to think about the Worlds and Pre-Worlds. I don't know what my chances are to qualify, but want to try and get to the Pre-Worlds at least if I don't.
Anyone else planning on going? Had a run on the track? Got a set up?
Anyone else planning on going? Had a run on the track? Got a set up?
05-21-2005, 02:01 AM
Originally posted by silverM3
I am thinking about getting either V1RRR WCE or Serpent 710. I am out for many yrs, and trying to get back in it. I have picked the motor and radio:
OS 12TZ(p) T5 and 3pk and KO 2364 servos. All opinions are welcomed. Also, which shop offers the lowest price ? Thx.
I am thinking about getting either V1RRR WCE or Serpent 710. I am out for many yrs, and trying to get back in it. I have picked the motor and radio:
OS 12TZ(p) T5 and 3pk and KO 2364 servos. All opinions are welcomed. Also, which shop offers the lowest price ? Thx.
05-21-2005, 02:02 AM
Originally posted by Greg M
I know its along way off, but already starting to think about the Worlds and Pre-Worlds. I don't know what my chances are to qualify, but want to try and get to the Pre-Worlds at least if I don't.
Anyone else planning on going? Had a run on the track? Got a set up?
I know its along way off, but already starting to think about the Worlds and Pre-Worlds. I don't know what my chances are to qualify, but want to try and get to the Pre-Worlds at least if I don't.
Anyone else planning on going? Had a run on the track? Got a set up?
05-21-2005, 02:06 AM
Thats the plan, but comes down to $$, a house is a priority, but this is a once in a life time opportunity. I should definately be at the pre worlds. Big problem for us is our qualifying, so far there isn't one, so looks like a CV approach is going to be used. I have only just got into 1/10 and the only big meetings including the Nationals I ran a CD3 and barely finished a race. The 710 is a different story and was swapping the lead with the national champ until my battery pack died last weekend. I just need to get as much track time and prove to the national body that I should go to the worlds.